LS RX8 Build - Project Norito

Smol Update

I got the ABS wired up. I have no idea if it works but it seems correct. I am getting better at reading wiring diagrams. I am waiting on a new firewall shield before I do the lines for the master cylinder as the booster needs to be out of the way for that to be installed. The previous owner had removed most of it as it looked like mice ate it.

Still need to clean out the unused wires.


I also decided to re-enforce the clutch pedal as that is a common issue even on a stock rx8 where the pedal bends which seems to be an issue on speeds too. I found out my 100$ welder was just not enough to get good penetration so I went out and bought a nicer one. It has been on my list for forever to get a decent welder and I had wired my garage for 100 amp service many yeas ago.

Once I get the Nema 6-50 Receptacle installed I can plug the welder in and start playing with it. I bought the Klutch Dual Voltage 200 Amp MIG/Flux-Core/TIG/Stick Multi-Process 4-in-1 Welder with Inverter Technology, 120/230 Volts, 240 Amp Max., Mig Ready as it was on sale and does everything I need plus Northern Tool is local. It also seems to be identical to the TITANIUM UNLIMITED 200 Professional Multiprocess Welder with 120/240V Input but for a lot less. I plan to use flux core for right now but will get some gas and better stuff when I do the exhaust.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/nielex-clutch-bracket-gusset-roadster-ncec-rx-8-se3p.html



I also replaced the bushings with 1/4" brake like which I did on the speed as well. I could probably 3d print some but I don't have a printer.

 

For cables with multiple wires, might want to offset the splices so you dont end up with a big ol bulge.

Are you using the heat shrink with adhesive/sealant inside?

 

Yeah I was going to do that but this bundle was already YUGE from the factory and I did not have a ton of wire to work with from the connector. I will try and do that more to make the other harness stuff a little sleeker.

 

Update:

Brakes are done. I was able to bleed them and so far no serious leaks. It did leak a little at first, some fittings needed tightened but it all seems good now. I also installed a line lock for umm.... hill starts....

Seems like the pedal is solid and brakes work, hopefully the ABS works well when the car is running. This was a ton of work and brakes are annoying so I am glad this is done.



Before I completed the brakes I got a new firewall cover as the OEM one was eaten by mice. I then was able to install the clutch pedal and new clutch master.

I was not impressed with this kit from https://www.ls1rx8.com/store/c23/Clutch.html
The bolts they sent were too short and would only grabbed a few threads and the studs they sent were just all thread and flopped around. I ended up making my own hardware out of stainless bolts I had and it worked a lot better.



This was also pretty dumb as the arm is just barely long enough to still be threaded and attach to the pedal under the dash. It should be fine as it is only pushing force and there is a locking nut but for the cost of this kit it should have been a lot better.


Here it is with the pedal re-installed. Hopefully it works without issues.



I also picked up a new radiator.


Now I am ready to put the motor in. The CX kit came with 0 directions and pretty sure I need to buy some more bolts. I believe I need to trim the motor mounts.


I also added some heat shielding to the tunnel.

 

Update:

None of the cxracing stuff came with any instructions so it has been slow going. I am also waiting on a reply from v8raodsters because there was a crucial part needed for the remote bleeder on the slave and it was just not in the kit. I am pretty upset with their kit being so half assed with no instructions and their slow response time. It was not a cheap kit. I am also finding out just how tricky a swap can be and how simply buying bolts can add up money wise pretty quick. The bolts I needed for the rack were 7$ each.

I spent most of the day Saturday getting the steering working. I also got the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel installed.

• Bearing "came with clutch" installed and flush.
• ARP 1342201 Hex Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
• ARP 3302802 Pro Series Flywheel Bolt Kit
• - LS Flywheel Locking Tool Steel Black
• Bellhousing came with the trans
• Diamond Stage 2 LSX Clutch Kit "these guys have been really helpful and seem to actually care about their customers"

It took me a while to figure out how to mount the engine to the lift without using a ton of chain as I wanted decent height so I can lift the trans and engine together.



I decided to test the starter because that was another unknown of what part actually works with this setup. Thankfully it worked fine.


Discount Starter & ALTERNATOR Starter Compatible with/Replacement for Chevrolet Corvette 1997-2004, Camaro 1998-2004, Pontiac Firebird 1998-2002 323-1063, 336-1922, 323-1450, 336-1922, SR8581N



I also noticed a space here and was wondering if something was wrong. It looks like OEM has a plastic dust shield that fits there. Will probably order that at some point.
ACDelco GM Genuine Parts 24261712 Engine Starter Opening Cover


On the car you are meant to install the motor mounts where the steering rack used to sit.

The center hole needs to be opened up a little. If not you will destroy the threads on your spendy m12x1.25 fine thread bolts. "ask me how I know, only one was lost lol" Ace hardware had everything I needed. I will need to tq this all down "maybe 65ft lbs" once the engine is in place and it all looks right.


CX sells a power steering shaft extension. It is way longer than it needs to be. I ended up using my portable band saw and cutting it down. I then had to grind a spot down on it so that the OEM bolt going through would not catch up on it. The OEM rod is already ground down on that side. Wish I would have seen it sooner as I almost ruined the OEM threads. But I got it sorted.


The collar works but sliding up the OEM shaft and then onto the new shaft, once it is in place you can put the locking bolts in.

I was really worried about screwing up the steering alignment but the rod has 2 big and 1 narrow spot on it which makes it so it can only really be aligned one way.

Now that the steering rack is lower I will need to address the angle of the rack to the hubs. They make a kit to drop them but it is like 250$ and I feel like that is overkill and I might be able to make something work. We will see.


Now that I have all this in place I was ready to mate the trans to the engine and drop it in to see how it fit. Well that did not happen thanks to v8roadsters quality control striking again.

The kit included almost all the parts I needed but was missing the bleeder adapter so that I can hookup the remote bleeder. Without this piece I can't attach the trans to the engine and mount it because there will be no access after that. I emailed them to let them know and I have not had a response yet. Really glad to have spent a bunch of money of a half assed kit.

In the pic the bolt I am pointing to goes on the wilwood master. The bolt with the with the rubber seal goes into the slave after you punch the pin out and pull the OEM part off.



Now for the throw out bearing "slave cylinder"

With the GM fbody LS throw out bearing you need to check for proper clearance whenever you install a non OEM clutch,PP and flywheel.

This video explains it well.
I went through it all and even emailed the company to confirm and it looks like I will need 0.200" of shims. Lucky for me I ordered the shim pack with the clutch disk so I have 2 shims that will be me very close to that.

The bolts needed to attach the TOB are M6x1 between 30-20mm depending on your needs.

Dog Tax, Samus is getting old and having trouble walking. Not sure how many days she has left.

 

Forgot to mention I also had to trim down the motor mounts as they were hitting the alternator and also just way wider than needed. At least I hope from all the pics I looked at they used the last bolt holes and theirs were trimmed too.

 

Update - 2 steps forward 1 step back

I finally got the piece I needed from v8roadsters and their email reply was less than satisfactory. I also decided I did not really like the way they did it with a copper washer and would rather use a bleeder fitting that actually fits the slave "throw out bearing".

This comes with a speed bleeder on it as well. It fit perfect.
Tick Performance TPSBL Clutch Speed Bleeder Line 1998-2002 F-Body/2004-2006 GTO/C5 Corvette

I had the bellhousing on the engine and could not get the trans to sit right. I tried a lot of wiggling but it did not seem like it was aligned.


I could see the pins were not lining up and it seemed like the trans was crooked no matter what I did.


I thought maybe something was wrong and the more I looked at it the more it seemed like it was getting caught on something and not seating all the way. I decided to take it all apart and take the pressure plate off. This allowed me to use the transmission to align the clutch disc and pressure plate instead of the plastic tool. I would 1000% recommend one of the steal/billet alignment tools if you are going to do this job in a car.

This did it and I was able to finally seat the trans in the bearing all the way. It still took some time as it would snag on the bearing if it was not in the right alignment. I made sure not to force anything too hard as all these threads are aluminum and can not take too much of a beating.

I ended up putting the bellhousing on the trans and then seating the trans to the motor and once it was fully seated I walked it on with the bolts from the trans to the engine. I was very careful not too send it and only tighten them if it felt like it was moving which it was. I had also lubed the dowel pins with a little silicone.

Success! Still need to tq down and do all the bolts but they are now together.


Another fun things is that the kit to get the mazda AC to work with this motor does not fit with the CXracing motor mounts.

So I am trying some random stuff to see. This is not a deal breaker but would be really nice to have. I might have to fab my own mount or see if I can swap the pulley to fit the main drive belt. I really have no idea yet and these are just some random thoughts. The LS harmonic balancer has a front and back belt area.

 

Cant you just put the bracket between the condenser and motor? Do those holes go all the way through?

 

Yeah I could do that and looked at it, the bigger issues is that it might not fit in the car sitting that far out and when you have it that far out you start to need a tensioner pulley as the belt will just flop around. I think once it is in the car I will have a better idea. This might end up on the list of nice to have once the car is already running.

 

Update:

I swapped out the shifter for the Sikky T56 Magnum F Upgrade Short Throw Shifter. I didn't really care about short shifts but I did need the offset feature so I can line it up when it is on the car. I think I will need the 3" but I am not totally sure about that yet.




I then decided it was time to put the engine in. It took some work and wiggling but eventually it found its home. I did have some issues with clearance on the pinch welds in the back and I did have to bend the heater core hose a little to clear the valve cover. I wish I would have known about the clearance before I got the motor in place but I was able to clean it up. I will have to move the oem fuel line and evap line. I am still not sure if I need to move the rear brake lines.






You can see where it is hitting the valve cover and the engine is touching the pinch weld. I was able to use a punch and hammer to bend it enough to clear. The brake line for the passenger front is pretty close too so I might have to modify it. I really should have waited on bleed the bakes until this was all done as I will have to do it all again.


This side was practically sitting on the pinch weld and needs clearance for the headers.


Bent the outlet.


I started cutting into the pinch weld with my m12 Milwaukee sawzall and a long 18t blade. I also have a small belt sander which I will use to clean it up more. If I ever pull the motor again I will clean it up more and probably weld the seam there, for now it will be jbweld. The brake lines here might still be too close. You can see I bent the fuel and evap line down. I have no idea where the evap will need to go yet. I plan to use compression to barb fittings on them and use some of the nicer gates ethanol safe fuel hose. I used it on my mazda and it worked great.


Next steps are to check clearance with all the things "headers". Make sure brakes work and won't start on fire. and then start wiring/accessories. I still need to mount the trans to the power plant frame as right now it is just sitting on a trans jack. I will also need to order a driveshaft and deal with the cooling. Still tons to do but slowly getting there. I did need two people to help get the motor aligned into the motor mounts which took quite a while but we got it eventually.

 

Small Update:

I got the brake lines fixed up. Had to redo both the rear lines as they were too close to the header and hitting it. I decided to replace the rubber lines as I needed to bleed the entire system again. I ordered "04-11 Mazda RX-8 FRONT + REAR Techna-Fit Stainless Braided Steel Brake Lines"

I used some rubber hose to isolate the lines and keep the from rubbing the body.



Pretty happy with how it turned out. It def takes a while to do this stuff and make it look decent.


These are the stainless lines I ordered. They fit without much issues. I did have to wire wheel the underside of the old lines a bit to get them to seat in the car mounts "full of grease and dirt" as the nut on the end slides in and keeps it from rotating.


I also made a mount for the clutch feed and bleeder lines.


So far this has been going well but slow. Every time I get a little further I realize I need to modify or change something to do it right and not have to fix later. I am trying not too get too carried away with the "while I'm in here" mods but I also want to do it right.

I also made a hole to run the wires to the ECU in the passenger area. This worked great and is pretty easy to get to from under the dash.


I did have to massage the passenger brake line more to clear the header and beat up the edge more so that the spark plug wire fits. I would advise doing this all before the motor is in but some of it you just have no idea until it is there.

I decided to make a guide for anyone else doing this.

Green - Pinch welds need to be almost flat, the back side closest to the firewall might need to be cut and welded or jbwelded.
Pink - Pinch welds bend and hammered but don't need to be super flat just more out of the way
Yellow - Need bent out of the way
Red - All of the lines are in the way of the exhaust header and need to be relocated. "fuel, evap, both rear brake lines"

 

Outstanding work!

 

Hell yeah!

 

Update:

Parts in this post

• https://www.cxracing.com/engine-swap-kit-mazda-rx-8-ls1/ESK-RX8-SWAYB
• https://www.cxracing.com/engine-swap-kit-mazda-rx-8-ls1/ESK-RX8-TORSIONB
• GM Genuine Parts 12625031 Engine Oil Dipstick Tube , Black
• No.12669528 / Engine/Oil Dipstick for Chevrolet Camaro 2010-2015 for Chevrolet Caprice 2011-2017 / Oil Level Dipstick/Durable/Metal / 1 Pc/Silver Tone
• Lowdoller Motorsports 100 PSI Pressure Sensor - Fuel/Oil/Coolant Pressure PN: 7990100 "Bought 2 , one for fuel pressure one for oil pressure"
• Analog Fluid Temp Sensor 1/8” NPT 0-300°F (1:1 Replacement for Racepak™ 810-TR-300) "goes on oil cooler thermostat"
• Improved Racing - Low-Profile Oil Cooler Thermostat for LS Engines "the allen bolts they sent were a little short and I almost stripped the oil pan, get some that are like 4mm longer and test fit it" Tq to 8 ft lbs
• 2 PACK M18 X 1.5 Universal Fit with 304 Stainless Steel Sensor Plug "plug 2nd oil cooler"
• EVIL ENERGY 10AN PTFE Fuel Line Kit 16FT, AN10 E85 Braided PTFE Fuel Hose Line Kit PTFE Hose Black "oil cooler lines replace o rings with crush washers"
• YXQ 20Pcs 18x24x1.5mm Copper Crush Washer Flat Ring Seal Gasket Fitting M18
  
• EVIL ENERGY 10AN Male Flare to M18 x 1.5mm Male Metric Fitting Adapter Aluminium Alloy 2PCS "for rx8 oil cooler"
  
• 2 PCS Stainless Steel Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter for GM LS Series Engines LS1 LSX LS3 5.3L 6.0L 6.2L M16 1.5 "for oil pressure on top of block and can be used to do oil prime"
  
• NGK 3186 Spark Plug
• GM GENUINE 19431551 Spark Plug Wire
• Spark Plug Wire Heat Shield Sleeve 2500° Spark Plug Boot Protector Wire Boots Wrap for SBC BBC 350 454 8PCS Spark Plug Wire Covers
  
• LS Coil Brackets 19005218 D585 Heat Sink (compatible with LSA LS9 Valve Cover
  
• 2* Engine Valve Covers for 09-15 Cadillac CTS Chevy Corvette Camaro LS9/LSA 6.2L
  
• Huepar Laser Level 360 Self Leveling, 3 x 360° High Brightness Cross Line Laser
  
• A-Team Performance - 010455 Heat Shroud Aluminized Sleeving - for Ultimate Heat Shield Protection Barrier Cover - with Hook and Loop Closure Silver 3/4"x36" (3ft)

Started putting plugs and wires on but ended up having to loosen the exhaust manifold so I could slide it back a little to get clearance on a spark plug. Going to cover them in heat sleaves as well.


Installed the dipstick, had to bend it a little but it fits fine. Might get a nicer looking one at some point but this will do for now and it mounts to the factory bolt spot.


Sway Bar
Installed the Front Sway Bar. It was actually not too bad once I puzzled together how it all fits. My only issue was that the MEVOTECH sway bar links are dumb and one side was a different bolt size than the other "I am guessing changes in the model" They look the same otherwise but next time I won't be buying them and just stick to moog.
You will need some bolts to mount it to the frame rail and the existing spot where the old end link used to sit. "these are not included along with 0 instructions from cxracing"
You can also see that the steering needs a bump steer kit which I am trying to figure out a cheap way to remedy.



Trans and Difff
I also got the trans aligned with the rear diff and PPF installed and modified. I did have to cut the hole bigger as there is an OEM bolt that sticks down and was preventing the trans for getting to the right spot. I will make a cover for this hole at some point. I know it is not pretty but it works.


I am sure the laser was overkill but it helped me to feel better about where everything was landing. I had it from my basement remodel and it has been really helpful for a lot of stuff.

The cxracing kit keeps the PPF which needs to have some holes drilled to mount the piece that connects a busing to the brace in the trans tunnel. If I ever go with a ford rear diff this will need to be deleted. I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts. I also used whatever random bolts they send with the kit. This is a big process of putting it in and moving stuff around before final tightening and it takes time.




This is the new brace that sits on a bushing and replaces an factory rx8 brace.



This sensor needs to be clocked out of the way. It is pretty easy to remove.


This sensor is very tight to to the firewall.

Oil Cooler

This is optional and probably overkill but I wanted oil temp and this seemed like a good solution to clear the headers and the rx8 manual has two oil coolers from the factory so I can use one "maybe two eventually" I plan to autocross the car and do other stuff for fun so figured this would not hurt. Lines were not super hard to make but I did use the vice with the AN jaws. I also used a chop saw to cut the line which seemed the best and fastest. The lines have a decent amount of slack so I can position them if needed from the radiator or other things. I kept them tight to the block to clear the headers and I am going to cover them in heatshield once I confirm they are not leaking.

 

Damn that's a ton to get done.

Bet almost $60 on dipstick tube and dipstick wasn't in the budget spreadsheet

 

Yeah I am pretty sure I have spent over 150$ on various bolts too "not even engine arp stuff". It all adds up for sure.

 

Might I suggest these for the doggo?

https://lasersafety.com/resources/laser-safety-by-industry/veterinary/laser-doggles/

 

LOL They are fine, they were in there for a bit when I took the pic and then I kicked him out. It's a class 2 laser so I am not super worried.

 

Fuel Pump

I am still not totally sure on how to handle the fuel. I have seen people run a return and no return. I have seen them add an LS regulator but then idk what they did with the rx8 regulator that is in the basket. I had a spare fuel pump from the speed3 sitting around and it is rated for 340 lph so I figured I would try it. QFS-344ft. It fits in the basket and seems like it should work fine. I did need to order a fuel line.

Plan is to just run the pump with the rx8 regulator and dead head it for now. I kept the OEM filter as I did not have a new one and it was in good shape.

Parts Used

• QFS-344FT-1026 340LPH Direct-Fit Fuel Pump OEM Replacement
• 5/16" (8mm) x 6" (150mm) In Tank Submersible Fuel Corrugated Flexible Hose Line for Fuel Pump Assembly E-85 Safe Compatible

I tried using boiling water to heat the line up enough to seat it and I was able to get it on the pump that way but I had to use my heat gun very gently to get it on the barbed side on the basket. I added clamps but I doubt they are even needed.

 

Battery

This video was helpful and got me off to a good start.

Battery Trunk Relocation and Coilover Install on Your Mazda RX8!

Parts Used

• Marine Bus Bar 12V 250A Power Distribution Block 12 Volt DC Busbar 3/8" Dual Studs Battery Bus Bar for Boat Automotive Solar System
• Heat Shield Sleeve 1/2" IDX10' Fuel Line Auto Hose Spark Plug Wire Heat Protectors Roll 2500 Degree for Car&Auto Wire Loom Brake Cable
  
• BOJACK MEGA/AMG High Current Fuse Bolt-on Fuse 250A Amp for Cars, Trucks, Construction Vehicles, Buses, Caravans (Pack of 2 ANM Fuses 250A)
  
• AMG MEGA Fuse Holder (Pack of 2)
  
• Used for Engine Bay Wiring - 2 Gauge 2 AWG 10 Feet Red + 10 Feet Black Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable + 10pcs of 3/8" Tinned Copper Cable Lug Terminal Connectors + 3 Feet Black Heat Shrink Tubing
• Used for battery to trunk to engine bay - 1/0 Gauge 1/0 AWG 15 Feet Red + 15 Feet Black Welding Battery Pure Copper Flexible Cable + 10pcs of 3/8" Tinned Copper Cable Lug Terminal Connectors + 3 Feet Black Heat Shrink Tubing
• Battery Terminal Connectors Kit, Heavy Duty Positive Negative Auto Car Marine Terminals, with 4 Pcs 2 Gauge 3/8" Copper Lugs, 4 Heatshrink Tubes, 2 Protective Covers and 2 Anti Corrosion Washers
• Joinfworld Bus Bar 250A 12V Power Distribution Block with 3 x 3/8"(M10) Studs Marine Bus Bar Terminal Block 12 Volt DC Battery Busbar with Cover - Negative&Positive
  
• OPTIMA Batteries High Performance D34/78 YellowTop Dual Purpose Sealed AGM Car, Truck and SUV Battery, 750 CCA, Dual Terminal, Maintenance Free, Versitile Mounting
  
• Billet Aluminum Battery Pallet - Trunk Battery Hold Down Bracket Perfectly Compatible with Racing Trunk Optima Batteries Tray Blue Yellow Red Top 34M D34M D34 D34/78 34 34/78
  

I ended up putting 2 riv nuts into the frame and then the 4 others into the body. It is very secure. I added washers and some black rtv to seal the body ones.




I have a hydraulic crimping tool from harbor freight that makes it very easy to make large cables.


You can see here where the + and - land in the bay. I decided to do bus bars so that I can supply the rest of the stuff that is needed with more of a direct battery power. I plan to wire the starter right on top of the hot from the battery as it will pull the most juice.


The RX8 had a suprising amount of room to run the wires. I re-wrapped the oem wires after taking it apart and then was able to fit the - and + and all the trim back.


I got a little ground crazy in the bay but have heard horror stories of bad grounds so I did not want to play those games. I used 2awg for all the grounds which is overkill but it will work great.

List of grounds - I tested these all with my multimeter

Battery - Trunk Frame

Bus Bar - Passenger Head
Bus Bar - Passenger Frame
Bus Bar - Above Starter

Driver Head - Driver Body
Above Alternator - Driver Frame