My 2008.5 BM MS3 Build

slowly chipping away at the odds and ends that need to get done before I can get the car started up and tuned. Threw the RPF1's back on. Also put on the new powdercoated stuff. Got the Valve cover, intake cam cap, Fuel hard line, and CDFP part of the fuel pump done in illusion blue. Now I'm just hooking up hoses and boost lines to get everything finished. I think it should start this week. I'm welding up the downpipe tonight. Also got the 6-point harness set up the way I like it.
PICTARS!

 

DP and test pipe came together last night and will be finished tomorrow after I measure and cut the last straight I need to mate the two pieces together.

 

So the car is ready to start. I got a start up tune from Sho but the car turns over strong for a couple seconds then it gets weaker and weaker. I'm thinking the battery has just sat there in the trunk for long enough to not have enough juice to turn the car over fast enough to get her to fire up. She is trying to start though. The AP says the car has about 12.5 volts from the battery which is normal. But the car will turn over for a few seconds then cut power to itself but won't trip the breaker I have attached to the battery. Any ideas?

 

Well car is running now! The issue I was having above was not the battery, but the split second controller for the 6th port came default to be spraying. I forgot to zero out the fueling tables in the R4 software so the 4400cc's of injectors I have were just spraying unknown amounts of fuel as soon as I turned the key. Well I pulled power to the controller and the car started up after a few cranks. But now she was idling at about 20:1 AFR, but is now at about 17:1 with the couple things I fixed. I'm going to have to ditch the TIG between the JMF and the head as I can head air just shooting out right there. Made this guy last night to try and help diagnose the issues.

 

For whatever reason, the tigs just dont work with the jmf. Curious if the Adaptive Performance will.

 

I have a new OEM one coming but....

idk lets ask lol
@Adapted_Performance
Will your TIG work with the JMF?

 

Looks like you are running a custom made phenolic spacer? If so, that by itself will not seal, you need to run a gasket between the spacer and the head and the spacer and the manifold.

But, I have single runner .093 thick tig / gaskets being cut now. Hope to have those back next week. Should be perfect for the single runner jmf manifolds. I am also making 1/8 & 1/4 inch phenolic spacers but those will require the stock .010 thick gasket on both sides.

 

Sweet. I'll grab the oem one for now and when you get yours done I'll probably grab one.

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So the issue was the JMF with the TIG. As soon as I threw in the OEM gasket the car was idling and running great at 14.7:1 AFR. So the same day I got the AFR fixed I got a dolly (not ideal but no choice) from uhaul and towed the car to Mark Gibson's (Realgib3) shop to have the downpipe and dump tube fabed up. Then hope to be able to start the tuning process and then be able to drive her back home. Just need to fix a couple things, like the power steering leak she sprung while pulling her onto the dolly. Its most likely from the way I put the lines back after I was going to relocate the power steering fluid tank. So I think either a fitting is leaking or one of the rubber hoses cracked. I have a parts car at my disposal so I'm going to just take all the lines off that car and put them on mine in the proper way. Just waiting for Mark to give me the okay to come up to the shop and work on it. I have a double hump coupler from Treadstone that I want to throw on the HTP hot side. I had to cut it to extend it an inch and a half to meet my turbo as my turbo isn't really in the stock location. Its weird how much room I have in the barn without this car in there. But I can't wait to have her back.


ALSO this Friday (4/8/2016) someone is coming to buy the other black ms3 I bought to flip a while back. Majority of the money is going to pay off a student loan. Then the rest is going to buy me a welder so I can quit paying people to weld stuff up for me when I'm capable of doing it myself. I can't wait until the ms3 is done, just plan to do little clean up things from here on out. Looking for the next project now, I think I am looking for something with a few less pistons, like 4 less.....

 

Good to see you making progress. 4 less pistons? Rotary in the future? Haha


Tapatorque steering

 

So the car is home again! and she drove home over an hour from Mark's shop to the house without a problem and even took a log. Mark is loving my manifold as we have been having problems with boost creep on the cp-e mani and the precisions lately here in NEO. So this DCR mani is holding boost perfectly so far. Last night she was on spring pressure of 1 bar and held it the whole time. I can't wait to turn her up. All the money, all the time, all the stress is worth it. After I strapped into the harness and cruised with her on the way home and then got to feel boost again it is amazing. She is slow right now but I can't hardly complain. she will be making good power here soon.
the first log, after I grew a pair big enough to go for it



not very pretty yet. Going to coat the intake to be the same color as the rest of my stuff then going to coat the dump with the same coating as the mani, and then clean up a few odds and ends. I can't thank Mark, Jake, Kevin, Sho, and the lady for everything they've done to help me get the car to the point she is now.

 

that's a hell of a dump tube. lol

 

EWG back into exhaust stream for me, if I ever go built/bigger turbo. I'm one of those "rare" guys that thinks EWG dump sounds really bad.

 

You get used to it and love it. I didn't like it when I first heard it on sho's car. Now it makes me giggle

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Meh... I still like a semblance of sleeper status. The way I see it, I won't get confused for a regular 3 anymore with EWG. Nevermind the fact that when I WOT, all confusion goes out the window anyways

 

By the time I'm in boost and the ewg opens there is no confusion one what's happening.

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Welp something happened. I did a total of 5 logs and then brought the car home after a log and parked it for a few hours. When I started it back up there was a noise. It sounded like an overly dramatic clutch chatter. I didn't pay much attention to it because the twin disk has always been noisy. But Wednesday (4/20/16) I went to go fill the beast up at the gas station and the noise was really loud then. Registering no knock, but it would get loud with throttle input. When I got to the gas station I shut the car off and then needed to start it back up. She was hard to start but would fire up once I gave her a little gas. Still had the loud noise. I then knew something was up so I moved her to a parking spot and then took the video below. Mark Gibson said it could be the fuel pressure relief valve off the fuel rail which it did kinda sound the same. So I swapped in a spare I had and the noise persisted. At this point the slave cylinder failed, it was brand new and was about 2 months old and had 150 miles on her. So this lead me to believe it was the clutch. Jake who had the clutch before be said it felt funny when he drove it after helping fabricate the downpipe and dump tube. So when I got back from EMN 2016 I towed the car from the gas station where I left it and took it back to the barn.
So fast forward to last Saturday, I got the engine and transmission out. I couldn't sleep last night so I went out there at 11 last night and worked until 2:30 AM and detached the engine from trans and then started crossing off possibilities. The clutch looked to still be aligned correctly on the engine. The trans turned over fine without making any weird noises and the fluid that came out that had 150 miles on it looked brand new. Oil looked great that came out of the engine also. So I took the spark plugs out and they looked great too. I then started turning the motor over by hand on the engine stand and watched the valves cycle through and all open and seal on the intake and exhaust side. Also the cams look great. Like I said above when the car was running and making the noise it wasn't registering any knock. So it leads me to believe its not the engine internally. So there are only a few things that move constantly with the engine. Clutch, Water Pump, idler pullies, and HPFP. So I'm going to put my HPFP on Sho's car this week to see if it makes noise on his car. I'm also sending these pictures of the clutch to everyone I know that has experience with the twin disks to see if they see anything wrong. I'll be pretty pissed if I pulled the motor and it was the HPFP problem. In the last log I took the HPFP was holding pressure fine but this noise started a few hours after that log.


Cylinder #1

Cylinder #2

Cylinder #3

Cylinder #4





Disk closest to the engine, sticker says flywheel side. I had it right. (dirty paw prints are from taking it off)

Middle pressure plate

Disk furthest from the engine, closest to the pressure plate. Sticker on other side says pressure plate side, and I had it correct.

Pressure plate furthest from the engine.

the outside of the pressure plate.

All the bolts were still tight and from what I could tell torqued to spec.

 

Well got a chance to look at the disks and pressure plates closer yesterday. Not what I wanted to see. I don't know that its the cause of my noise but it definitely can't go back in. I'm going to be buying a new clutch today to replace it.
This is the plate closest to the flywheel but its the side that is facing the middle pressure plate.

Same disk same side just bottom half

This is the disk further from the flywheel. This is also the side that is facing the middle pressure plate. The bad sides of each disk are both facing the same flywheel.

 

The cracks in that second disk my have been some of the noise.

 

you think? I'm not sure if it is all of it or not. I'm hoping so lol.