My WTF am I doing Build/Maintenance Thread

No real updates on the car. I did pick up the extra brake booster as a CYA. On inspecting that one the center post has about the same amount of play as the one installed.

Yessir - I went there.

I know when the center post is extended I do not see any adjustment nuts.


The pedal side also does not contain any adjustment nuts, just under the rubber is a washer of sorts.


Spinning either end does not increase/decrease the length of anything. Gonna do it all again with the existing parts. If no go then I will pull the booster out and try the one I picked up Monday.



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In addition to the slab leak in my office there was water pouring down my yard and into the street when I got home. 5 holes later without finding the problem I turned the water off to the house. Called a plumber - they found a broken T in the front bed before any of the other cut offs. $750 later I'm no longer watering the street.

This has been an awesome week, lol

 

I've mostly given up. I'll do rotors and calipers all day. I'll bleed the brakes and replace fluid. But fuck this particular job.

I could have dropped my transmission and replaced the clutch at least a dozen times by now.

Having my old co-worked come out this weekend to assist - was a master technician or some shit in the past. I'd rather pay him than some shop.

Bonuses in March - that and what I've been putting aside will have a nice sum to put down on something new.

 

I'm not sure why you're having such a difficult time with this repair job. I understand your frustrations as all of us have been here before.

Remember that while doing diagnostics take a slow logical approach to solving the issue.

You said you removed the MC and the pedal would move. The next step would be to remove the MC from the car, put it in a vise and attempt to push the piston by hand. It should move slowly with some resistance but not a lot.

If it doesn't move then yes the MC is seized. If it does you need to look at possible reasons as to what's keeping it from moving fluid.

It may be possible that lines are connected incorrectly. The lines from the MC to ABS module. If you connected them wrong and the fluid isn't going into the Abs module properly you can have a stiff pedal or improper operation.

I only suggested checking the brake booster push rod as a simple check to possible reason why you're having a bound pedal.

 

So my buddy Ed just left after doing diagnostics on the brake system with me.

We think everything boils down to me being less than smart. After running vacuum tests, which was his initial question/line of thinking that I was not producing enough vacuum. And I wasn't without clamping down all the intercooler tubing from my last test (12psi or equivalent unit is- said a minimum of 18 is needed)- but still not my issue. Tightened the clamps to intercooler and shot up to 28psi.

While everything is installed correctly, bled correctly etc etc - when I returned my initial brake booster I must have left the spacer on it that goes between the booster and the firewall. Missing this spacer means I am already engaging the master after tightening it down - this would explain the hard pedal - the fluid has nowhere to go.

Looking at 1 image I have of the stock booster from this angle I am 99% positive there is a spacer missing between the booster and the firewall - this is causing all my issues.



The part at the top barely visible - pretty sure that is gone - pretty sure I did not install that on my last go around and gave it to OReilly's on my core return.

My biggest enemy is myself - so now I need to find that part (haven't found a listing - is included in the OEM booster kit for $540 but no separate part number.) Or build some spacers of the same length to put over the studs of the booster.

I feel stupid. Time to go hunting.

 

U-pull yard or someone on MSO with a parts car would be your winning ticket.
Im sure its the kind of mistake anyone of us could make!

 

Thank you, I'll laugh about it later I'm sure. I just couldn't believe it looking through all my images again and comparing the shop manual.

I found a whole booster on Ebay that shows the adapter connected in the sell picture for $50, should be here by Friday. I'm still gonna look locally. Apparently one of the major refurbisher's(?) is here in Dallas, buddy said to give them a call and see what they have lying around - possibly the same one I gave away is lying in a bin there. Still all this because I'm missing a damn part, hah.

I'm gonna dig through my now messy garage and see if its hiding under something - and I never really noticed it because I wasn't looking for it - fingers crossed.

 

Ebay part arrived on time. Is definitely a completely different part. The spacer I was lacking is attached to the booster - it does not come off so its not in my garage. The master cylinder piston hole seems smaller - I haven't measured or compared much yet.

Picked up a touch of poison ivy on my hand this week. Not a large spot but I'm pretty damn allergic. 4 days of keeping it bandage only to find the rash on both sides of my abdomen, hips, back of my head and the worst spot - right on my inner thigh uncomfortably close to the ol' twig an berries this morning prompted a trip to urgent care for a dose of steroids. Took all day between locations that were open, waiting once I'm there and picking up my GF from rehearsals.

Not really feeling it today - hopefully tomorrow.

How allergic? Example from quite a while ago (15+ yrs) but the last time I tried to self treat and hoped it went away - WARNING - skinny white boy legs and some rash ahead so I'll go ahead and just post links.
(Damn my camera phone sucked back then)
https://i.imgur.com/bKo7ygX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tpvclxz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3VNm0fr.jpg?1

Hoping to feel more normal tomorrow and get this damn project finished. Can only blame myself though

 

Pop the blisters and rub bleach on them. Always clears it right up for me

 

Come rub up on me, sharing is caring.

 

Everything back on and bled. Still did something wrong as when re-installed the battery the brake lights come on and stay on.

Gonna check the switch and sensor and then give the wheel lines another bleed and check again. Pedal definitely is sitting at a proper height compared to the last (improper) booster that was installed.

 

Mmmm travel all the way to Texas for a chance to get poison ivy sign me up!

 

Picked up the switch - the ol "Just a counter clock-wise twist to remove" is a fucking lie in my case, My small hands still can't twist in the space given...I'll be damned if I want to remove this pedal again but I might tomorrow. Think I'm done in the garage for the night.

 

Old switch out - new switch in - no more always on brake lights.

Guess its time to put the wheels back on, double check clutch pedal for stiffness and give her a go

 

Front calipers are seized and wont let the rotor/wheel spin.

Disassembled and reset the driver side - about to repeat on passenger and see what happens.

 

Woohoo - so far so good.

Test drive around the block about 5 times - everything seems to work as it should. Fluid is still moving around from clutch or brake because I had to add some more into the reservoir when I got back, just a little. I'll do a few more test drives tomorrow before getting too far out from home.

Good lord this took too damn long. Always check your parts =|

Once I'm sure its all good on the brake/clutch I'm due for an oil change and then I can install the fancy undertray. Then hopefully nothing for a while.

 

After all you have been through I would be doing tons of laps around the neighborhood just in case

 

I will - I'm tired and need to eat. I'll probably do a dozen more before venturing too far out tomorrow.

 

Brakes work. Back to losing clutch pedal pressure after a while and sticks to floor.

New master, new slave - all new lines from start to end. Possible bad slave again?

* Almost certainly failed slave - seems to have a leak from the bleeder or the top side of the inlet. Just inspected and dried it off - will check again in an hour or so. Give it some pumps and inspect again.



I retract my last edit - It sure 'sounds' like the master giving out - an audible "squish" noise when pushing down the pedal. I'm pretty sure I have 1 more new master in my garage I forgot I had purchased. With everything else that went on possible it bit it instead.

I have tonight's project I guess.

 

Almost have the assembly out to inspect.

When I say a squish sound its not a sound I recall hearing in all the years. You can feel the pressure build as your press the pedal down until it reaches a point and you get the "squish" as if pressure is being released and the lack of pressure behind the pedal is exhibited. No leaks that I could see interior or in the engine bay.

Gonna have a beer and a snack.

If this doesn't do it I'm taking it to a shop.

 

Old clutch master out - new clutch master in. Bleeding process started but I have a meeting in a minute.