My WTF am I doing Build/Maintenance Thread

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by jdr767, May 3, 2021.

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  1. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    I'm done working on the car for a bit if I can help it - gotta fix the bike now.

    Things to do though:
    1- Check suspension travel/play. Ride is obviously lower and stiffer with the new coilovers - but going over bridges gets things rocking annoyingly so.
    2 - Check gas tank filler - I get a small leak from (I think) where the fill spout meets the tank. Only when the tank is full and the car is facing up an incline, like my driveway. I glanced at it when installing rear suspension but was more interested in getting back on the road. This is a leftover from the last time I got hit but "The mechanics couldn't find an issue" so its up to me I guess.
    3 - There was something else
     
  2. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    Unrelated to the car - I found what happened to the bike. Troubleshot a few things and figured the only noise was the secondary gear assembly. Pulled out the speedo sensor and was gifted confetti - oh boy!
    [​IMG]

    Removed rear wheel, drive shaft assembly - all looked good. Pulled of the metal housing and look what I found where its not supposed to be. This
    [​IMG]
    Was hanging out here with his washer buddy.
    [​IMG]
    That is the 12x24 bolt head that goes into the secondary gear pinging around the transfer case from engine to driveshaft. Supposed to be here
    [​IMG]
    And the only way to pull that gear is to pull the engine. Woohoo!
     
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  3. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    At least you have all winter to fix it
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Oct 26, 2021
    #63
  4. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    That is a plus.
     
  5. Fulltilt

    Fulltilt Greenie Member

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    Thanks for the tip to listen to Tool. Good fun.
     
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  6. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    I'm old now.
     
  7. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    Haven't driven much in the last few weeks, turned 40 at the beginning of the month and reading up on how to dismantle my motorcycle. When I have driven I've noticed the car is too low/too much play in suspension - bottoming out on the tollways and rubbing at full turn radius - not bad but also what I get for just throwing the shit on there with guestimates on what I wanted.. And an annoying as hell squeak from the rear somewhere that is new - as in I've never heard this squeak in my car my car has made a ton of different squeaks over the years.

    Re-loaded the spring and raised the front suspension up about an inch. Also took the time to remove the subframe again and properly hang both sides of the DP into the rubber hangers. I had forgotten last time before putting the frame back up and there just isn't the clearance to get them both on while everything is tight. I figured it was so tight I wouldn't have an issue but nope- some exhaust creaks in slow maneuvers.

    Tomorrow I'll re-do the rear suspension - much less involved than the fronts if I remember correctly. Maybe find that damn squeak too. I've pushed and pulled on all the seats and sections, rocked the car but cannot duplicate the sound myself.
     
  8. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    Re did the rear suspension...mostly. I raised the ride height to 13" from center of wheel to wheel well, about a finger of space. Feels much better. Shock length stayed the same, the bolts holding the top plate did not want to come undone easily and I did not want to fight it.

    Still getting a clunk from the rear...I can almost feel it. But I'm starting to think its actually my side skirts bumping around. I know for a fact they are loose on both sides. Gonna secure them better tomorrow and see if the clunk goes away. I have some stupid strong water proof tape - actually held my bumper lip on so well I thought I was going to have a problem getting it off.
     
  9. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    After a test drive today I'm pretty convinced my rear end is just bouncing around - that is the thunk I'm hearing. Guess I'll lift it back up and start again.
     
  10. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    The welded nut inside the lower control arm that the lower shock bolt connects to has become...un-welded.
    Went to adjust some things and was having a bitch of a time getting the bolt to turn, through maybe I had bent it? No, the bolt become un-welded which caused the whole bolt to twist within the assembly. After a ton of cussing and fucking my pinky up pretty good I got it all out. Now short of replacing the entire assembly tonight - because I don't have one tonight, trying to find a redneck engineered solution for in the mean time.
     
  11. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    I can't picture it so this may be a stupid question but does it need to be welded? Can't you just put a wrench on the nut to tighten?
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Dec 6, 2021
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  12. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    No that is a good question. Yes. No.

    [​IMG]

    This image is looking "up" from the floor under the drivers side rear with the rotor just out of sight at the top. The bolt you see peaking out of the window also pointing to top of the image is the bolt in question. The nut that this bolt drives into was welded up inside that housing. I went and got appropriate lock nuts, 1 for each side just in case, in hopes I can thread the nut on there and hopefully get a socket or wrench back in there to hold it until tight. Apart from the window its enclosed on all sides.
     
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  13. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    Fuck man good luck.
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Dec 6, 2021
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  14. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    Re-reading this again this morning - that nut probably doesn' t have to be welded in but it sure would make things a lot easier. I don't weld but have been meaning to learn. The stock bolts are also 90mm in length. I got 2 80mm and 2 70mm long m12-1.25 bolts last night as well. My thinking is if the bolt is a little shorter then I'll have maybe a bit more room for a socket/wrench/anything other than my fingers and a prybar.

    I have to get some things done for work but I'll get out to the garage in a few hours and try no to bust anymore fingers.
     
  15. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    I though that maybe I would have a decent "head on" access in that window if I removed the rear caliper and dust shield. Did not realize the rear dust shield was affixed differently than the fronts. As in I'm not getting them off without cutting the whole thing around.

    Come to find out the stock bolts are 90mm. The ones I used from ISC were 80mm. The 70mm I bought will work but I still get screwed when the nut gets pulled back into the housing to go flush. It is a 19mm nut so it is got some girth to it. Now I'm debating cutting out the "window" to give me some more angle - I think if I can get something cut out to the top of the elongated hole in the image above I might be able to get a bolt inserted backwards. Same issue as before but I should also be able to get a long socket or driver straight in as well.
     
  16. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    So the bolt still passes through a hole in the arm right? Just use jb weld it doesn't need to be real welding if it's just to hold the nut in place to tighten down
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Dec 7, 2021
    #76
  17. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    Correct - only thing wrong is the "nut". My concern with jb weld is getting it all over the inside and on the threads causing more issues in the future. Or am I just overthinking?

    I'm going ahead and working on cutting out a little more access - I have one long cut just about done - if I can get even a bit more access I will try the jb weld option.
     
  18. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    Just don't put a shitload on it a small dab will do
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Dec 7, 2021
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  19. jdr767

    jdr767 Platinum Member

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    So my first go at the driver's side I cut the metal as intended - up from the window to the top of the elongated hole. Game more room but the way the angle meets below the bolt hole still prevented any sort of tool to grab the nut/bolt. So I cut down and how have a nice huge window that a (small) socket or box wrench fits. I opted for the box wrench and its all tightened down. If this works I'll get an even shorter bolt me thinks.

    [​IMG]

    Not the prettiest - I don't often cut metal but a good cutting wheel on my Dremel and it didn't take too long once I got the angles down. Filed it down to make it somewhat safer - I've destroyed my hands it feels like this week.

    Get everything back on and tight then move to the passenger side. Hoping that side is still welded - if not no fucking around this time and just cutting the hole damn thing open.
     
  20. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    You need to paint the exposed metal edge
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Dec 9, 2021
    #80
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