[SOLVED] New fuel injectors - Car will no longer stay running

Total noob here hoping that someone can help out. Recently purchased a modded 07 mazdaspeed6. Previous owner said fuel injectors needed to be replaced (codes on accessport agreed with that as well) so that's what my dad and I did today. After replacing the injectors, we can NOT get the car to run right/stay running. After a few tries turning the key we can get the car to turn over fully and I can keep it idling (very roughly) if I feather the throttle. If I hold the throttle open, I basically get no response. If I do nothing, car will idle rough for a short period and then shut itself off.

We took everything apart and put it back together twice to make sure we didn't miss any bolts/wires/plugs etc. The very first time we started the car after putting it back together the second time, it started right up perfectly fine, the idle was great, I had full throttle response. Everything seemed fine. We turned the car back off, cleaned up the garage, and when I went to start the car back up... the same issues started that were happening the first time.

The only thing the accessport is showing me is the vtcs shutter valve is stuck closed. But that same error was present when it started up and was running great.

I'm not sure what could have changed between us turning the car off and then coming back to it so I am really scratching my head on where to look. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check the ground by the hpfp it always gets missed. Then check all of the other wiring again

 

When we took everything apart this morning we found this wire was super brittle and actually ended up falling out of the plug right easily. Not sure what exactly it is. We’re going to replace this real quick and then will verify that. Feel like it’s got to be something simple.

appreciate you responding bud. Legend.

 

Hpfp ground was good. Still working through plug.

 

What exactly is that plug for? Not sure what that is. Can’t find it.

 

that is your vtt solenoid. It activates the cam phasers. Mine is close to the same shape.

 

When I did my injectors the pins in them were bent on return so I had one not firing had to straighten them out even though I had fully seated the connector, but I did get a code for that. Other thing can be if throttle body is disconnected still start then stop.

That connector in your pic is the vtcs solenoid,

 

Took everything apart again and the injectors we had out in had the metal stuck in it. Got it out and here is a picture. We are going to put the old injectors back in. Something don’t seem right with these.

 

Okay we got everything back together with the old injectors. Car will start and stay running but something is not right still. If I hit the gas itll top out at a weak 3k rpm. Cobb is showing p0123, 0037, 0222, and 0403. Assume the throttle/pedal position sensor could be relevant to that? I don’t know.

 

Another update. Found an old mazda with the plug needed so that is resolved. Reseated the TPS sensor and cleaned it off and then tried to start the car again with the old injectors in and it started right up with proper throttle response and all. We wiped the old injectors down before re-installing as they were blackened up. Probably didn't make a difference but did it anyway. . I Drove it home, started it again, and it's still running fine. Car is running at a smoother idle than when we began to attempt to replace the injectors to begin with.

So at the end of it all.... we took everything apart times just to put it back together like it was originally when we pulled it into the garage and it's working again but better than before without us really doing much. Took all of the electrical tape off of wires and re taped them up was the only extra thing that we did today outside of re-installing old injectors.

I'm going to mark this as solved in a day or two but want to leave the thread open temporarily after I have a full day of it running as I don't trust it. Just in case something happens and I need to ask another question or two here.

Thanks again for everyone's input. Looking forward to learning more about all of this.

 

That's so frustrating

 

Definitely so. BUT my engine misfire codes are gone and the car is running better than before so I'm not going to complain too much. If I let it sit and idle for a few minutes I'll start to get a semi heavy white smoke coming from exhaust and will probably look into that next.

Codes I started with:
P0300
P2177
P2187
P0403
P0012

Codes that I have now:
P0137
P0037
P0123
P0222
P0012

Mostly just seems some sensors need to be replaced at this point. Drove the car an hour down the road to work this morning and all still seems to be running good. Marking resolved once I make it back home today.

 

Making me look up the codes smh.

P0137 P0037 ; agreed probably just the o2 senor, NTK is OEM and all we recommend around here

P0123 P0222; throttle body related, is it fully plugged in? Have you cleaned it? How's the wiring giving your connector that broke?

P0012; timing did you fix that connector on the vvt solenoid yet? Could be causing this very easily

 

Lol I'm sorry! I didn't expect you guys to look up those codes! Was just putting them there as a wrap up to the work that's been done and the results.

Gonna get an 02 sensor ordered this weekend and that should take care of those two, hopefully.

As far as I can tell, throttle bottle is fully plugged in but I am not fully confident in the wiring and we have not cleaned it. Looked over a bunch of the wiring and a lot of it seems to be okay. But when I took the original electrical tape off the wires were all super dirty with who knows what. Wiped them all down but that doesn't mean there isn't a short or something possibly somewhere along the line.

We weren't able to fully fix that connecter yet and it's got to be the reason for the code. We just kind of made due with the copper plugging in as the clip could not be repurposed. Wire broke too close to it. Ordering a new clip this weekend as well and hopefully that knocks that code out.

 

Idfk man. It seems fine. I'd say we are good here. Just can't figure out how to mark it solved.

I did get a ticket this morning for my exhaust. Virginia is trash. Is there anything that I can do to quiet it down outside of replacing exhaust? has a 3inch vband downpipe straight pipe exhaust. And if I do have to replace exhaust, will I have to get it re-tuned? Assuming so because guessing the cat needs to go back on.

 

Where in Virginia are you? Must be somewhere they care, I've never gotten so much as a glance. With a straight pipe you're asking for trouble and a lot of drone - just put in a resonated test pipe or find a way to make it less shitty. As long as your diameter doesn't change and you aren't putting in cats where there weren't previously cats you won't need a tune.

 

Glad you got it sorted.

You should be able to just toss in resonator and muffler (catback) and that will do wonders for noise. A touch-up tune is probably warranted, whoever tuned it should be able to help with that even though it's a different owner now.

 

live in page co but for the ticket in sperryville. It was a state boy so no surprise. To be fair it is a little obnoxious I suppose lol. Okay sweet I’ll see what I can figure out. Good to know the cat doesn’t have to go back on and no need to re tune.

Sweet seems easy enough. It was tuned by purple drank tuning out of Maryland so I’ll give them a shout.

 

That's great, Will @ purple drank is amazing he's one of the top 2 tuners for the platform the other being Justin @ freektune, was hoping it was one of those two that tuned it.

Definitely reach out with the vin and access port serial number and tune name (probably po's name plus rev #)explaining you're the new owner and looking to add a catback (or whatever you want) asking if would he be willing to do a touch-up tune.

 

Music to my ears to know that it was done by one of the best. Do you have anything specific you'd recommend for resonator/catback?