[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

I just woke up and saw this. The VTCS should default to open if there is an issue. You could take a hand vacuum pump to the actuator and see if it holds vacuum and moves. It should move smoothly.

As for the solenoid you could apply 12v to it and listen to it. With the hand pump you could see if it's fully opening by using the pumps gauge to see how much vacuum is passing through it with the engine running.

 

no but i sent him an email im waiting to hear back

okay ill try this out.

 

here are 3 logs

first one is just a cold cruising log
seconds is a startup log
third is repeating the no power flashing check engine condition

@L337TurboZ @Enki @StreetSpeed6

When I compare datalog 43 to a log of 3rd gear wot looking a a column with similar psi and load(-0.8, 0.7 load), only differenced im noticing is when im WOT in the old log the intake valves are advanced 20 degrees and 26 degrees in the log i took today, MAF voltage looks identical as well as g/s, obviously fuel trims are different, Spark advance is much more advanced on the wot log but that just could be cause I was wot

If i compare 40% throttle position, the load is much higher on the log from today, injectors are also working much harder but I guess this is due to the +FT (stft at +33% under 40% throttle)

I don't really know exactly what i'm looking for if any of you guys are good at analyzing logs please help me out.

also I took a video of the cold start this morning to see if maybe my timing chain had lost tension or something along those lines, I didnt hear anything.
I did hear a weird noise before i started the car tho is this normal?
also throw in 2 pictures of my spark plugs as of yesterday

@StreetSpeed6 thanks for your help I really appreciate it

 

None of that shit is gonna cause a lean reading. Maybe a wiring fault, bad primary/secondary O2 sensor (unplug the secondary to test), bad MAF sensor, injector not firing properly (you'd feel this immediately IMO) or some kind of air leak between turbo and MAF. Under boost, the check valve for the PCV should be closing, and if it isn't, you'd be running rich.

Looking at the log, I'm wondering if that ain't happening actually. Anyone have a stock tune/intake MAFCAL they can post for me to compare GS to voltage with?

 

I think your valve cover gasket is leaking a little bit as the threads on your spark plugs are wet. Mine used to look like that before I rebuilt my engine, so it could also possibly be from excessive blow-by idk. No problem with the help man I know what it is like to have an issue and just hoping that someone can help with it.

I will try to look over your logs and the video tonight. I am not a self tuner (although I badly want to learn) so I can only interpret so much though. I'll look for anything off from my experience though.

@chris' speed 3 this link has a similar issue to you and I think you may want to check it out!



I think they said the retaining clip came off the wastegate actuator arm. Check it before anything else man. Could be your issue for sure!

 

Ill try unplugging the secondary o2 and see if that changes anything, as for injectors ive had a p0202 before and its a way different type of sluggish compared to my current issue
Ive looked over the intake turbo-->maf and taken out and reassembled it all looks good. One theory I have is i have a vented catch can for VC->intake. Is it possible the vent is sucking air in? but again this would be noticeable at all times right?

Would it be helpful to have an old log from before the issue started?

Awesome I'll check this out, I was under the hood today and took a look at my BC and WG actuator and it looked okay but I need to do a legit boost test or smoke test
thanks

 

Be better to have a diagram or photos of your catchcan setup.

 

heres a quick diagram let me know if this is sufficient
Sealed occ is mishimoto and vented one is DM

 

Well there's your leak, at the vented can to the intake.
Ideally you'd want a check valved vent on the sealed can you have now and a sealed can for the intake.

 

i forgot to include the check valve but on the sealed can there's a check valve on the line going back into the manifold
Also don't the DM vented cans have a check valve built into the vent?
I had the vented OCC on for more then a month before this happened but maybe something failed
Would it be worth putting the stock VC-->intake tube back in to see if that solves the issue?

Edit: this would make sense because the issue happens when boost starts to build and the point of the check valve is to close off when being introduced to boost right?

Ill do this this weekend thanks

 

Pull the filter on the vented can and see if there is a valve there, might be stuck open. If it is, pull it and clean it, then spray it with silicone spray as a dry lubricant and reinstall.

 

Okay i'll do this, ill also make sure all the lines are good and nothing ripped or anything

 

Damn, this could have been solved 10 days ago if I had been a little more verbose here.

 

It might not solve the issue tho, wouldn’t a vacuum leak be noticeable under all conditions? Not just under higher load?

 

It depends on the flow restriction. The blowby from the valve cover could be pushing a good amount into the intake at idle (probably unlikely tbh) or the catch can filter could be more restrictive than the regular intake filter until a certain flow range. Only way to know for sure is to test.

 

So I disconnected my vented catch can and put the old oem hose back on, double checked the pcv catch can system and it all looks tight. Also changed my spark plugs since i did a compression test and was there, 6510 gapped at .026. Nothing changed problems still there

I don't know where else to look, I'm going to try and get it to my local speed shop (Bob speed) apparently they do good work

 

You did double check that the little c-clip is on the turbo's actuator arm? Hopefully they will line you out and it isn't something too bad man!

 

I think I did I checked, all the vacuum lines going to the turbo and everything is connected properly, I have a bad feeling I’m gna have to make a choice between selling the speed or putting a new engine in it but ig we’ll see, hopefully it’s smt dumb

 

What's that hose that isn't connected to anything in the last picture you posted?

 

You can't see the c-clip on the actuator arm in that pic. I'm assuming it is on but you won't know unless you put your hand down in there and feel to be sure. Nonetheless that is a good possibility that you'll be faced with that. Rebuilding one that isn't blown up wouldn't be too expensive if going stock. The problem is that most people fall down the built motor rabbit hole such as myself lol