Saving a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by Shadowplane676, Feb 21, 2020.

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  1. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    That fender is wild, never seen a dog chewing on cars lol. Just a heads up the speed fender is different from the 3 hatch. If you find a place that's got a good deal I'm looking for one too.
     
    JohnnyTightlips, via a mobile device, Sep 13, 2020
    #61
  2. Uberfly

    Uberfly Gold Member

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    Regarding the clunks, my money is on sway bar bushings. they're a bitch because they're mounted on the top side of the sway bar/sub-frame.
    .
     
  3. Shadowplane676

    Shadowplane676 Greenie Member

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    I'll look at inspecting the sway bar bushings. I think I narrowed it down to the car having Whiteline 27mm bars front and rear. Luckily they have replacement bushings available.

    Unfortunately I have noticed a vibration in the steering wheel usually above 60 mph. This is after new tires, new axles, new sway bar end links, JBR motor mounts. Only items I can think of left are potentially original wheel bearings being grumpy from sitting for 2+ years. I may go ahead and replace both front wheel bearings with OEM mazda ones or at least an SKF or Timken replacement. Other than that, I am not sure what else could cause this vibration.

    Good ol' whack-a-problem of an older project car!
     
  4. Shadowplane676

    Shadowplane676 Greenie Member

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    And I forgot to add that lately I keep popping a P2009 CEL periodically. Since I will be pulling the TMIC to put CS boost pipes on, I'll be double checking the replacement vacuum line and solenoid connectors just in case. Hopefully its not the solenoid or actuator though.

    Could be worse, Even with the catless downpipe, no CEL for secondary O2....yet.
     
  5. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Silver Member

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    Check the lines to the vcts actuator and the connections there, also it's little plastic rod that actuates it make sure that's not broken
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Oct 5, 2020
    #65
  6. Shadowplane676

    Shadowplane676 Greenie Member

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    I replaced a number of vacuum lines with silicone vacuum lines when I was doing previous work, but I'll give them another look.
     
  7. Shadowplane676

    Shadowplane676 Greenie Member

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    Finally got the CORRECT A/C clutch to remedy my A/C engagement issues. Found out that a P.O. pinched the A/C command wire between the compressor and the block. I can only surmise that the pinched wire was a contributing cause to the VERY apparently overheated, melted and crunchy magnet. Once swapped out and properly shimmed to .3 mm, the A/C is working spectacularly.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also, I think the vibration I was feeling is brake related and "may" clear up as the car is driven. if not, I am fully OK with doing pads and rotors as one can only trust a P.O. so far... Plus I can always do some upgraded pads and rotors instead of stock :)

    Unfortunately I am still getting the P2009 CEL. Lines look OK so next is to check/replace the solenoid.

    P.S. - Anyone need an A/C clutch for a regular 3? Unused and uninstalled...
     
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  8. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    I bought powerstop slotted and cross drilled rotors and matching pads and have been happy for about 30k miles if your looking for an inexpensive upgrade for the street. Was about $80 more than good blanks from Rock auto
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Oct 16, 2020 at 10:17 PM
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  9. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Silver Member

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    Drilled & slotted Rotors are a little excessive for the street slotted will cut down noise and increase friction while not increasing pad wear as much as drilled and slotted. I quite like my stop tech blanks and ebc yellow, next time I'll be doing slotted and gloc pads as the end yellow bite when cold is not the best and o drive mine at -40
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Oct 16, 2020 at 11:49 PM
    #69
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