The ButtStallion Build

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by VashEXE, Oct 29, 2017.

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  1. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Gold Member

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    I always use soapy water for tight hoses. Pure soap is too slippery, and soapy water dries up with the first heat cycle so no leftover residue.

    I've heard good things about the vacuum line that full race provides.

    I actually use woven fuel injection hose for vacuum line. Its stiff and available at every friggin local auto parts store.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 17, 2018
  2. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Just got finished up with dialing in my WGDC and getting boost to where I want it. Unfortunately it looks like I'll just have to deal with some taper up top to 28psi, but as far as the power is concerned it feels great. The extra weight on this is because I had my lady with me as well. I still have timing to wrap up and some finishing touches to get the AFRs prettier.

    [​IMG]

    Not sure what the TMIC power record is, but I'm pretty happy with my numbers so far ;)
     
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  3. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Thanksgiving is over and I'm ready to get back into tuning this thing.

    Over the holiday I had a quick connect from my heater core disintegrate and had a coolant leak. I think this is the leak I've been chasing for a long time, so I'm glad I found it, but it was a pain in the ass. The quick connect part is on national backorder and the only place that had any was Canada. I ordered up the parts and paid for the fast shipping ($62 total for both). Ordered on Monday after lunch and they magically came in on Tuesday. I'm not really sure how, but I am not going to ask any questions. Swapped out both the upper and lower quick connects and everything seems good now. Changed out my oil and everything is nice and fresh now.

    I've also been battling some knock lately in higher RPMs and it's killing my tuning unfortunately. I don't believe it's real knock, but I've gone a step colder on plugs, made a bunch of adjustments to make sure nothing is rattling around in the engine bay, and have also gone up to E51 (Full E in Phoenix). My CPE intercooler shroud seemed like it might've been rattling a bit, so I ghetto rigged it up so it couldn't rattle anymore, I think that's the smoking gun here, but I'm going to stay on E51 since it's so easy to just pump full E and I've got all the headroom I could want.

    We'll see how things look in the next couple nights when I can get some logs.
     
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  4. _Mazdarati

    _Mazdarati Silver Member

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    So you're FULL BLOWN E? No pump gas mix?
     
  5. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Full Blown E is E51 here like I said, so It's basically a 50/50 mix anywhere else.
     
  6. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    This turbo is maxed out boys. There's a little more timing to add still, but this is about where I'm gonna get up to. After I get my peak numbers I'm prolly gonna turn it down a little to flatten this out a bit. The car drives great and is a lot of fun. After some initial issues it's finally back to being ol' reliable. Few road trips already and she's held up great. I'm surprised at how much this CPE TMIC can flow honestly, with all of the IC math I was doing I didn't think it was going to get this far.


    [​IMG]
     
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  7. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Couple small updates.

    Car has been running great. Here's the latest vdyno. No huge changes, but the car's been running great. Turbo is super maxed out.

    [​IMG]


    Today I finally installed my SWAS switch. For whatever reason I never really had an issue with SWAS on my AP v2 before the build, but after the build and the AP v3 upgrade I seemed to hit it all the time. Really noticeable on the mountains when I took it down to Tucson, so I finally got this set up. Have a little coolant leak, but I haven't bothered looking into it too hard since it's very small, but that's a pain in the ass I'll have to approach sometime.


    My next kind of shitty long term issue is my Eonon head unit. After dealing with China "support" on this for a long time I've finally given up on getting anything decent out of them. They've shipped me 2 different LCDs to try to fix my screen issue. The screen on the Eonon worked fine when it was originally installed, but one day the screen went black and has stayed that way since. I found out that at night I could very faintly see the screen. It's very dimly backlit, but during the day you can't see anything. The touch screen still works and the radio works fine, but I'm basically at the point where I have to memorize where everything is on the touch interface for me to navigate during the daytime. I've tried remounting the connections, replacing the fuse, and replacing the LCD with a new one from Eonon, but nothing seems to fix it. Not sure if anybody else here with an Eonon has had any trouble with this or not, but I've just kind of given up on it at this point.

    One other strange issue that I do not think is related is that one of my MAP lights in the car doesn't seem to function correctly. All of the other lights in the car work just fine, but no matter what bulb I use, the driver's side doesn't light up properly when the doors are opened, but works fine when the button is pressed. Here's a couple images of what I'm talking about:


    Door opened:
    [​IMG]




    MAP button pressed:
    [​IMG]


    I checked the voltages with a multimeter and when the door is opened the driver's side bulb is pulling 5v while the passenger is pulling 12v. When the button is pressed down and it lights up normally the drivers side goes up to 12v. I'm not really sure what this could be since I've swapped the bulb and have the same problem. From the wiring diagram it seems like they're wired up in parallel, so I'm not really sure what could effect just the driver's side bulb. I've checked the ROOM fuse and even replaced it for giggles, but still no dice. If anybody has any ideas on this I'm all ears.

    All of these are pretty small issues, so I can't complain too much. My first oil analysis is going out to Blackstone on Monday, so I'll report back with that after I get a response. I'm at ~8k on the motor so far. It's ripping so hard that the Pilot Super Sports don't seem to be cutting it anymore. I'm looking at a stickier tire, but I just bought this set of PSS. I think a couple of R888Rs or something in the front is what I'm gonna have to do. I can break it loose in 4th now which is hilarious, but shouldn't happen. Rather than detuning, I think tires are a good first step. All in all things are going pretty good though.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    My map light does the same thing, exept it's the passenger side while driver side works fine. Steady across bulb swaps, just like yours. It's weird.

    Nice vdyno numbers! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
     
  9. anthony

    anthony Greenie Member

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    jesus christ 500tq+ at 4k it must feel like a missile
     
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  10. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Yep, the car feels great. That's also why I need better compound lol. Just rips the tires right out from under it even with brand new super sports.
     
  11. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Did I miss where you talk about your extreme reverse taper?
     
  12. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Already said the turbo was maxed a few times. A lot of air and a fairly small big turbo.
     
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  13. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Been a while since I've updated. Car's been running great and hasn't had any issues. I've been fighting traction issues early on because I get so much tq so quick. Been thinking about getting some R888Rs up front, but I also need to throw on my under tray which I think could help keep the front end down a little bit too. The CS aluminum plate that I have is a pain in the dick to deal with, but it's a nice piece. I'm going to need to chop a hole in it for my catchcan setup though, so that's my next project.

    I just got my first Blackstone analysis back, so I figured I'd post that up here too:

    [​IMG]


    Going to run for 5k this round and see how it goes. If I could safely run it for that long I end up saving a bunch of money on oil over time lol. Royal purple life aint cheap. Running full E (E54 in AZ) and I haven't had any issues with any black death.

    Overall I've been pretty happy with how the car's been doing lately. I just washed/waxed it this weekend, so I'll try to grab a few pics soon.
    --- Double Post Merged, Feb 26, 2019 ---
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Got me some hood struts finally. So much room for activities now.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Hood struts are a game changer.
     
  16. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Updated the tune a bit last night/today. Adjusted Knock Decay and Knock Offset to help with higher RPM knock that does not vary with timing/octane differences. I do have heavier valve springs and lots of other junk done with the motor, so I've gotta assume it's just engine noise up top. I didn't realize this, but in the stock tune the knock sensor is just off from 5700rpm up, so apparently Mazda thought there was a reason for that as well. Rather than completely killing the knock sensor above 5700, the offset should allow it to ignore some of this lower end noise that it's registering as knock, but still try to save my ass if anything dumb actually did happen with some real knock, though it's unlikely with such a heavy ethanol content. Knock decay is more for knock caused by shifting, but I figured I'd set that up as well just to keep the fake knock to a minimum.
     
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  17. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    I have the opposite done on my map. Knock sensor is inactive below 3k rpm so I never see part throttle knock, and keep the knock sensor active to 8k haha
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Mar 5, 2019
  18. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Yeah, honestly I didn't want to mess with knock tables at all, but up past 6k I just can't get a pull without a little bit of chatter going on and it richening up a bit. djuosnteisn had a few posts about it on MSF, but I never really had to mess with any of that until my build. We'll see how it reacts to this. If I don't have to set that offset too high, then I'm still pretty comfortable just having it omit anything below a certain threshold.
     
  19. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    Figured I'd follow up on my tuning adjustments. Making the couple changes to the knock tables that I listed earlier really helped my top end intermittent knock issues. Haven't had any issues, so that's how I'm gonna leave it for now.

    Top of 4th still gets a little sketchy, the car likes to move around up at higher speeds and I am correcting for a good chunk of the pull most of the time. I'm gonna throw the CS skid plate back on once I chop a hole in it to access my catch cans easily. I'm hoping that big flat piece up front will help reduce lift, but I could see it going the other way too. I'll see if that ends up making a difference or not.

    Cleaned up the car this weekend after a bit of rain during the week. Still cleans up pretty good, but my exhaust tips have been fucking nasty for a long time. I hit them with some steel wool and it was way easier than I thought it was going to be. I thought I'd have to be scrubbing a bit to get all of that carbon off, but it came right off with a little water and steel wool. No scratches or anything dumb. Forgot how nice they look when they're clean. Here's a little before/after:


    Before:

    [​IMG]



    After:

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. VashEXE

    VashEXE Silver Member

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    It's been a while since I've updated, so I figured I'd post up what's been going on with the car lately since I'm stuck on a very boring conference call...

    The car has been running great. No real problems. It's starting to get hotter over here in Az, so I'm interested to see how everything holds up during the good ol' 120* temps.

    I had my 2nd real oil change, this time with 5000 miles on the oil per Blackstone's recommendation. Interested to see what they come back with. It looks like Royal Purple has changed packaging and stuff since my last oil change. @Enki 's thread about oils was talking about DEXOS2 and it looks like RP has adjusted packaging to reflect that now.

    I have had one coolant line that has been a pain in the ass for a while now. It comes off of the top port on the turbo and goes over the top of the center section. It's VERY close to my exhaust manifold and I've tried many things to keep it from getting roasted, but it looks like there really isn't any other option besides re-routing it. I've tried high temp hose + heat reflective tape + DEI fiberglass sleeve, but no dice. I got some stainless steel lines from a guy on FB for shipping and once I get a banjo fitting I should be able to route this between the turbo and the block rather than over the turbo like it is currently. Hoping to get that done this weekend.

    Other than there really isn't anything pending on the build at this point. I have a dyno day on the 24th, so I'm hoping everything stays that way until I can put down some numbers on the dyno. I'll make sure to get some videos and post them up here afterwards.
     
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