Tie Rod , Inner and Outer - Steering HOW TO REPLACE

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 How-To' started by JohnnyTightlips, Oct 8, 2021.

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  1. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    My car "as far as I know" still has OEM inner and outer tie rods. I have had a clunk for a year plus and have never been able to track it down. After doing some research I found that these might be the issue. I figured this would be good for others to know as well. I had never paid much attention to them before.

    Are mine bad? A quick test is to take it off of the knuckle and try to move the parts by hand. You should not really be able to move them by hand and the inner rod should not just flop around it should be pretty stiff. Both my inner and outer rods were loose. not so loose that it was crazy obvious but a lot looser than they should be and that is amplified by the weight of the car.

    Here is a great video walking you through it as well. I would def watch this before reading my thread , lots of great info.


    Parts Needed

    You will need below items plus common mechanic tools "extension sockets etc"
    upload_2021-10-8_8-47-56.png
    2 @ https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11389145&cc=1434570&pt=7428
    1 @ https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7749944&cc=1434570&pt=7428
    1 @ https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7749948&cc=1434570&pt=7428

    upload_2021-10-8_8-49-21.png
    Removal Tool - Inner Tie Rod Tool, EXCELFU 3/8 Inch Low Profile Tool for Inner Tie Rod Removal and Installation

    I am removing the inner and outer tie rod as a unit , because both need replaced. If you only need an outer some of this info will help but it is pretty easy to replace both.

    DO NOT FORGET, you can use the steering wheel to get it closer to you on the side you are working on.
    1. Loosen Lugs, put car on jack stands , I just used the LCA to support it. "see pic below"
    2. Check the pink spots for play, they should not be loose or moveable by hand. If they do they need replaced.
    3. I used an impact to zip off this nut, there is a cotter pin that needs to be removed too. GREEN
      1. If it spins you can put the jack under it to try and add some pressure to keep it from spinning.
    4. Now use a flat head screw driver to open the clamp RED
    5. Slide the boot up, you now have access to the inner tie rod.
    6. upload_2021-10-8_9-15-8.png
    7. Use the tool to clamp onto it where you would put a wrench "if you could fit one"
      1. There is another tool for this but this worked well for me and was cheap. The video shows the other tool and you have to have the outer tie rod off already to use it.
    8. Once it is loose you can take the tool off and thread the entire piece out by hand.
      1. Now use tape to mark where the nut is so that you can take it apart to re-use the boot but keep your alignment close.
      2. DO NOT FORGET - to transfer the boot over before you start to assemble and tighten things.
      3. You want to match the new part as close as you can to the old part so your car drives good enough to get an alignment.
      4. upload_2021-10-8_9-14-35.png
    9. Now re-assemble and re-install the new parts. You will want to use some blue loctite to help keep it all in place. You can use the same tool to tighten the inner as you did to remove it. It just needs to be good and tight not insane.
      1. The washer fits in the key way. and you want to crush it back toward you a bit to pinch the nut on the inner tie rod and keep it from moving. The video explains it. I use channel locks to crush it toward me a bit.
      2. upload_2021-10-8_9-19-27.png
    10. The rest is all pretty simple.

    upload_2021-10-8_9-13-2.png
    upload_2021-10-8_9-13-19.png
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    Well.. I believe that my clunk is gone. I do still hear some noises but it is not the same clunk as it was before. So success ?
     
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