Upcoming parts / service stuff questions

Hi all, new here and have been reading as much as I can. That said, I wanted to lay out my entire plan for this car over the next few months and see if I could get some input / recommendations from you fine knowledgeable folk on common pitfalls to avoid, other service I should perform while I'm elbow-deep in the engine bay, tips / tricks, parts advice, etc etc. So here goes.


// Car's current state / goals:

2010 Mazdaspeed 3, regular 3k mile oil changes, 100k miles on the clock (I've had it since ~78k)
Goal of a reliable 300-400 hp (I know, I'll need a better turbo than the stock k04 if I want anything north of 300 w/out aux fuel)


// Mods currently on car:

Cobb Hi-flow Panel Filter
DM OCC Stage 1
- (no VTA)
DM Short Shift Plate
- (will eventually swap for real short shifter)
DM Motor mount Trio
Cobb APv3 installed
- (was briefly - like, for ~3 hours - running Cobb Stage 1 but backed off that after reading some horror stories about their OTS maps)


// Currently owned / purchased parts:

CS Rear Sway Bar
CS E85 O-Ring HPFP Rebuild Kit
CS HPFP Internals
NGK 1-step colder plugs
CS Injector Seals
TB Gasket
IM Gasket
CS EGR Delete Kit
CS 3.5" Intake + TIP
CS Turbo-back Exhaust
Graveyard Performance Injector Stud kit
Freektune e-tune
cp-e Deltacore TMIC


// Intended Services (aside from installing the above):

Valve Cleaning via either / both B12 + picks / Walnut media
- (we'll see how bad it is at 100k with it likely never having been performed)
Fresh RP Synth Oil Change
- (including this as unsure if I should wait until I've done the HPFP internals before changing)
Basic injector clean
Basic Intake Manifold clean
Fumoto Oil Valve (is this a bad idea for any specific MS3 reason?)


// Things I don't know if I should do now or later:

VCTS delete - any reason I should consider this if I'm not aiming for either built motor soon or 500whp?
Stage 2 OCC - its not that expensive but again, unsure if the ROI is worth it w/out a built motor
TB Coolant Bypass - I see the comments on the 'why' of this around various forums etc but unsure if it should be considered a 'of course you should do that' thing or a 'if ya feel like it'
A real short shifter + bushings instead of / in addition to the SSP - TBH I know I'll end up doing this but just a matter of when
CS Hood Scoop - if I'm sticking with the heat-soakable TMIC (even a great one like a cp-e) I'm thinking I should do this just to enhance reliability but again, unsure how much it helps
New Clutch - how much tq can the stock clutch hold reliably? I read ~340 but not sure if that was accurate, but if it is, I'm guessing I'll be toeing that line after a somewhat conservative 93 tune / e30 tune (getting both)
Some kinda aftermarket BOV / BPV - idk how shit / good / meh the stock ones are, but I guess it's probably something I should do?

I know that's a helluva read, so thank you to anyone who made it to the end. Eventually (read: in probably 6-12 months) I'll be upgrading to a CST4/5, adding a 3.5 MAP sensor, and targeting a reliable 350-370 whp, but for now, (just) the above will be done as a kind of...stage 2ish upgrade.

Based on the parts I've listed, intended service, etc etc, is there anything glaring I'm missing? Anything I absolutely should / should not do / watch out for as I get in there? Any recommendations on order of operations etc? Is this post far too verbose and you looked at a wall of text and said, 'lol fuck that'? Thanks in advance yall.

 

Sounds like you have done some good research so far and are off to a very solid start to making your goals. Only thing I noticed was that you ordered the CS catback exhaust but I didn't see a downpipe mentioned anywhere. If you don't have one then you will want to add that as it is where your best bang for buck power gains will be from what I have heard.

As for the the CST4/5 and aux fuel stuff I am actually about to throw a used cst4 on my car that I got from a member along with a custom 3.5" air intake I made so I will let you know how it goes. Best advice I can give is to do the best possible while doing each install and don't give in to the hurry/excitement of just getting it done. If you find a bolt that is messed up a bit or whatever, address it while you are there (ask me how I know) cuz it sucks having to go back later to mess with it again.

 

I got their turbo back package which includes a down pipe so covered on that front

I appreciate the advice on taking my time. I'm meticulous the first few times going in just because I'm always worried about missing that one small detail so it'll be a fun but slow process. I'm budgeting 2.5 full 12 hour days just in case. I bought metal status today so I'm gonna also peruse that manual heavily while I wait for CS to ship me my exhaust.

 

OEM clutch will generally be good for stock block power limits which is about 400whp. Some people have pushed it further and you might get away with it but a big factor is how you drive and what you plan to do with the car. If you are drag racing and doing hard launches it will not last. If you are just doing street pulls you should get some life out of it.

If you want to get the most out of the stock motor without Aux fuel the CST4 will do that. I made 375whp on e30 tune with a decent amount under the curve. The KO4 can make some decent power but it hits hard and falls quickly after that. A bigger turbo like the CST4 will pull to redline. Good luck on your build.

 

Thank you for the input on the clutch and turbo. Between the CST4/5, I realize the 4 is closer to the k04 in terms of spool time + it holds on longer at the top end, is the CST5 not really well suited to a stock block build? Figure if I'm gonna end up spending the money for a CST4 whats a couple hundred more for a 100hp higher ceiling?

 

CST5 would be good if you had some extra fuel and wanted to get a little more wild on stock block but if you want to stay OEM fueling CST4 will already max that out and you can have a little quicker spool time. If down the road you decide you want more CST5 would be there for that headroom. CST4 supposedly will tap out around 450whp but you would need PI , 6th port , or Meth to do that safely. Getting past stock fueling and power levels is when the money really starts to add up. Built Motor, Port Injection Setup, Better Clutch.

 

Built block is eventually in my future I think...idk I want to keep this daily-able as long as possible, and while I've read good things about built motors lasting on conservative tunes, I realize that going to built + port injection etc to support all that will be another 6-10k...Thanks again for your expertise.

 

The coolant bypass is one of those things that’s so easy to do, you might as well do it. Our BPV is good for stock turbo usually, really just a sound thing. I recommend Tial

 

HPFP upgrade: can be done anytime dont need to wait for oil change, good choice of oil RP is good but if coming from rotella do a short interval change first as rotella does not play well with other oils.
valve cleaning: B-12 + blast should get you just fine, would have some picks on hand just incase, also to get any oem seals out.
Fumoto Oil Valve: I'm not partial to them I know people swear by them I've always thought they're sketch but that's me.
VCTS del: will get you some more flow but meh? better off buying an aftermarket intake manifold for flow balance.
Stage 2 OCC: can help with breathing sure, I think most will agree stage 1 is good for normal boost operations on a gen2 valve cover (revised baffle)
TB Coolant bypass: if you drive you car anywhere near freezing temps don't, when i was seeing just -5C in the winter cold throttle was doodoo -10C even worse. For your summer car or if you live in non freezing climate it's good because the coolant wont warm up your TB and thus your boost air.
CS Hood scoop: yup increases flow to TMIC -> is it worth the price tag, not IMO until the other things are done.
short shifter VS SSP: yup ditch that SSP, I was having shifting issues with my SSP, took it off no more shifting issues, I miss the short throws, shifter assembly does not have the same issues
BPV: I would recommend GFB or Tial, oem can handle the k04 just fine.
clutch: oem good for up to about 400 WTQ, stock block stock clutch should be just fine.
Injector clean: take it to a shop for a full service and flow test so that they clean it ultrasonic and replace the filter baskets.
Looks like you have read a lot and you're on the right track

recommendation Injector clean: take your injectors for a full clean and flow test, they'll ultrasonic clean them and replace the filter baskets then ensure proper flow, you're going to all this work to rebuild the HPFP and clean valves really taking care of the car with proper oil ETC take care of those injectors.

SS brake lines: one of my best upgrades yet really improves pedal feel

 

A couple things not noted that you'll need to do with the 3.5" intake is extending the 5/8" (I think that's the size?) heater line that runs underneath the turbo inlet.

Additionally, you'll need to relocate your ECU. I recommend this even with a 3" intake as I found that mine was rubbing the ECU.

 

Oh good catch on the heater line! It's 5/8" yes, hose Barb, two clamps and some heater hose from napa etc

 

I'll need to do this soon as well. How much length do people usually add? 4-5 inches?

 

Yup 4" should do see pic I posted to that's a kit that htp sold/sells

 

Great advice w/ the TB - I live in MD, and it gets into the teens in winter so if I did that, I'd have to reverse it for winter. Would it be feasible to create something like the below to...I guess toggle it for warm / cold weather? Or am I creating unnecessary points of failure?

I'll definitely get the SS brake lines too while I'm at it, and I'm thinking maybe spring for the short shifter ASAP. I've had a few issues getting into first (mild, like have to shift out / back in) before so I know what you mean. I've seen a video where a MS3 guy talks about how every blown tranny he's seen on an MS3 had one of those SSP's installed so I probably should have already removed it...

I'm also gonna start looking around my area for who's reliable / trusted w/ injector servicing. You're right - if I'm doing all this other stuff, including replacing the injector o-rings already, I should get a proper (read: not DIY) clean / test on them.

Great advice all-round, thank you very much sir! (also lmk if you think that TB idea is a bad one lol)

Ah - thank you, excellent info I definitely had no clue about.

1) Heater core line - HTP is out of those kits, is it kosher to just buy the various parts from the hardware store independently and cobble one together as long as I use hi-temp hose?
2) ECU Relo - I saw on CS's site they recommended this but CS's box is apparently somewhat flimsy plastic, did you use a 51r box / relo box or just do it yourself / what did you do?

 

I have up on going between TB coolant bypassed and not, I just leave it connected meh.

You can simply buy some 5/8" heater hose, double male hose Barb and 2 hose clamps and you'll be laughing it's the same thing.

Ecu relocation: most just velcro or double side tape it to the top of the fuse box, take off the ecu housing side of the stock battery box and undo the white plastic holder in the harness that sets between the battery and the block (you'll see it when you're in there). And presto ecu relocated out of the way of the intake. Alternatively you can also attach it to the front of your stock battery box if you get creative. I have the original CS battery box to fit a full sized battery and the ECU and it's alright hate taking the battery out. There's been a couple of revisions since that seem to be improved design. Point is aftermarket tray and battery is not needed

 

Copy that, ty for the help! It's such a simple back and forth it's probably not worth creating a makeshift valve system to turn on / off the coolant to the TB lol

 

I just leave mine hooked up and dont worry about it. dont even know where the hose Barb I had went.

 

you technically dont NEED to extend the heater hose, you can just rest it on top of the inlet like my lazy ass but i highly recommend doing it lmao. Looks cleaner and will save some space and struggle.

 

I live in Iowa where it gets to -30f sometimes "it's dumb" I have had no issues with the bypass or the TB sticking at all when driving it in the winter. I have had the TB coolant bypassed for 4+ years now and DD the car.

 

interesting difference in experience between you and I, that being said I do not let it idle to 120f before driving just enough that RPMs drop, plugged in with block heater in that temp too