Valve Cleaning, How To Do It and Why?

Happy New Year Mazdaspeed Family!

I wanted to Share a Blog I wrote last year, as I feel it would benefit a few DIY guys. As most of you know, valve cleaning is a regular maintenance procedure that many of us have gone through, or still need to. I get asked ALL the time by up and coming Mazdaspeed owners, or even new Skyactiv owners on how to clean the intake valves. For those that are not super familiar with this process, this is your one stop tutorial on what needs to be done, and with a full tool list, and a video!

Hope you enjoy.

https://corksport.com/blog/how-to-clean-your-intake-valves/


Regards,
Brett@CS

 

Very nice write up. This will help to guide a lot of people doing this for the first time.

I did this last weekend and appreciate your recommendation to everyone on the long picks.

I used a long round file and 90* pick to loosen up the crud. I did NOT use B12. It's already kind of a messy job without it. Between scraping with the picks and the media blasting, I found it to be enough.

Good stuff!

 

Definitely appreciate you taking the time to give me some feedback! Those long picks are certainly needed. Sounds like that file you used is basically the same thing. As long as it works!

 

Same process we used, except long flathead screwdrivers for the scraping bc we didn't have picks lol. That B12 really does the trick if you let it soak for a bit, then alternate scrubbing and blasting until clean.

 

yeah absolutely. Just tedious! But the final results are always pleasing.

 

Just did mine a few weeks ago. 5 Hours start to finish. I don't have compressed air so I used B12, engine brushes and picks. The difference between dirty valves and clean valves is crazy. My engine runs so Fing smooth now.

 

Good to know we don't need a damn air compressor. I'll likely do the Rusty method myself

 

I've done it 4 times so far. Gets easier every time.

The best pointer I can give you is to remove the battery and entire intake. Trust me it take like 15 extra minutes but it saves you hours. The first time I left the intake in place added an 2 and a half extra hours of fighting the EGR dump tube and various bolts.

Also, if you're using engine brushes triple check that you vacuumed any bristles that may have dislodged while cleaning. You don't want that crap getting in your engine.

Lastly, I recommend replacing the intake manifold gasket with a thermal insulating gasket from JBR while you're at it. Once that stock gasket is removed it's prone to leaking.

 

The manifold gaskets from Adapted Performance are nice too.

That's why they recommend the long picks to loosen up the crud. No worries about stray bristles.

 

AP gasket FTW

 

On my spring to-do list. We’ll see how much carbon on 86k.

 

What if you already have the JBR TIG? Do you still have to replace after each cleaning or can you re-use it?

 

Toss it and replace with the far superior @Adapted_Performance superTIG.

 

+1 for AP Gasket. Best on the market IMO. And, it is reusable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

No you can reuse it. I've cleaned a couple times and reused the JBR tig no issues.

 

About to attempt to clean mine.
, thanks for the info guys.

 

I really need to do mine this spring. Debating buying a compressor or trying the rusty method without blasting. Skipping the blasting would reduce the mess in my garage.

 

Honestly the mess really isn't all that bad if you do a good amount of wrap over the engine bay. Typically, I just have to wrap up the plastic in the end, and all the walnut goes in the trash with it.

If you have the hose routed through the shopvac, it gets 90% of the media


-Brett

 

Glad that it was helpful!!

 

Spring is here and about to clean my valves at 120k. Last time I had the manifold off the valve stems had some hellacious carbon up on them. Any other way to find TDC besides turning the crank by hand? In gear and spin a wheel?