Atom's Speed6

Bought the speed last August. I was so excited. Then randomly I started getting overboost issues nonstop, which is super great when you drive on the highway every day. It got to the point where I'd overboost just leaving my driveway and driving 17mph in my neighborhood.

So... After digging into that overboost issue, not resolving it, and dealing with all the "kustom werk" done by the previous owner who, "knew everything about speeds", l decided to say screw it and swap motors and basically rebuild 80% of the car.

Currently car has been on jack stands since late November of last year. Finally got the engine bay cleared out enough to clean up and prep for primer/paint. Going to repaint the car. I'll be doing a hypershift paintjob on it.

Getting a stage 2 motor built from Damond and I have this laundry list of parts:


Installed:
Cobb AP
Sure Dreadnaught rear diff brace

TO BE INSTALLED:
Stage 2 Longblock
Manley HTuff rods
625+ head studs
Mahle 2618 pistons
King bearings
Upgraded valve springs for 8k rpm
Keyed crank




Will be installed as engine is put back in:
Grimspeed EBCS
Damond PS Cooler
Corksport HPFP (E85 Safe HPFP O-Ring Rebuild Kit)
Overspeed Injector Seals
Subframe Solid Aluminum Bushings
Steering Rack Solid Aluminum Bushings
Racing Beat Front Sway Bar
Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar
AWR Front Endlinks
Godspeed Rear Toe Links
Firewall Brace - DTP
Circuit Werks 3" full exhaust system
Circuit Werks 3" Catless downpipe
CPe exhaust manifold
Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers
Split Second Controller
Injector Dynamics ID1050X Injectors
Fore Innovations -6 PTFE Fuel Line
JMF V2 Port Injection Intake Manifold
Treadstone TR1035 FMIC
WOT Box
Damond Dual Oil Catch Can Kit
Damond PCV Plate
Techna-Fit Stainless Brake and Clutch cables
ACT HD/Race Sprung 6 Pad Clutch Kit, Streetlite Flywheel
Damond Motorsports ARP Flywheel Bolts and Nord-Lock Washer Combo
Billet tcase caps - Damond
Rebuilt Tcase
AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump Ethanol
Vacuum Block
Brake Caliper Bushings - Damond
BNR S5 Turbocharger
Tial 44mm wastegate
Damond Motor Mount full set
3.5" HTP Intake
Bosch 3.5" bar map sensor
EBC USR Slotted Rotors
G-LOC Brake Pads
Throttle Body Spacer
GFB TMS Respons Blow Off Valve Kit
CX Racing Intercooler Piping Kit
MPS Auto Injector Stud Kit
Short Throw Shifter kit
Oil Temperature and Pressure Gauge Adapter Plate - Corksport
EGR Delete Block - Damond
Treadstone Crash Bar
Wire tucks
DI Harness
Coil Harness
SSC Adapter
SSC Plug
MAP adapter
New water pump
New AC Compressor
New Radiator
New Condenser
New front DTA axles
New Starter
Cleaned/Flowtested Injectors - CW Turbochargers
Graveyard Returnless PI setup
New Clutch Master Cylinder
Mazdaspeed6 Upgraded Slave Kit - xspeedfab
AC Line tuck - Racethetix
Coil Pack Rotation plate - Racethetix
Coil Pack Cover - Racethetix
Water Block - Damond
Route lines for GlowShift gauges:
Volt Gauge
Pyrometer EGT Gauge
Dual Intake Temp Gauge
Oil Pressure Gauge
Narrowband AFR Gauge
Boost Gauge


I'll probably recirculate my dumptube into the downpipe. I can't think of anything else, but I'm probably missing something.

Once all that's installed, I'll toss it on the dyno at Graham Rahal Performance and work with them and Damond to get the tune complete.

After all that's done, it's onto the interior:
Yanked the regular stereo and bought a fancy Chinesium Tesla style radio from the reputable dealer AliExpress. Sound didn't work from that so.... Replacing all the speakers (JBL studio), yanking out the bose sub, speakers and amp, probably do the speed3 seat swap, wash the carpet out, rewire all the speakers, two amps, one for speakers, one for sub. I'll probably try to find a way to fab in the sub in a way that doesn't eat my trunk space. I'll be doing a 360 camera install, getting Terlizzi headlights, Morimoto fogs, and I have a set of V3 LED taillights to install.

Bodywork:
Pretty gnarly rust, as per usual, on the driver side rear quarter. Bought a patch panel for that. Bought a parts car for a few other things like a replacement driver side rear door and a few other items. Then fix the random dents. Once the body work is complete, then I can do paint and wheels. I haven't decided on the wheels yet, but I'll have plenty of time between now and then to figure that out. I also ordered a SRT style CF hood, but I presume the car will be finished before that actually gets shipped to me, which is fine. Haven't decided on what kind of side skirts, front lip, or diffuser I want to go with. I'll figure it out before painting.

 

The racingbeat FSB is ridiculously stiff. It takes a ton of rear stiffness to balance it out and the whiteline rear bar doesn't come close to accomplishing that. If you ever think you'll autocross/track the car, you might want to consider the Steeda bar for the Ford Fusion. If not, you'll probably like the additional response of the RB bar just for general driving.


Do the Godspeed rear toe links work the for the MS6? I know the regular 6 toe links don't carry over to the MS6, but idk about the godspeed links.

 

Rey custom made them from the M6 for a short period of time. I happened to see him post it when he made them.

Since I'm not going to be putting a roll-cage in it, I don't believe I'll be able to autocross/track the car. That being said. If the racing beat FSB is so stiff that it is going to make my ride uncomfortable, then I'll look at a different avenue for that.

 

I don't think it'll make the ride suck, it will just be an understeering turd at the limit lol.

 

Is it better to upgrade to the Steeda or replace the Racing Beat with something else?

 

You just went all in on it huh?

 

I see the graveyard returnless PI kit does that mean it's a graveyard block as well?
curious why the BNRS5 when you have an exhaust manifold capable of a different flange? and PI.

 

I kinda have a penchant for overkill.

Honestly, I went BNRS5 because I didn't know any better. It's a Damond block. I've been going back and forth on it, tbh. Power goals sit between 550-650, and I wanted to do a build where I didn't have to worry about doing aux fueling. At least not at first. I'm open to suggestions about potentially switching up turbos if it makes more sense.

 

have you already purchased the turbo? it'll get you too your power goal however the OEM exhaust flange flows poorly if you haven't purchased it something like a pte turbo 5858 / 6266 might be the play as it'll give you faster spool the pulsar brand ones have been proven to work at lower costs.

 

I have purchased the turbo, but I'm not opposed to selling it and buying a different one. Might make more sense to get a different turbo and work with DTP to get a custom downpipe. If I got a PTE turbo what all would I be looking at? (I'm asking that as I start to do my own research)

 

Oem exhaust flange isn’t the problem… people have made 600-700whp on stock exhaust flange. The issue is the stock exhaust manifold itself. Also pulsar turbos are trash. They are only good for show. Plus no 6266 turbo is spooling faster then a bnrs5.

 

if you've already purchased it then I wouldn't trying to off load it to go with another brand that's me, was only a thought if there was an opterunity. the S5 will get you your power goals. important part is the intake and exhaust manifolds which you have. yes you'd have to reach out to DTP for a DP however I think that's a pretty common item for him so shouldn't be too hard, then there's multiple guys making the oil feed and drain lines for them and iirc no need for coolant.

okay there buds, just because people have gotten there on stock flange doesn't mean you can't get there faster with a non stock flange.
and yes pulsars are just fine there's multiple people here who have run them you should do some reading around here before making claims like that.
really if someone wants spool time you go EFR.

 

DTP doesn't make custom pipes for the stock flange turbos. I'll probably just end up going to a shop in town to get something fabbed up if I don't like the sound of the dump tube going under the car. I have no desire to run a dump tube through my hood.

 

Pulled the subframe sanded and grinded the bay to remove all the rust. Put down a coat of rust remover/treatment and two coats of Eastwood epoxy primer. I've got an idea for what color I'm gonna paint and I'm gonna blatantly assume it'll annoy people but I don't care because it'll bring me joy lol. Need to sandblast the subframe as it's a complete surface rust playground. Work continues....

 

Early Christmas present to myself showed up in the mail todayyyyy

 

Christmas quickly turned into the naughty list when I opened up my transfer case

 

I'd just grab a CX7 transfer case and never look back. Swap the input shaft and seals, bolt it on.

 

In hindsight, I'd have done this. But I already grabbed a second TCase. If I ever have to do it again, I'll keep that in mind.

 

Subframe and some other items freshly sandblasted.

 

Fun fact, for the exactly 0 people who will probably do this, if you need to block off your brake booster to sand off surface rust, a traditional 1-5/8th > 1-3/4" rubber bathtub stopper will absolutely fit perfectly.