Bought not Built

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by jdab555, Sep 10, 2021.

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  1. Mtnbker3531

    Mtnbker3531 Platinum Member

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    Sweet new DD!
    I did my front wheel bearings a couple years ago and used the Harbor Freight kit. Pressed them in and out no problem I didnt have a bench at the time so I ended up working on the floor with my vise bolted to some home made speed ramps. Getting the snap ring in and out of the knuckle was the worst part!

    Have you had a chance to drive the car on the new bushings? I have a full set of the Power Flex stuff for the entire rear end.

    Frt Wheel Bearings - Copy.jpg
     
  2. jdab555

    jdab555 Greenie Member

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    I used almost that exact kit, no problems with the Drivers side, but the passenger side for some reason wouldn't come out, threads started to give on the shaft and I called it.

    Haven't had a chance to really dog it yet, just some mild street pulls to check the setup is back in order, only blew off one loosely attached coupler, but everything feels minty. March will be the time to tell the true results, but anything is better than what was essentially no bushing at all.
     
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  3. jdab555

    jdab555 Greenie Member

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    Small update:
    Picked up ARP Extended studs from a few different sellers on facebook, all BNIB but less than half the total cost of new. Installed without issue to accommodate the new 12mm spacers I picked up.
    20240128_202403.jpg
    20240201_211020.jpg
    ^why you need extended studs with wheel spacers

    Now that basically everything I wanted to do over the winter is done (5 months later), I'm going in for a custom alignment prior to the track season, especially since I no longer have to drive the car up to track events.

    Can anyone recommend what my exact specs should be for a pretty aggressive track alignment, with the understanding that I'm on 225 tires now which will be going to 245 once those wear out? Looking for -1 camber on the rear, but not sure what my other specs should be all around.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2024
  4. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    0 toe all around. Maybe 1/16 toe out if you want a little spicer turn in/rotation
    -3* front camber to start. Read tire wear. Adjust as necessary
    -1.5* rear camber. Read tire wear. Adjust as necessary
    Castor: as much as humanly possible up front. Kinda shit on this chassis as it’s not adjustable and the castor adding bushings are like 2 million dollars


    Start with the above. This will get you very close. There is no one size fits all however. You will need to read tire wear and make changes based on what it’s telling you
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Feb 5, 2024
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  5. jdab555

    jdab555 Greenie Member

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    Was hoping you would chime in - thanks! That's what I was cognitively trending towards, probably kick the toe to the 1/16 to help with a particular corner I want to defeat this year.
     
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  6. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    I ran similar specs on my speed

    1/16 toe out up front
    -3.5* camber front
    -1.75* camber rear


    That was what worked for my car for most of my ownership
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Feb 5, 2024
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