DISI-MZResponse 2.0

Car is down, again; time for more pics, and some more info.
First, more pics of the fart tubes:

Alternator clearance is good (more than I had, I think)


02 sensor is a bit closer to the mani than I'd like, but that's my fault, not DTPs (more on this later).


Another clearance pic


EFR WGA is just about touching the firewall, if not rubbing directly. I'll have to look into this further to know for sure but the work I've already done has put me in the hurtlocker so I won't be subjecting myself to this check for a bit.


So, about this nice ass DTP stuff I had made...Well, I only sent him the hotside. This turned out to be a huge mistake, as EFRs are...oddly sized. So, the WGA prevents the long DP from connecting cleanly to the CS 3" catback, as there winds up being a gap. Fortunately, there was a length issue with the Full-Race downpipe as well, so I already had a spacer for it. UNFORTUNATELY, that spacer is too big, so the turbo and everything is smashed up against the block to make the spacer fit. This will eventually be corrected with either a new spacer or a vband rework of the downpipe and catback (Spacer is probably cheaper/easier though).


Now for the current hurdle:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7NtFdccgUlM

I'm reasonably sure the basket outlet nipple is still good, as it should only have a few thousand miles on it (was swapped out the last time I did the ITFP swap, earlier in this thread). Thus, I've ordered a new hose ($90, hella ouch) but I'm getting some other goodies to go with it. Nothing major just stuff I've wanted to replace/fix for a bit.

If anyone is wondering, yes, I had the hole sealed off:


I was smelling fuel, and found out last night that my back seat was soaked, despite having foam, screws and tape on everything.

 

I also had o2 sensor clearance fun. Builder used a heat shield and zero issues. 1500 miles on it so far.

 

Half the shit I ordered (including that fuel hose) is apparently discontinued/unavailable.

 

Rock auto time.

 

I've been informed that the one I selected was apparently California only.

 

Hahaha wtf was it?

 

The fuel line going from the tank basket to wherever the fuck it goes under the car.

 

Can't you just get it for 0.45$ at the parts store and zip tie it in place?

 

You mean just a regular hose? Not super comfortable with that.

BTW anyone have the ass end of their genwon in the air right now that can take a pic of where this shit connects to under the gas tank?
Realized I have some leftover fittings and might be able to just make my own...maybe.

 

Regular fuel hose

 

No pictures, but it snaps into the tank and drops right in front of it if I remember right.

 

I'm asking because I have some 5/16 locking fittings (like you see on the HPFP for the yellow and blue lines) but I'm not sure if there's room for them.

 

So hose swap was a cinch.
After waiting 3 weeks for it to show up.
...And then the nipple on the basket broke off.


So I'm still down and now I either need to buy a new basket assembly or figure out some kind of alternate fueling arrangement.

Open to ideas, but my initial one is to flapper disk down the existing outlet, seal it with RTV, and use some kind of AN bulkhead fitting to make my own outlet setup.

 

Parts ordered; let's see if this works out.

Some quick measurements:
Barb inlet height: 25.5mm (inside tank, from deck)
Webbing height: 8.2mm
Deck thickness: 3.2mm
Nipple outlet block height: 22.1mm
Total: ~50mm (50.8mm)

Not sure how much room to expect between the barb for the inlet (under the cap) and the fuel pump; hopefully have enough room though.

 

I forget who but someone did what you are proposing and it worked

 

Hello
Is it me you're, lookin for?

Back again with more fueling fuckery.

Used a hacksaw to remove the bulk of the stock plastic nipple (that broke off) of the top of the basket, then followed that up with an angle grinder flapper disk (that's a sandpaper disk if you don't know). Then drilled it out with an I don't know the actual size but somewhere around 13.5mm or 1/2" drill bit (-6 AN threads are like 14mm diameter), and followed that up with a stepper bit that was right at 14mm / 9/16" (hand use only, did not put in the drill; this was actually super easy to do by hand).

With some side cutters (aka dykes), I was able to clear out enough webbing to get the bulkhead 90 to fit properly:




I also replaced the stock corrugated nylon line with an aftermarket one:

This one was larger ID than stock, I believe, and about 1.5" shorter. Ultimately, may allow for more overall volume of flow, at the cost of a bit of pressure (not that it should be an issue, but time will tell). The hose spins mostly freely on the pump body, but is a bit tighter on the AN barb; this is roughly the same behavior as the stock setup (yes you can spin the hose on the pump body/barb pretty easily).

A quick tug suggests that neither side is going to give up and let go without some kind of parts breakage. Also, I used my soldering iron hot air rework station (basically a tiny heat gun) to make the hose easier to install; just don't overdo it if you decide to undertake this mod.

All assembled and squished to the max:

I'd like to note here that the stock setup has the hose coming straight down, and the barb it attaches to is basically as long as the side wall on the top part of the basket; this *should* mean that I have even more clearance, since the basket generally only collapses about an inch overall when installed into the fuel tank. Thus, fitment *should* be better and overall effective length of the hose to where the original stock barb was should be at least equal if not longer overall despite the shorter hose.

I'd also like to note that what you don't see in the above pictures is that I added two zip ties to the AN barb, and one to the pump barb just to be safe; there's a lip on both sides but I wanted to make sure even if it did slip it wouldn't be able to just pop off.

Still waiting on parts to complete this setup, so more to follow in a later post.

List of parts purchased and tools required:

Tools:
1. Hacksaw
2. Angle grinder with sandpaper (flapper) disk
3. Drill with 13.5mm ish or 1/2" bit
4. Stepper bit that has a 14mm or 9/16" step (hand only, do not use in drill or you will have regrets); you are using this only until you can get the bulkhead fitting to sit flush to the top, though you may wind up going back and forth between this step and step 5
5. Side cutters / dykes for cutting out webbing around the drilled hole and removing flashing / plastic flaps resulting from drilling
6. Heat gun for softening the corrugated tubing
7. Small vice so you can more easily push the corrugated hose onto the barbed AN fitting (the basket portion was actually pretty easy without the vice, but the fitting is too small to handle properly without gorilla hands)
8. Maybe a file to help with removal of flashing and/or webbing
9. Right stuff RTV / Hondabond / other fuel safe RTV and/or some kind of fuel safe epoxy (don't epoxy or RTV this thing until you know what angle everything will live the rest of its life at with certainty)



Parts (note that prices listed are for Amazon, and you can probably save a fair bit of money by just being patient and ordering from Summit or Jegs:


5/16" (8mm) x 6" (150mm) In Tank Submersible Fuel Corrugated Flexible Hose Line (e85 compatible)
$13 for two (one needed)




Female 6AN to 5/16 Hose Fuel Fittings 90 Degree Swivel
$10 for two (one needed)




6AN Male to Male 90 Degree Bulkhead Flare Fitting
$13 for two (one needed)




Vibrant Performance -6AN to 5/16in Hose Barb Push On EFI Adapter
$18 for one
Note that this fits the factory plastic hardline that connects to the basket/tank just fine


This one is a maybe, not 100% sure until I get it fitted/mocked up before final assembly:


90 Degree Swivel Female 6AN to Female AN6 Coupler
$16 for one (because I was too lazy to look for a less expensive one)


All in, I'm looking at roughly $70 for this basket mod, vs $300 - $360 for the full assembly:

Not real sure which one is required here, but you get the idea.

 

One thing after another. Last week, I gradually lost cylinder #4 on the way home from running errands; this is what it sounded like when I got home:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/CBysjydJiOo

Just checked all the plugs today, and, of course, #4 was DRENCHED in oil, but the others looked normal. Found the ticking noise, it's leaking exhaust from the vband (!?) connecting the uppipe to the turbo, towards the block. This is what it sounds like with the vband tightened to max and a new (ish) plug in #4:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-CRx84R1tEY

Considering doing a leakdown, but it's probably pointless at this point.

 

How's that new engine coming?

 

I'm still on step 1:

1. ???

 

OK kids, gather around for story time with Uncle Enki.

First off, let's have a look at the injector ports:



Got some gnasty goin on here. Note that cyl 4 has the seal stuck in there; I'ma need the Sherrif to evict it.

Next, a real surprise:


This, folks, is the inside of my fucking fuel rail (at the part where the PRV and inlet are).
What is it? Good question. Best estimate is fully broken down engine oil; shit felt like a deteriorated kitchen sponge but made out of carbon, and while squishy, it came apart very easily. When the fuel dried out, it was pretty fucking sticky, so that's why I'm leaning towards oil.

Best guess: excessive crankcase pressure led to oil being pushed into the HPFP; won't know more till I pull the pump. Yet another reason to make sure you have adequate evac.

So going down the list:

1. Injectors are fucked (even if they aren't would you trust them? Cause I don't).
2. Block and/or head are likely damaged. With how much oil was on injector 4, there's no way there isn't something bad visible.
3. Everything is drenched in oil. Disgusting.
4. My wiring is a fucking mess, so at least that will be getting cleaned up after a while.

So discuss, I guess. Or not. I'm not your real dad.