DISI-MZResponse 2.0

Maybe on the one cylinder. It honestly looks like it's been beat to fuck, and is covered with a hard, crunchy material/ash. Honestly looks like it's been welded on or something.

 

It does look like something was impacting it

 

Looks like my engine does the same magic trick as my dad and changes alcohol into domestic violence.

 

So, uh, car's down.
Took a while, but the exhaust leak became permanent.

@Easter Bunny let's get some analysis going on this if you don't mind:

It's bent up because I had to bend it a bit to get it out; I'm pretty certain it folded itself down from heat inside the housing causing an L shape in the gasket.
EDIT: The ragged edges are hard and brittle, while the rest is pretty ductile.

Storytime:
A ways back, Awa came and visited. I did a pull and it sounded especially gnarly; turns out a couple of the bolts holding the turbo in were loose, and the pull I did caused the gasket to partially melt. Tightened the three remaining studs back down (still nasty loud on throttle because only half the gasket was there) and finally, on the Friday before last I go to start it up and it was way, way louder than what had come to be known as normal.

Couldn't be fucked to bother with it last weekend, knowing what I would probably find, so did it this weekend. It took me longer to get dressed than to give up on this; there is, at most, two studs still present but it's likely that only one of them is actually there or tight; the ones at the back are gone completely, and the one I can see/touch has a loose nut.

I never really liked how Full-Race decided to mount this thing. Those studs are super tiny, considering. With a quick check, it doesn't appear that they are selling the turbo kit any longer, nor the hardware I'd need to fix this; color me surprised.

Anywho, the idea I have to get me back up and running is to buy a CS manifold with the PTE vband setup, a plug for the EWG and then a VBand .85 IWG hotside for the EFR; the vbands are very close in dimension and even if it leaks it won't be as bad as what I have now, plus it will be much easier to reinstall the turbo.

If anyone has any thoughts or anything, please feel free to chime in.

 

Why not just put in new higher grade hardware for it? Chase all the threads in the manifold and turbo, install new studs/bolts with loctite and send it. Should be fine again.

 

What size were the studs? Might have just not had them tight enough on initial install to survive heat cycles.

I agree though just get higher grade hardware and crank the hell out of it.

Once the gasket started to fail the studs would have had no chance of staying right

Post a picture of the flange if you can for reference and make sure you check that both surfaces are flat before you put it back together

 

Are cotter pins / safety wire not well established things to do for troublesome high temp areas?

 

Went out and had another look; from the top:

1. There is only one stud holding the turbo in place, though the nut is loose and won't come out so I'm certain the only thing actually holding it where it is are the downpipe, intake, and whatever sideloading is happening on that stud.
2. Full Race doesn't have the stud kit for this setup on their site anymore; the ones they *do* have are over $40 for 4 nuts, washers and studs
3. Whatever these studs are, I'm pretty sure it's some kind of exotic material as they are black and have a crystalline reflectivity to them (I've never seen any kind of material like it before)
4. I'm pretty sure they are M6 studs
5. In order to prevent this from happening yet again, I'd have to fuck up the ceramic coating and clearance most of the face areas so that the lock washers and nuts will actually fit.
6. Installing this turbo and manifold setup with the engine in the car will suck tremendously, so if it has to come out, I ain't gonna put it back in. Hell just the manifold install sucks royally, and the turbo to manifold install is even worse because of clearance and access issues.
7. I mostly want the Full-Race parts gone off my car.

So, that's my excuse.

 

They can't be M6. My quik latches use an M6. Looking at their pics, it almost looks OEM. M10x1.50x44.50mm long are OEM spec.

 

That's not correct though. I distinctly remember saying to my self "Are these gonna hold?" When I went to install this shit the first time. They are, indeed, TINY.

EDIT:
Some reference shots that you might be able to make out the size on here:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/disi-mzresponse.457/page-9#post-32435
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/disi-mzresponse.457/page-10#post-35040
And the post immediately after the one above.

 

Might be 8MM. https://www.full-race.com/store/fab...m8-inconel-turbo-stud-hardware-kit-t25-turbos

 

Even if it is, I really don't want to deal with this issue again and it *will* happen again unless I clearance the shit out of everything, which I'd rather not do as it's going to eat into the welds and the piping/housing. I'll post pics of what I mean after the mani and turbo are uninstalled this weekend.

 

I totally feel ya. Someone will buy your manifold. I have the CS manifold, but no other feedback as the engine is in 1000 pieces for a cabin filter level 400 swap.

 

I sent a message to Derrick last night, just waiting to hear back. It's entirely possible that the vband housing for the EFR will work with the PTE elbow on the CS mani.

 

Email barett@corksport.com, he can tell you.

 

I've actually already had that conversation, and while it looks good on paper, I'm not 100% yet. I may have to bite the bullet and get a hotside and their elbow to know for sure.

 

I'm still in the get studs made of something exotic for strength and torque the ever living shit out of it.

The thickness of the steel flange on the manifold should take plenty of torque

Edit realized I never gave you a final engineering opinion..




Installer error lol

 

But...Vband assembly...

 

Yeah, a grade 10 would be good. Just need to find a source. Fastenal comes to mind.

 

Isn't inconel already the good stuff?