Engine won’t turn over/start

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3/6 Engine' started by jsilva, Jun 3, 2020.

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  1. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    The ongoing saga of my Speed6...! :)

    Yesterday I replaced the fuel injector wiring harness and PCV valve (this is connected to my P2138 thread in terms of why I replaced them though not related in terms of the problem).

    Now my Speed6 won’t turn over at all. The starter works, it’s just failing to start like if there were no fuel. This morning I went back in to see if I didn’t connect something and the only thing I found is that a gasket was out of place and possibly blocking some pins on the connector from the injector wiring harness. I put it back in place and no improvement. I had tested the wiring harness for continuity between all of the corresponding pins before I installed it.

    The engine was starting before I replaced the 2 parts, and as far as I can see everything is connected as it should be.

    Any tips would be appreciated...!
     
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 3, 2020
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  2. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Ground wire to hpfp?
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Jun 3, 2020
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  3. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    I’ll check it out tomorrow Raider, thanks.
     
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 3, 2020
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  4. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    I tested both wires on the HPFP connector for continuity to ground and both failed.

    I’ve never done electrical troubleshooting on a car. Are there any tips? Following wiring seems like a difficult task, especially since a lot of it is in tubes and not visible.
     
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 4, 2020
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  5. Eroler1

    Eroler1 NPC Greenie Member

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    I think he meant the ground wire connected to the HPFP housing for the coil packs.
     
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  6. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Oh ok Eroler, thanks for clarifying. I took off the hpfp when I replaced the head gasket but that was 6 months ago and I don’t remember a ground wire connected to it. I do remember one wire connected to to a metal piece in front of the hpfp though (toward the front of the car). Is that the one?

    I’ll have a look tomorrow.
     
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 4, 2020
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  7. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic. #BlackLivesMatter Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Yes, that is the one ground that gets a lot of people in trouble.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Jun 5, 2020
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  8. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    upload_2020-6-5_9-6-18.png
     
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  9. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Platinum Member

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    Do you just have a giant folder with pictures of every part of the car?
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Jun 5, 2020
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  10. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    I use google photos and take a lot of pics while working on it, it has been a life saver many times.
     
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  11. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Thanks :) I was expecting that I’ll disconnect the wire and then test the wire for ground. Perhaps I damaged it somewhere.
     
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 5, 2020
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  12. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    I checked it out today. There is ground on that wire. Additionally, there is continuity between the ignition coil connector (middle pin) and that ground wire and also the negative terminal on the battery. (I only checked the ignition coil on cylinder 1 so that I didn’t have to remove the intercooler, but that at least verifies there is ground available.)

    Any other thoughts?

    Edit: is it worth considering that neither wire on the hpfp appears to have a connection to ground? On the wiring diagrams I thought it looked like one of them should have.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2020
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 7, 2020
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  13. Locoyokopoco

    Locoyokopoco Greenie N00B Member

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    I've had my fair share of no starts on my Speed3 haha. Firstly, check actual HPFP pressures if you have an accessport installed. It should be right around 50-60 PSI iirc when the key is turned to the on position. When cranking, that pressure should go up a lot. After cranking, the pressure should drop very slowly, or shouldn't drop for a while (most the time, it actually very slowly rises, then falls). If your fuel pressure starts dropping immediately, you probably have a leak somewhere in your fuel system. For me, it was bad injectors. Replaced all 4 of them and it solved my issues.

    Currently, I'm experiencing a crank and no start again. This time around, I get a P0340 code for bad camshaft position sensor. I pulled it out just now and tested it, and sure enough, no voltage. So waiting on a new sensor to arrive. If you need help checking that sensor, let me know, I'll see if I can make a video or something on doing that.

    Do you happen to have pictures of the current state of your engine bay so I can see if I can identify anything immediately wrong with it?
     
  14. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Thanks Loco. I don’t have an accessport but I do have the ODB Fusion app which has a fuel rail pressure option. That may not be the same thing you’re talking about but worth checking, thanks for the suggestion!

    I’d be happy to post photos of whatever you want to see. Just let me know what.
     
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 8, 2020
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  15. Binary Assault

    Binary Assault Gold Member

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    Is it cranking? Or is it just clicking? There is an engine ignition fuse in the cabin fuse block under the drivers dash. Think it's a 15amp. Outside of that specifically, check fuses for continuity at least.
     
  16. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    It’s cranking fine. Well ... the battery drained down below 12V with all of the starting over the past couple of months (from other problems) and not being able to drive it and so I’ve been having to jump it to test :) I’ll check out that fuse, thanks for suggesting it!
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2020
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 8, 2020
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  17. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Ok. I tried starting while monitoring the Fuel Rail Pressure in the ODB Fusion app. It was at about 45psi before the first start and went up negligibly when trying to start (about 65psi) and stayed about there after I stopped cranking.

    I’m 99.9% confident there isn’t a fuel leak in the high pressure area, and 100% certain there isn’t one bad enough to stop it from starting. (I previously had a pretty bad fuel leak from the pressure sensor—dripping and pooling up—and the engine started usually by the second attempt. That was fixed a while ago.)
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2020
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 10, 2020
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  18. Locoyokopoco

    Locoyokopoco Greenie N00B Member

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    Something maybe wrong with your HPFP. I'm not familiar with the ODB Fusion app, but on the Cobb AP, I see pressures upward of 1000PSI when cranking and starting the engine.
     
  19. jsilva

    jsilva Silver Member

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    Thanks loco. Isn’t it driven by the camshaft lobe? What things could go wrong with it?

    If I remember correctly the hpfp should come off without removing anything else, right? If I just have to take off the fuel line underneath, the two on top, and the 3 or 4 external torx bolts then that’s not a big issue to look into. Though I’m unsure what I’d be looking for...
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2020
    jsilva, via an iPhone, Jun 11, 2020
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  20. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic. #BlackLivesMatter Motorhead Platinum Member

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    If you are not building fuel pressure, you either have HPFP internal problems, or a relief valve that is stuck open and dead.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Jun 11, 2020
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