Getting to know a new car (Speed 6)

I'm looking at buying a speed6 here in my area. It has an engine swap from a '10 Speed 3 with currently 104k miles, and it has a few mods done to it, all seemingly the "approved" and responsible mods one should do to their MZR 2.3's.

It's got:
- GFB BOV
-Corksport Intake
-Corksport high pressure fuel pump internals
-Corksport rear motor mount
-Corksport front upper control arms
-Circuit works Catless Downpipe
-Cobb accessport - ProTuned by freek tune
-Torque Solution Shifter bushings
-Damond Oil catch can with VTA

The car is on 22 Psi currently, and I thought that this was maybe a little bit of a high number. I believe the second gen engines came with forged internals though, correct? Is that a safe boost level for this engine as it currently sits? Also, is a BOV really necessary, or should I look into getting a hybrid?

I also wanted to know about changing the amount of boost it's pushing. If I want to drop it down to 18 psi, would I have to get a different tune entirely for that, or is it as simple as just turning down the boost?

I'm very new to all of this and specifically this engine, so any info is VERY helpful. Thanks

 

Here is a huge reference. https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-when-buying-a-used-mazdaspeed.10009/

Metal Supporting Members get Carfax too.

Yes, get a new tune to clean up the power goals.

 

Mods list looks good, tuner is top tier can't go wrong with Justin at freektune. If he's got fueling dialed in it's probably just fine I've been freektuned on my stock block for a decade now....

If you want to pull it back yeah new tune please only go with freektune or purple drank. Personally I wouldn't be worried about it given the tuner, if you wanted you could always data log it and some folks here could review the data for you.

Personally I'd be more worried about maintenance history, compression test. 104k on the gen2 engine? Has it had vvt done? Because if it hasn't it's due for a timing job.

 

That’s perfect, thank you so much! Yeah I’ll ask about that, i dont recall if he did vvt or timing. Might’ve had it done when the engine was dropped in at 88k 4 years ago.
Also will do a comp test when I go pick it up for sure.

Nice!! Just what I was looking for. Thank you!

When i was test driving it I might’ve heard a certain “clunk” when I dumped the clutch from 1st to 2nd on a light pull… might’ve been a bad road or something… I’m guessing that’s what the diff mount tip is referencing?

also, the only actual evidence of an issue is a tum-tum-tum in one of the rear wheels that goes quicker or slower as I go faster or slower. Maybe a wheel bearing, or something with the brakes?

 

The soon-to-be PO just said that when he put the engine in all cylinders registered at above 150 PSI on a compression test. I wonder if there might be one or more around that number, or else he might've said above 160, etc.

What's the acceptable range for a comp test on the turbo 2.3's? I've read so many things I'd just rather ask some reliable sources here.

He put in the engine 4 years ago but according to him only put on about 30k miles on it since then, and he did spark plugs and some seals that were bad when he swapped it. So far all my suspicions have actually panned out well, which is making me uneasy...

Only thing I still have to check engine-wise when I go to pick it up is the timing chain and turbo play. The timing and the vvt probably haven't been done, as he didnt do it since he's had it. Since the engine probably wont be in TDC, is there any measure of acceptable slack on any given part of the chain for me to know when I go to examine it?

 

150 is in the normal range, there is some variability due to the way people test and the quality/calibration of the gauges