hoodratkp's MS6

Are you certain you are not getting spark? Did you use a spark tester? Is it all coils or just one? If all are not sparking, it still could be wiring. Test the ground wire on top of the HPFP to ground to confirm.

As EB said, battery shouldn't cause this issue.

That code makes me think that it's wiring. Where did this get connected?

 

Yessir I used a spark tester. I definitely haven't checked them all, only one so far. I'll get the others tested and see what I have.

That wire is currently not connected up anywhere it is just hanging as pictured. Someone had said it was related to power steering and I don't have any power steering so I left it

 

Check all coil packs, if one is dead it could be the coil pack, if all are dead it's another issue.

I feel you should confirm where that wire comes from. I'm like 90% sure it's for power steering. Need to be 100% on that though.

 

I don’t have spark on any of them. Tested this evening. I couldn’t confirm where that wire was going to today though. I have a general idea where it runs but didn’t have time to trace it to the source

 

I currently have the radio and center console stuff out of the vehicle as I was planning to put aftermarket radio in. Is there any sort of like immobilizer or anti theft shit that could be causing any of this with all of that stuff currently disconnected?

 

No spark at any coilpack. That usually means it's a bad ground, or bad wiring somewhere.

To my knowledge that shouldn't affect anything having the radio out. But then again, idk for sure. Put them all back in and see if that changes anything. At this point I'd almost do anything to fix it.

 

Pretty sure that connector goes to the power steering pump.

 

shot in the dark but you should check the coil pack harness connector near your HPFP, make sure its all the way plugged in.

 

I am as well, however, I want 100% confirmation that is correct and not something else. Especially considering the wiring has clearly been messed with.

Also a great check. Something that has been overlooked in the past. And possibly now.

 

Thanks again everyone! Will be spending the rest of this week going over every single wire I can find. Will verify everything advised here in the process!!

 

So I tried something for shits and giggles ab 30 mins ago and I was finally able to get the car to start. Put the old camshaft position sensor back in and it fired right up. BUT. We are technically right back to square one once again because I am leaking antifreeze and blowing white smoke out the tailpipe like a god damn chimney. So now i'm thinking I fucked up doing the head gasket somehow and going to cry myself to sleep tonight thinking about doing that work over again.


Side note. One thing that I was unsure of was torque specs for head bolts. I found a document on this forum for torque specs but it says that is for stock. This is what I followed from that thread. "Step 1: 3-11 Nm (27-97 in-lbf)
Step 2: 13-17 Nm (116-150 in-lbf)
Step 3: 43-47 Nm (32-34 ft-lbf)
Step 4: 88°-92°
Step 5: 88°-92°"

Is there a different for ARP studs/bolts? Could I be under torqued not allowing the head gasket to seal properly?

 

Anybody here wanna buy an 07 mazdaspeed6 with 135kish miles

 

Where is it leaking antifreeze, and are you sure the turbo seals aren't blown for the white smoke?

Have you done a compression test yet?

To my knowledge the ARP studs get torqued same as OEM.

Car starts and runs, I wouldn't say back to square one. You've made some progress of sorts.

Don't give up dude. I've had my current MS3 for five years. Motor only just got put in last fall and it still doesn't run. Nature of the beast.

Once she's up and going, you'll have a much better appreciation for her.

 

I don't know exactly where it's leaking from yet. Just know that it still is. So I have to wonder immediately did I put the head gasket on wrong or backwards etc. Will probably have more time again this weekend to dig a little further. Compression is 175 145 125 135 from left to right.

It kind of is square one because it was running before I started all of this with this exact symptom and why I replaced the head gasket. Sure, I have repaired a few things along the way but doesn't solve the main problem. I can't even sit in a drive through with it because it blows smoke so heavy. I Was looking online and found something called stop leak. Have you ever used that before? Don't want it to be a long term solution of course just curious if it stops the smoking.

Love this thing but being unable to commute to work is becoming a problem. I really don't want to give up, idk why but love this car. But at some point if I can't fix it I am just going to have to cut my losses and sell so I can afford to get something to drive. It's a tough situation

 

The more I think about it the more I wonder if I just have a warped block or something.

 

you didn't check the block and head for flatness when you had the head removed?

 

I sent the head off to get pressure tested and resurfaced so confident the head is fine.

But for the block. I didn't check it properly, I am learning. Used a straight edge but no feeler gauge to actually see if it was flat. Just kind of eyeballed that the straight edge looked level and moved on not thinking much of it unfortunately.

 

Go rent a pressure tester from Vatozone and see if you have an external leak, It will start seeping coolant out somewhere like your turbo or EGR turbo feed or a loose clamp.

your compression numbers look odd, earlier you mentioned you had to remeasure your cam tappets - i wonder if having the wrong tappet/bucket would cause the low compression numbers?

 

Compression numbers are bad. Rule of thumb no more then 10% between the highest and lowest cylinder. I.e. max of 20psi gap. Which tells me your rods might be bad.

This isn't a terrible thing, but it's not a good thing either. Many over the years have done what you have done and not had issues. But not properly checking the deck on the block could cause a coolant leak.

Does the exhaust smell sweet?
Is there oil in the coolant?
Coolant in the oil?

Valve lash has to do with valve overlap and timing. If the the lash is too tight, it would cause the valve to open sooner, open wider and stay open longer . That could 100% cause low compression and potentially burn exhaust valves and get compression loss due to the valve not seating quick enough on the compression stroke.

But, to get so many wrong that 3 cylinders are basically dead... Hard to say, but at this point I wouldn't bet against that possibility.

 

At the end of it all. This engine is fucked and the project has to be dead to me, unfortunately. I've spent more money than I ever should have on this and I have to find reliable transportation for my job. Thank you SO much to everyone for your help through this process but I have to cut my losses and sell. Learned a metric fuck ton about speed6s and general mechanical info through trial and error and guidance/knowledge from all of you. Hopefully a few years down the road I will find another speed6 to build again when the time is right.


5k if anyone is interested or trade for running vehicle similar value. Located in VA.