How To - Returnless port injection setup

I thought I would share my port injection setup for all who are interested. It's not the prettiest, or the most amazing thing in the world, but it works very well and can be the cheapest option of full PI if you know where to find used parts and you're good at substitutions. This is a full RETURNLESS style of port injection, meaning no return to the tank and no FPR. Will Dawson at PD said himself that w/ the proper ITFP installed, this method of fueling is good for ~600whp using an E85 mix.

This only works for drop in pumps that use the stock regulator.

I went ahead and made a janky Google Sheet of what I used and the retail prices of each component. A majority of the components you can find used for super cheap, or you can substitute for cheaper fittings and such. Like the injectors I used are expensive and a bit boujee, but you can swap them for some Bosch eBay ones like @Sho uses/used and save a ton of cash.

I will say, if you decide to use this way of PI, swap all the push lock hose out for real AN PTFE lines, and route/wire things better than I did. I will be going back through and shortening the wires and doing new fuel lines hopefully this season. Just use your own judgement on parts to use and where to 'cut corners'.

Here is a screenshot of the Sheet, but I will also give you the link to share:


https://docs.googlee.com/spreadshee...rkqxC4AJX2q9TOZ-L4PPwf2slmlc/edit?usp=sharing (take the extra 'e' out of Google in that link)

I also made a stupid quick video of the setup in person for those who are interested in seeing it IRL and how it is done. The car has been in storage for 3 months, so pardon the dirt and dust:




Please let me know if you need more information or help, i'll be happy to lend a hand.

Nick (sharksinspace) found that Radium offers pre-assembled lines for a pretty reasonable price, if you don't feel comfortable building your own. I recommend using PTFE AN lines over the push lock stuff simply for peace of mind, my push lock has worked FINE and I have had 0 issues with it.
Also, the quick connect adapter fitting does come with a plug blocking off the additional NPT port, but the tape they wrapped the threads in does not seem to be rated for fuel as it quickly disintegrated (in Nick's case. Mine is still okay) If you opt to use said fitting, make sure you re-wrap the plug with the proper materials to prevent leaking fuel into your hot engine bay.

I am in no way responsible if you blow our car up doing this, or if your shit breaks following this. Use common sense buying parts and don't cheap out too much. Buy quality where it counts. Again, I am NOT RESPONSIBLE for ANYTHING that happens to YOUR car when you follow this.

 

Should be noted that this only works for drop in pumps that use the stock regulator. Otherwise, gewd job!

 

Nice write up. This will help alot of people since there alot of confusion with PI.

 

Added to the OP. Thank you for the suggestion

Yep, this makes it much simpler to get into. Seen a lot of people wanting less than 600hp and want to know a good PI setup, well here it is.

 

Time to switch over from meth injection.

 

I would take this budget setup over meth any day of the week and nobody will change my mind. I went from meth to this setup once I got my engine and I do not miss the methanol days.

 

Yes I agree. Meth injection already melted one of my engines due to failure. But it's a Bitch up in Quebec there is no ethanol so that's a no go. But there are other options. I'd like to Max out this S5 before changing setup.

 

BuT ReTuRnLeSs iS wRonG aNd lAZy

 

FWIW, I found that Radium offers pre-assembled lines for a pretty reasonable price, if you don't feel comfortable building your own. They are not full custom, you have to choose from what they have to offer on the website, but there's a lot of variety to be able to find one that will work for you. There are also sites where you can order fully custom assembled lines but you will pay an additional premium for those.

I have my PI setup plumbed using the same Aeromotive fitting to t-off at the hpfp feed, and although I don't have the SS controller connected yet to actually spray anything, I am leak free and seeing appropriate levels of pressure at the PI rail. The fitting did come with a plug blocking off the additional NPT port, but the tape they wrapped the threads in did not seem to be rated for fuel as it quickly disintegrated. If you opt to use said fitting, make sure you re-wrap the plug with the proper materials to prevent leaking fuel into your hot engine bay.

 

I will add these points to the OP. Thanks Nickypoo-sweet ass

 

I pooped today too.

 

send pics

 

So what about set ups where the OEM ITFP line feeds straight to the PI feed, and then the PI return fed the HPFP feed?

Essentially the PI system would be in the middle of the ITFP and HPFP, it seems to me like it would be a smoother feed since the HPFP can bleed out any air that might develop and also maintain a more consistent fuel pressure?

 

That was a setup Will talked about in a video. I just have no experience w/ that method, and you'd be spending a tad more in fuel line and fittings. I guess that method would work if you don't want a deadhead system.

 

This is how my car is configured and I thought that's how everybody did their returnless systems. It's really just 2 hoses and the rail on your coldpipe or intake mani. I have 3 hoses since I have an ethanol sensor in the middle, but not everybody is gonna do that.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-210lb-2...-Audi-Mazda-Dodge-GM-0280158829-/162727261913
4x 210lb 2200cc Fuel Injector For Bosch Honda Audi Mazda Dodge GM 0280158829
Link to the injectors @Sho and I are running. They fit fine in the JMF with some spacers for the mounting brackets. It's in my build thread.

https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.p...build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-11#post-70871
Pic 56ish

 

I remember you mentioned using an MS6 coldpipe, but who did the work on the rail and injector bungs?

 

Not trying to hijack the thread, but all done by Chris at Speed Solutions. Hit me up in PMs or in my build thread and you can see more info on that.

 

Anyone have instructions on setting up the SSC ?

 

Can you remove the in tank fpr and replace it with one attached to the pi rail installed in the engine bay to regulate pressure?