Idle issue/kr under 10+ psi boost

Dude do a compression test before anything. Might as well see how good it is before continuing and it's a good diagnostic step.

If they all seem off then do a leak down test. If they all test within spec at least you'll know.

 

Don't need all that to check the CPS; it's one bolt out, one specialty tool in, on a lift or jack stands and manual turning of the crank.

 

All U codes are communication error DTC's. Any throttle body code would be a P code for Powertrain unless the vehicle has a separate module that controls the throttle body. A U0101 is loss of communication with Transmission Control Module. U0100 is loss of communication with ECM

 

I’m aware of this. But from identifix an smart trac via Snap On scanner. They both for some reason recommend tb cleaning. Idk why or how. But it’s the one thing I haven’t done. I haven’t been able to run any cleaner through the engine or clean the tb. Which I know is a big thing for DI engines
The BCM seems to control the throttle as that’s where I found both U codes

 

The BCM doesn't control the throttle at all. The ECM does. A Throttle body cleaning isn't going to correct a U code. A U code could be set by low battery voltage. Unless the code is current and there is an issue such as a no start, gauges inoperable etc then it probably can be ignored.

 

The BCM seems to control the throttle as that’s where I found both U codes

its the only lead I have as no matter what I try you all tell me timing. Timing has been absolutely 100% been confirmed. It’s not timing. I’ll post what fixes it. Appreciate you all.

 

Do the plugs look clean?

 

White tip. Little rich. Light carbon dust on the base of the threads. Did a head gasket test when I check them.

Should I post a 1 2 3 4 5 WOT log

 

I never said anything about timing the last few responses I just clarified how the systems work. The BCM in no way controls the throttle body. The Engine Control Module does.

@Enki knows his stuff too. Your mechanical timing can be on point but the Crank sensor timing needs to be checked and verified. If you did that step already then good.

 

The E untuned an for better or worse has literally transformed the car. No stumble. No KR. ITS CRAZY I had no clue E was so crazy

def should’ve tuned my gto on E

 

Less of a benefit on NA cars.

 

Another 20 or so would’ve got me over 500 NA WOULDA BEEN WORTH !

 

These are the plugs. Doing comp/leak down test at the moment. Never done a leak down test
Cyl 1. 180 2. 180 3. 180 4. 180. Now for leak down.

 

Every cylinder was exactly 180 on the dot? Those are still good numbers.

 

On the dot.

 

Dam those are some Excellent compression numbers.

 

So I’m going to get a lot of flak for what I’m about to say. I triple checked timing again during compression with my master tech boss from ford. An I’m a tooth an a half off at the crank only. Cams are fine so I’m getting three new washers an redoing all that. I could probably do just one on the outside. But why play that game. Sorry to those I yelled at. I hate my life.

to clarify he used a different pin than I did maybe that did it. Still sucks.

 

How many degrees is that?

 

Idk. But now I have a huge issue. The hole that you would line up the balancer to timing cover don’t line up. As in my balancer would be on the 22nd tooth if I lined it up with the balancer hole. That hole an the hole on my balancer don’t line up with the 20th tooth. Why.

Please any help here is greatly appreciated !?

 

1 tooth is ~3 degrees according to JT so 1.5teeth=~ 4.5 degrees of timing

You know what @King Crow atleast you can admit what happened.

As for the balancer hole, that's beyond me I'm sure one of the others will chime in shortly.