LTFT Issues and Lugging

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Troubleshooting' started by xsixx23, Oct 8, 2018.

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  1. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    Hey all. I was experiencing some high (12+) positive LTFTs the other day, with a MAF code for IAT. I was also lugging pretty bad. Horrible low end until boost, but even so, slower acceleration. I ended up finding a leak at the bottom TIP clamp, of course. During inspecting the TIP I had the battery out of the way. Well, assembled everything and the car was back to normal. No weird LTFT, no lugging, until I did about 40 miles when the problems all came back. My LTFT is now sitting at positive 7.03 LTFT, blipping throttle shoves it to 9.38. STFT is showing as much as negative 25.00/positive 26.30. I have a P0453 code, (Evap Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input). I cant find the problem. Im still learning how to read my logs, and I cant seem to find any abnormalities. If anybody can read it, and let me know, that would be great. Thank you.
     

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  2. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    I had issues too. Bad maf, and a pile of boost leaks. Was leaking out of everything like a post Taco Bell visit.

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    Raider, via a mobile device, Oct 10, 2018
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  3. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    Log looks like fine albeit a near maxed out wastegate duty cycle.

    Mods list?

    Check your gas cap, clear your codes and see if it comes back.
     
  4. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    I ended up finding my air box is broken, not allowing it to shut properly. I tried to seal it up, until my CS SRI/TIP come in, and it seems a lot happier. Slight lug every now and then. However, my LTFT is at an 8 at cruise, 4/5 at idle, and will be anywhere around 7-9 while spooling, (which is okay? I read that spooling will cause a lean condition, right?) I reset my ECU and drove like a granny to let the car relearn the trims. It may be still allowing some excess air to come in, though. I have Autotech HPFP, Catless DP, straight pipe, JBR RMM, tuned by Stratified. I tightened my gas cap about 30 miles ago and the code is still there, so I'm hoping that solves that code whenever the ECU wants to. I found a clamp at the bottom of my TIP extremely loose, tightened and the IAT code dissppeared.[​IMG]

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    xsixx23, via a mobile device, Oct 11, 2018
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  5. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    Weird. You might just need a new purge solenoid. @Raider just replaced his too!
     
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  6. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    P2187. Got a Duralast never got the code again. Then just had to fix everything else. [​IMG]

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    Raider, via a mobile device, Oct 12, 2018
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  7. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    I will have to look into getting one. I did the intimate suck/blow test and had no air coming through at all.

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    xsixx23, via a mobile device, Oct 12, 2018
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  8. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Swap it out Only 55 bucks at auto zone
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Oct 13, 2018
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  9. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Ya fixed?

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    Raider, via a mobile device, Oct 18, 2018
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  10. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    My apologies for the very late reply. I ran my pu with my purge deleted to see if it would alleviate my symptoms. I followed a write up on another forum. I'm still experiencing a lug, especially when I shift into 2nd gear. It just feels like she hits a wall, and I can't find anything obviously wrong especially when analyzing my datalogs. I have no idea what to do. When I reflash to an OTS, the car runs like absolute dogshit, too. It really seems like a vacuum leak with symptoms, but i tightened up everything I could. Sprayed around with carb cleaner and the only idle kick/STFT change was at the airbox when it was broken open. Fuel pressure is optimal, with fuel pressure climbing when key is flicked. No other codes. I'm pretty frustrated with it at this point. I'm unsure of where to turn. Cycled multiple tanks of gas so not a gas issue.

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    xsixx23, via a mobile device, Oct 30, 2018
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  11. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    I will have to post a datalog later but I noticed I'm running insanely rich. AFR at 9.4-9.7 at like 3/4 throttle.. wondering why this could be.

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    --- Double Post Merged, Oct 31, 2018 ---
    I caught the car lugging in a small cruise datalog. Can anybody point me in the right direction? Its worth noting the car isnt always lugging that bad, but its down on power afaik
     

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    xsixx23, via a mobile device, Oct 30, 2018
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  12. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    Have you done a boost leak test and exhaust leak test?
     
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  13. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    I'm planning on making the boost leak tester this weekend. I don't have access to a compressor normally, unfortunately.

    Not sure what is considered healthy but my wastegate duty was at 100 on a 3/4 throttle acceleration earlier. Calculated load at 1.48. Again, not sure what's normal. Cruise LTFT sitting around 10-11.. STFT anywhere from -25/+25

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2018
    xsixx23, via a mobile device, Oct 31, 2018
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  14. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    It would seem like you have a leak then. ECU is doing all it can (+/- 25) to meet the learned fueling.
     
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  15. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    Boost leak test with @Mauro_Penguin had my car leaking boost all over.
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Nov 1, 2018
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  16. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Gold Member

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    Yes.

    Boost leak testing is such a MUST on turbo cars, but there are too many crappy testers. You can build a real decent one for less than $30, but you do need access to an air compressor.

    I still haven't tried out the smoke tester. It will have its maiden voyage this weekend. It's cheaper to make and might not require a compressor. I'll keep everyone posted.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 1, 2018
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  17. xsixx23

    xsixx23 Greenie Member

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    Right. I am building one tomorrow as I will be at a relatives house who owns a real good compressor, thankfully. I'm hoping I DO find a leak so I can get my pu running right again. Its been a headache. I will report with my results.

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    xsixx23, via a mobile device, Nov 1, 2018
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  18. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Gold Member

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    My biggest suggestion, use an air chuck and ball valve to feed and shut off the air.

    If you use a Schrader valve like most people use from an auto wheel, it wont fill fast enough to find big leaks.

    Use mild soapy water to spray your couplers and suspected leaks. Leaks are often silent, and listening for them is stupid.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 2, 2018
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  19. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    Ball valve is a must, imo, not only for on/off but to have better control the amount of pressure you pump through it without having to try and mess with the compressir's regulator...get it to a steady 20psi or so, and start looking for bubbles from the soapy water. I built my tester with parts from the hardware store for like $12.
     
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  20. Raider

    Raider Administraider Administrator Platinum Member

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    My Forge was proven to be rabid. As well as all fmic couplers.
    20180930_130911.jpg
     
    Raider, via a mobile device, Nov 3, 2018
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