[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

He put the PCV system back to stock and it had the same issue. Blowby is largely inert gas, and would take away from metered airflow going into the cylinder (thus not running lean). It's possible that hes got some kind of weird misfire going on that would allow unburned blowby but that still cancels out as it would be a fuel air mix.

I forget, was the secondary O2 ever unplugged to test?

 

Second o2 has not been unplugged yet, should this be my next step?
What would be the goal in doing this?

 

The secondary O2 is used explicitly to confirm and retrain the primary during cruise, as the primaries can and do drift. It's less of an issue now, but kinda mandatory for a production vehicle IIRC.

Edit: I have not had mine connected for years; including when I was still stock engine. Had issues with it.

 

So basically its the check to make sure the primary o2 is working properly?
Ill get that unplugged and see if it changes anything

 

If you want to know how they work, you should take the time to read up on wideband vs narrowband and how they are used in conjunction.

 

14v was with the motor running right? What was it with the engine off

 

just checked now after about a 15km drive with koeo it’s 12.4

 

I doubt that's the issue then

 

If one or more cylinders aren't igniting the mixture, this would cause the o2 to think im running lean right?
Since I changed the plugs last weekend this weekend Ill take them back out, ill be able to tell if im running rich or lean from that.
If the plugs look like ive been running rich, could this all be cause by bad coils? I don't think they've ever been changed.
@Enki

 

So I can only judge from my current setup, but my car literally doesn't get more than 50ml per oil change and I am running 2618 pistons lol Seems pretty excessive to me but that is very cold!

 

If the cylinders weren't igniting anything you'd know it. If even one cylinder were down (not firing or not firing properly) it would run terrible all the time. If two or more were down you'd have a hard time getting the car to move at all. It's entirely possible that your primary o2 sensor is kaput. If it's not an OEM one it might have shit the bed pretty quick.

 

I was reading that adding load would cause the voltage demand to the coils to raise which might explain only during higher load it misses.
As for the o2 from what i know it seems oem so 142k km on that.
I think the garage that works on speeds might have some time on Saturday to check my car out and they'll be able to swap stuff out with other speeds for sure. If not they'll tell me my engines toast and ill just get a new oem spec rebuild as built block is out of the budget.

 

I guess a built engine can get very costly but if it did come to that I suggest the 700 extra and buy manley h-beam rods and some forged pistons. You can run literally everything else stock and it makes sure your engine is safer in higher power. Just my suggestion if you ever would go for more than stock fueling. If not then nvm lol

 

I don’t think I’ll ever be going for more then 350whp in the next like 5 years, depending how things work out if I still have the car by then and want more power I’ll take the engine out and rebuild it with my uncle. Also built rods and pistons here in canada are closer to 2200$ with tax. @StreetSpeed6

Also I used my cheap Amazon scanner and I was able to see my o2 reading I took a video of the reading while holding at 2500rpm abs then a couple revs

@Enki

 

Dang man! Crazy $$$$ for stuff up in Canadia Land lol

 

Just exchange rate 1300 USD = 1900 CAD + 13% tax = 2150 CAD (rough math) it hurts that's for sure

Cost based on graveyards stage 1 grave digger kit:
Mahle PowerPak 88mm Pistons .020" Over Bore 9.6:1 CR 22.5mm Wrist Pin
Manley H Beam Connecting Rods
King Connecting Rod Bearings STD

 

Don't buy graveyard shit if you can help it.

 

Agreed, poor lazy search on my part

 

15% tax where im at, plus if I order from the states there's a ridiculous tax for buying foreign goods, Damonds 250$ occ became 400$ cad real quick

 

That's rough. Why not just order the pistons, rods, and bearings yourself for that cost? It would be a lot cheaper to assemble a block on your own than to buy a built one already.

My 1.6 engine I didn't even measure clearances. Just threw some Eagle rods and standard size Kings bearings in. It ran for over a year or two until I blew the head gasket on the track.