[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

In other words JUST SEND IT hahaha

 

2200$ is how much it would cost just to get rods and pistons, installation would make it way more

 

Have you priced out OEM rods, pistons and bearings? (Serious question as I don't even know their cost)

 

Pistons Mahle 197786145 1 partsengine.ca $ 825.57
Connecting rods Manley 14032-4 1 amazon.ca $ 774.18
Right now!!!

 

Just had a look, added piston rings, main bearings and thrust washer came up with $1,658.87 USD (2183 CAD) atleast on edge auto, so really no point in going OEM rods and Pistons IMO

 

Installing the same pistons and rods and expecting a different result...definition of insanity.

 

I understand where you're coming from. If you could find another engine instead it would probably save you money but if you have to rebuild anyway then it won't save you much to not go built. I respect any decision people make though and understand when $20 is even a big deal let alone several hundred dollars in difference.

 

I have researched a built rebuild with the basics using mostly what people here have suggested...Im at $5700cdn with estimated machine work. This would be a pretty basic 500hp capable unit.
I think a JDM pulled engine complete is about $3500cdn

 

Stock block is 500 whp capable if you keep the torque down.

 

This is true and proven.

 

It was basically a stock rebuild with Mahle pistons and Manley rods, cometic gaskets, BSD. Thats it.
However with me assembling it, that has a $5700 estimate.
For the OP, if he needs assembly, a JDM block is prolly his best bet.

 

The engine rebuild shop near me that only rebuilds MZR DISI is 4500 to rebuild my engine to oem spec and install, 5500$ for a basic built motor with install. All CAD
Im still not 100% convinced I even need a new one at this point, but if I do I'd talk to them more and see what exactly goes into it and what the turnaround time would be.

 

It only blew the head gasket cause I saw coolant temps of around 240 on the track. I had no ducting, a sub par aluminum radiator, and crappy fans. I have since installed a triple pass radiator, spal fans, ducting etc.

I purposely took it to the track that way the first time just to see how well it would hold up. I also melted the exhaust gasket during that event.

Before the track day I had been doing a few AutoX's and daily driving it without issues. The bottom end is still fine but I went 1.8 anyways since the torque is better.

 

So 240 is enough to blow head gaskets!? I haven't had my speed to that but I have probably seen 225-230 from ripping it back to back in 100 degree weather so that's not far from that just not keeping it at that temp or anything either. Just ripping it on the streets

 

It's enough when you're WOT basically for 20 minutes straight with a sub par cooling system. That was just the temp I saw when I looked at my display. Never looked at the logs for the actual highest temp it got to.

Let's keep the thread on topic though. @chris' speed 3 let us know what you find.

 

hello everyone, i found some time today to do some more diagnosing. I focused on the crankcase pressure today, I made the VC breather dump VTA without going back into the intake and blocked off the intake port. Theres smoke coming out of the valve cover at all times.
I tried to take off the Oil cap and it splashed oil EVERYWHERE and there was smoke coming out from there as well.
So I don't know how this would cause my problem but I don't think this is normal
There is also some weird looking oil on top of the oil cap after it sat for a day or two without starting

 

Oil will 100% splash out of the oil cap on this engine without it on this isn't an engine to try run it off. The oil on the bottom of your oil cap is normal when you have condensation in it, it's caused by running your engine for to short and not getting hot enough long enough to "burn" off the condensation in the oil. That smoke coming out if the VC is probably partially the condensation coming out of the oil as it warms

 

By dumping the valve cover port VTA you're creating a vacuum leak and a lean condition. There is partial vacuum in the turbo inlet pipe since the compressor is always sucking in air.

You didn't need to plug it off. Just see how much oil was passing through it. Ideally clean the turbo inlet real good, reinstall it then drive it X amount of miles and recheck. If it's coated in a ton of oil then you have a bad blow by issue. A little bit is fine but a lot indicates a problem.

At the same time if your catch can is filling at a ridiculous rate that's also an area of concern.

Just do a cylinder leak down test for every cylinder. That's going to tell you how well it's sealing and where the leak is going if you're having a mechanical issue.

 

Looks like blowby.

 

I have a check valve on the VC dump but ill reconnect it, My intakes been dry ever since I installed the catch can and its not filling up crazy fast. Im going to a garage this week hopefully to have a leak down test done.