What turbo are you running?

SAME. Haha why does stuff cost money??

I am SERIOUSLY thinking about switching to BW SXE when I go balls to the wall. It's just hard to compare through just lbs/min and specs. I did see the new gen2 gtx's, but PTE is also coming out with gen3 turbos now, interesting to see if anything not pro-mod gets upgraded.

 

EFR/FR kits are $$$ because they are superior tech/performance on so many levels. The fact alone they're used on F1 cars proves this to me, not to mention the tons of vids and anecdotal evidence of their performance.

 

I agree completely. But, I believe we have two different goals. I'm going to stupid nuts power for the strip and roll racing. The EFR line, while admittedly ridiculous, doesn't really shine above the 7163 for top end power. I've seen many dyno graphs where just the next up at 8172 tapers hard when being pushed up top. The new SXE line does use the inconel blades, I believe the S300 versions use the 9180 or 9172 blades trimmed to different sizes. Either way, BW has their stuff on point.

 

You really need to get good at interpretation of the flow maps I feel in order to know how they really compare. My favorite part of the new GTX3582R is that it uses the same hotside as my GT3582R. I'll save a little money and also it'll basically be a 100% plug and play swap other than getting a retune which is no problem. I'm hoping that also means same hotside + lighter turbine wheel = faster spool and MUCH meatier top end.

@Redline - To comment on the EFR, while the turbo itself seems expensive, you also aren't buying a wastegate or BOV so it really isn't any more expensive than a normal EWG turbo setup (assuming you're already redoing your IC piping, downpipe, etc. when building your motor).

 

Indeed. And the integrated BPV vents directly into the compressor housing itself, keeping it spooled and improving it's already ridiculous transient response speed even more. It almost like FFS, but without the clutch abuse. Additionally, it has the top-end of a ~GTX3076r (60 lbs/min), yet spools faster than a K04 o.0

Big turbo flow; small turbo boost threshold, spool, and transient response. Have your cake and eat it too.

 

Let's say mid-sized turbo flow

 

It's subjective, I suppose. For me 60lbs/min is definitely BT, especially when a stock K04 is only ~half (35). And 500whp is nothing to sneeze at.

Personally, I wouldn't want a 70lbs/min+ turbo on a Speed 3. Those things are so large they make Speeds feel like those EVOs running such large turbos that have off/on power delivery delivery where at 5,000-6,000 rpms (on an EVO anyways) power finally hits, and it hits hard. No thanks. If I wanted that kind of powerband, I'd get a sport bike. And we have no AWD to put a powerband like that down to the tarmac.

Nah, 7163 is perfect for me, tons of power everywhere in the powerband, and pretty much matchless power under-the-curve. But to each their own...

 

FWD problems don't exist on my MS6 BUT transfer case problems do.. found that out the hard way.

 

True, but you still have to deal with boost threshold and spool...

 

That's true, but as long as I have ~2500rpm of usable power, that's all I'll need for drag racing. Different strokes for different folks! I like that we have a bunch of different inputs for different scenarios though.

 

Even with my GT35R82 I still have ~5000RPM span where I am making >350whp, climbing up to nearly 600 at redline. I'd say that's pretty usable power especially considering this turbo we're talking about has none of this trick new turbine designs and billet wheels that have been coming out lately. I expect much faster spool and much better top end once I upgrade to a more modern turbo.

If done right, a 6-700whp setup is VERY usable, especially for someone with AWD who doesn't need an R-compound tire to hook.

 

Slightly off topic, but I'd love to be that crazy f*cker who spins all 4 off a launch (insert differential grenading here).

Most dyno plots for the 6466/6266 show spool completion around 4k to 4500, which leaves half the power band at somewhere north of 40psi. Practical for nearly anything besides straight line racing? No. Crazy as hell in that straight line? Me thinks so! But there is definitely better suited turbos for different scenarios if you have a specific number/goal in mind.

 

Sounds like you need to talk to Will Dawson aka @Captain KR as his Speed6 is 6466 running >40psi. You're looking at a very very large sum of money between today and 40psi on a PTE6XXX though lol

 

Oh, I know haha. I've looked into Will's car and seen some of what he's gone through with it. I'm actually about to get a PD tune when my 5858 goes on. A guys gotta blow obscene amounts of money on something though, right? ....right?

 

I definitely recommend Purple Drank 100%. And yes lol that was this year for me I ZZBd in May and made 563whp in October. Just being held back now from making more power by my turbo but I'm going to chill at this power level until I get in some seat time on the 1/4.

 

We only have 1000ft tracks here in Arkansas I'm excited to see where the car takes me though. Just need to graduate college and make big boy money first haha.

 

Ran a vband pte 5858 journal bearing from 124k to 162k on my stock block. Then another 8k miles on my built motor at this power level.

22psi up top, 12.5* at 7k



Then added meth and switched to a 5862 journal bearing that I got for $600 with 7k miles on it and have run it for another 45k miles since

35psi up top, 18* at 7500rpm


I'll be going with another 5862 most likely as mine is getting tired and starting to let some oil by the seals

 

Nice! The new 5862 is really interesting to me, being rated for I think 750 (?). Those are some solid numbers.

 

You're thinking of the 6062 which is rated to 750. The 5862 is rated to 640

 

Well, we were both kind of right. Gen2 just got announced, that was what I was thinking. Forgive me because I suck at images when using my phone, but here's the link for their announcement. 700hp rating on the Gen2 5862.


All I know is 80+ hp and probably about $800+ for the ball bearing only.