How To: Mazdaspeed 3/Mazdaspeed 6/CX-7 VVT The Roku Way

TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE ENTIRE THREAD!!!!


Do it the right way and do it once, read over this a few times and make sure you know exactly what needs to happen in the order it needs to happen. Be sure to have this and the FSM handy for quick reference on torque specs (though I have listed a few, you still need to know some others as well as the order in which things should be tightened) and anything else I may or may not have inputed into this How-To.

Torque Specs:


VVT Actuator and Exhaust Sprocket bolts: 51-55ft-lbf

Timing Cover: Bolts 1-18: 71-101in-lbf
Bolts 19-22: 30-40ft-lbf



Crankshaft: 1st step: 70.9-76.7ft-lbf
2nd step: 87-93 degrees

Lower Blind Plug: 14-16ft-lbf

Water Pump Pulley Bolts: 13-16ft-lbf

Idler Pulley Bolt: 15-22ft-lbf

Passenger Side Motor Mount: 55-77.3ft-lbf



Fuel Pump Housing Bolts: 13-16ft-lbf

Valve Cover: 71-92in-lbf



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Color Index:

White: general

Red: Warnings and Notes that should be taken into consideration

Yellow: My personal notes and thoughts that you should know

Orange: Start of a new section, or moving around the car

Green: Disclosure; WHEN YOU SEE THIS "DISCLOSURE" KEEP THE FOLLOWING NOTE IN MIND: I am personally not responsible for any damage or injuries to anyone or anything, I am only an enthusiast who is sharing the knowledge I have gained and acquired from those smarter than I when I started working on my car. NATOR RULES ALL!!!

NOTE: THIS BOLT DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED, IF IT IS AND IS NOT TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY BACK DOWN THE CAR WILL NOT START!!!

I only removed for reference and state I cannot stress this enough!!! The slightest play in the bolt will allow the car to have problems as this is your primary coil pack ground.





KEEP IN MIND: SOME OF THESE PICTURES WHERE TAKEN LATE OR EARLY SO IF SOMETHING DOESNT MATCH WHAT YOU HAVE IN THE PHOTOS DONT SWEAT IT!

REQUIRED TOOLS:

-Top Dead Center Pin SST (TDCP)
-Camshaft Alignment Plate SST (CAP)

These can be purchased here:
Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co.


NOTE: DO NOT TORQUE ANYTHING WITH THE CAP (CAM ALIGNMENT PLATE) OR TDCP (TOP DEAD CENTER PIN) IN PLACE YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM!!!

-Crank Pulley SST (M6x1) used to hold holds crank pulley in place while breaking crank bolt and torque.
-Sockets: deep well and normal: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm, 24mm, Torx T8 inverted
-Ratchets: 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives
-Box wrenches: same sizes as above
-Flat Head screw driver 1/4" wide
-Breaker bars, both 3/8" and 1/2"
-Inch-lbs and ft-lbs torque wrenches (ranges from 8" lbs and over 100'lb)
-Pry bars of various sizes
-Needle nose pliers
-FSM Access
-2 Jack stands
-A Jack
-Block of wood to place on Jack to prevent damage to oil pan
-Black Permanent Marker
-Plastic Scrapers for removal of old sealant
-2-3 cans of brake cleaner (MUST HAVE FOR ANY JOB YOU DO)
-ZIP TIES YAAAYYY!!!
-RAGS... LOTS OF THEM!!!
-Last but not least, a second or third set of hands is always nice... but who works on their cars by themselves???


REQUIRED PARTS:

• P/N REQUIRED/OPTIONAL (OEM Description) Extra quantity $ Total cost [Better description/notes]

• L3K9-12-4X0C REQ (ACTR, VARIABLE V. TIM) 105.10 [Updated OEM VVT actuator; does NOT include a new bolt]
• L568-12-428 OPT (BOLT, LOCK) 4.30 [Prob not a TTY bolt but I'm taking no chances. Flange-head intake cam/VVT bolt; this is an updated P/N from the old one L321-12-428 which was a bolt w/ washer]
• L3K9-12-429 REQ (WASHER) 7.70 x2 = 15.40 [Friction washers for cam gears; x1 for intake cam plus an extra in case I loosen the exhaust cam bolt]
• L3K9-12-201A REQ (Timing Chain Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L) 34.19
• L3K9-10-230 OPT (Valve Cover Gasket Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L) 13.14 [Replace this if you never have before]
• LF01-11-406 REQ (BOLT, LOCK-C.SHAFT PU) 10.41 [TTY crankshaft pulley bolt]
• L3H5-11-407 REQ (WASHER, LOCK) 12.81 x3 = 25.62 [Crankshaft friction washers; replace ALL 3]
• L3K9-12-500A REQ (Tensioner MazdaSpeed3 2.3L) 57.94 [Chain tensioner housing w/ spring-loaded plunger; this goes bad too!]
• L3K9-12-671 OPT (Tensioner guide MazdaSpeed3 2.3L) 29.85 [Left chain guide that the chain tensioner plunger pushes on]
• L3K9-12-614 OPT (Chain guide MazdaSpeed3 2.3L) 32.99 [Right chain guide that is stationary]
• L3G6-10-602 OPT (Front cover seal MazdaSpeed3 2.3L) 8.06 [Timing/front cover oil seal, looks like a giant square cross-section O-ring; replacing because never have before]
• L3K9-10-193 OPT (GASKET, RR. HOUSING) 4.00 [Fuel pump housing gasket; if the FP leaks after reinstall this is cheap and could save the day]

• LFBL-10-237 OPT (WASHER, SEALING HEAD) 7.91 x14 = 110.74 [Actually sealing flange-head BOLTS for the VC]
• 9XG0-36-430L OPT (BOLT) 0.59 x2 = 1.18 [Chain guide bolts]
• LF17-12-717A OPT (Engine parts Tensioner Bolt) 0.90 x2 = 1.80 [Chain tensioner bolts]
• L3K9-13-366B OPT (BOLT) 1.79 x3 = 5.37 [E8 Inv torx bolts holding fuel pump to FP housing]
• L3K9-13-ZE5 OPT (RING, O) 9.79 [Fuel pump O-Ring]
• 9XG0-99-667L OPT (PLUG, BLIND) 2.36 [Blind plug bolt, in case you accidentally remove one then break it]

BE SURE TO STUDY THE FSM MECHANICAL SECTION PRIOR TO DOING THIS!

Before we get started I want to suggest taking off the hood. I never used to remove it before with small stuff. But something this in depth, I HIGHLY recommend removing the hood for ease of work about to be done.

DISCLOSURE

So let’s get started!

Jack up the car, support on jack stands.

DRAIN OIL!!!!

Then:

Remove all the following:
Passenger wheel and any fender liners that are blocking the Crank pulley.
Skid Plate (but who has one of those?)
TMIC or FMIC Piping covering the VC
Coil packs and spark Plugs (removing plugs will make the next step easier, as there will not be any pressure building up in the cylinders when you spin the crank)

From there, I have always broken the crank bolt free as the motor is probably still warm. (Go ahead and remove your serpentine belt since you’re in the area).

Locate your tensioner pulley (14mm wrench)then pull clock wise to break tension, The pulley located is the lower left pulley in photo,(also save this picture for belt routing when reinstalling later)



Remove stock TDC bolt (10mm) from block and replace with TDCP found here:



Next, grab a 1/2" Ratchet with a 21mm Socket and slowly spin the crank till the crank stops on the TDCP. Your Crank Pulley Will line up with a threaded hole on the Timing Cover (this is where you will place the M6x1 bolt (10mm)) Notice bolt on pulley in picture below:



Now grab your marker. On the Crank Pulley there is a spot that should now be at the top where there is a tooth missing. You should be able to count 20 teeth towards the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS) or counter clockwise. (I believe its 20 teeth someone correct me if I’m wrong) make sure that 20th tooth is lined up with the center mark on your CKPS. Then use your handy dandy marker, and mark that tooth on the face of the crank pulley (this will help with aligning everything up later when re-timing the motor)



To remove the Crank Bolt, do this by using a 500+ft lb capable impact gun with 21mm socket or use the Crank Pulley Bolt (M6x1) or have someone sit in the car hold the brake and put the car in 6th gear (this will be needed in some cases later on so remember that. Once the bolt is broken free, remove crank bolt, pull the crank pulley off, then lightly hand thread the crank bolt back on till it stops (DO NOT TIGHTEN!you should be able to spin it back off by hand, this is so you can turn the crank back to TDC if it somehow spins out, Just a precaution I tend to take). Go ahead and grab your marker again and draw circles around the bolts holding the CKPS in place, then remove your CKPS (2 8mm bolts) and set that aside!

MOVING ON!


Now off to the driver side of the car:
DISCLOSURE

Remove:
Battery/box and full intake (should only need 10mm)
Disconnect the connectors on top of the Fuel Pump housing that are attached to the Brass bracket. There are two bolts (8mm), one on top closest to the battery, and one on the side itself. This is where I tell you, DO NOT REMOVE THAT GROUND BOLT IT IS NOT REQUIRED!

The top bolt is the one I am not pointing at lol (didn’t take a picture of the one needed to remove) it’s the one next to it:



This is the bolt on the side:



Once that is removed, then remove that wire harness and set aside, there should be two large connectors on the bracket one gray and one black, and the connector for the fuel pump, a connector for the Camshaft Position Sensor, then two more connectors at the other end, one to the power steering pump (one individual wire) and then a large Gray connector that clips onto the Intake Manifold, along with the 4 connectors for the Coil packs and the one for the boost reservoir on top of the manifold. Then she will come right out.

NOW TO THE FUEL PUMP AND FUEL PUMP HOUSING:
DISCLOSURE



UPDATED NOTE:


The pump does not need to be removed from the housing it is more optional if anything:

Removing the fuel pump. You will need the T8 Inverted Torx, and a 17mm open ended wrench. There are three (3) bolts on the fuel pump. then the main fuel feed to the fuel rail is on the bottom of the pump (17mm), then the two on top, one with a yellow clip (to the fuel rail) and one with a blue clip (primary feed from gas tank) those can be removed with a flat head. The wiring harness you removed off the VC and Manifold earlier... guess what... got to take the other end of that off the CDFP area now.
There is the two that came off the other harness, then one connector for the VTCS. Then you have two more, one for the EGR and one for the Stock Boost controller. Push it to the fire wall and tuck it under something.

Now that the Harness is out of the way, tuck some rags up under the fuel pump so the fuel doesn’t get all over the place (plus you can huff the rag later we all love the smell of fuel in the morning). Also, remove the silver bracket (two, 2, 10mm bolts) and place that out of the way.

Take your flathead screw driver and place it in between the yellow clip on the forward fuel line, then lightly pry it open. Then pull line up and push/tuck aside out of the way:





Now for the other line (with the blue clip on it) its literally find the tab and twist it counter clock wise till it locks open, and pull line up.

Now grab one of your zip ties and wrap it around the main fuel feed to the fuel rail like this:



Grab your 17mm open ended wrench and break the nut free and un-thread it all the way down. Don’t worry about it falling, that’s what your zip tie was for:



^^^-- that’s winning right there

Now grab your 1/4" ratchet and T8 Torx and let’s take that fuel pump off. Make sure to remove all three bolts equally while wiggling the pump out of the housing. Remove the cam follower and DO NOT TOUCH THE TOP OF IT THAT FOLLOWS THE CAM! Place it in a clean area that will not be messed with, preferably located with the fuel pump.

Lets removed the Fuel Pump Housing now, there are four (4) 10mm bolts holding it in place. Be sure to place some rags under the housing as there is oil in it:

This one:



These two:



And one more located on the back side of the three I have indicated (don’t know where the picture went )

Go ahead and grab an 8mm socket and pull your VC off and set aside for a cleaning later.

Grab your CAP and that 21mm wrench, place the wrench on the "NUT" looking part of the intake cam. Place the CAP into the grooves of the cams on the driver side of the car, if the CAP doesn’t slide in right away, the push or pull the cam in whatever direction needed to get the CAP in place.




BACK TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR!
DISCLOSURE


Grab your jack and block of wood, wrap the wood in a few rags and place the jack directly under the oil pan where the big hole is. And Jack up till it starts to hold the wood in place like this:



Grab a 10mm socket and a flat head and remove the power steering and coolant reservoirs. Push the coolant tank towards the emblem on the bumper, it should sit in there just nice, then pull the power steering tank in the same direction and zip tie it down.

Now, grab your 1/2" breaker bar with an extension and a 17mm socket. Break the two lower bolts of the passenger side motor mount. Then grab a 10mm and remove the grounding strap (the side bolted to the chassis not the PMM). Jack the motor up just enough to take the weight of the motor off the chassis. Loosen up the lower bolts some more till the bottom of the bolt head is not touching the PMM. Jack up the motor some more till the PMM is completely off the chassis. Removed lower bolts, then removed top two bolts. Pull out PMM and set aside with hardware.

Grab a 12mm socket, and remove the Power steering pump (leaving the lines hooked up) there are two (2) 12mm bolts on top and one on the bottom. Push it up towards the top of the strut tower and find a way to zip tie in place.

Now you’re going to need to remove your Water Pump Pulley (three 10mm bolts) Located directly below the power steering pump. So grab two (2) 10mm wrenches, place them on two bolts that are close together, and pull them together, one of them will break free. Then move around to the next bolt and do the same thing, do this till all of them are off.

Then Remove your Idler Pulley, located just below and to the right of the Alternator (located on the far top left) use a 10mm socket. Remove and set aside.

You should have enough room to work with now (yes that rag on top of the cam is hiding something):



Now, look at your Lobes... these things here on your cams:



(the egg shaped parts that press onto the tappets/buckets/spring caps) on the cam directly above cylinder 1 (cylinder on the passenger side) do they look like they are facing each other at a 45* angle, while the sides facing each other are parallel to one another as well as perpendicular to the head like this:



Oh that rag... I wouldn’t worry about that rag....

Moving on now.

From here we are going to remove the Timing Cover (TC).

There are three Primary bolts on the TC that are a 13mm they are all located on the bulk near the PMM mounting point, these will be the last to be removed and the first to go on during reinstallation. (Keep this is mind)

These Two that I am pointing at DO NOT need to be removed:



There are twenty four (24) bolts total that hold the timing cover on, this includes 3 13mm (located at the PMM mounting point) and the 10mm bolt for the idler pulley. there is also one (1) (located on the far bottom right of the picture directly above) that is a 13mm I believe (don’t let the ripple in the TC fool you, there is no pulley that goes there!) and the other 19 bolts are all 8mm, some are longer than others so keep them in order of where they came from.

Once all the 21 bolts are removed you may then remove the 3 13mm bolts from the PMM area. Go ahead and remove your crank bolt (that is finger threaded on remember)

Now grab your flat head screw driver and place it in between the TC and the intake cam bolt and pry while holding the top of the TC and pull it up from the top (You probably could go through the bottom but it’s just easier to go through the top)







MOVING ON TO CHAIN, TENSIONER, ARMS AND VVT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Now we have the TC Removed it’s time to move on to the more… “INDEPTH” part of this. (It really isn’t that hard though) We are going to remove the chain tentioner located here with two (2) 10mm bolts:



This can be done with ease. First loosen both 10mm bolts on the tensioner. Once this is done, and then completely remove the bottom bolt slowly, allowing the tensioner to spin clockwise on the top bolt. Do this slowly as this is spring loaded. Once the tension is completely removed then remove the top bolt and pull the tensioner out. You can place a small tack/paperclip or nail in the locking hole to keep the plunger in place like this (this can also be done while the tensioner is in the car to make for easier removal)



Now you are going to remove the chain tension arm. It has one mounting point on the head and is free to move forward and back, it will simply slide off (be sure to pull the chain towards the front of the car to prevent it from getting in the way of removal of the chain tension arm and the guide arm) So remove and inspect the arm:



Both my arms are brand new so there is minimal to no wear on them. If they are chunked I would replace them, but if they have small grooves in them that don’t look deep they should be fine to keep in place. If replacement is needed replace the right one now two (2)8mm bolts hold off on the tension arm. That will come later.



On the crank you have the two friction washers and the timing chain gear (keep in mind this order in which they are removed washer/gear/washer)



NOTE: when installing the new washers. DO NOT TOUCH THE FACE OF THEM!!! Hold them like this while handling them.

Go ahead and replace the one closest to the block now, and set the gear aside for the moment.



Grab your marker, and mark on the VVT and Cam cap where the VVT sits in relation to the cam like this:





This will allow you to place the new VVT in the proper position for ease of install. Be sure to transfer the markings on the old VVT onto the new VVT. DO THIS NOW!
DISCLOSURE
Now we can remove the chain and grab a ratchet with a 14mm socket and a 24mm wrench to hold the cam in place: This picture is only for reference of where the wrench should go on the cam as I did not take pictures of the removal and installation of the actually VVT itself:




DISCLOSURE
NOTE: BE SURE TO REMOVE THE CAM ALIGNMENT TOOL WHEN BREAKING AND TORQUEING THE BOLT!!!!
If you do not, you will damage the timing tool and we don’t want that now do we… Moving on:
Now again, I do not have pictures of the actual removal and installation of the VVT actuator. You will place the 24mm wrench on the cam to hold in place (after removing the alignment tool of course! Be sure to keep the cam in the position it is in otherwise you may nick a valve.) Then grab the ratchet and break the VVT bolt free. Remove and replace with new. Align up your markings and Torque to50.9-55.3 ft-lb. Reinstall your Cam alignment tool now.
Grab your crank Gear for the chain and set into the bottom of the chain like this and slide the gear onto the crank (keeping it taught so the chain doesn’t separate from the gear) like this:





With tension on the bottom crank gear, put the chain onto the VVT first, then onto the exhaust gear leaving some slack in the middle of the two gears. While using your 24mm wrench you will push the intake cam towards the exhaust cam just enough to pull the chain over the exhaust cam a tooth or two (pending on how loose you left the chain)like this:
First picture is of the loose chain, second and third is tight chain






Now we can reinstall your chain tension arm (the one on the exhaust side as the other should still be in place)



For the installation of the new tensioner, it will be the opposite of removal. (Keep in mind, the new tensioner has a locking pin in place to keep the plunger compressed, DO NOT REMOVE THIS YET) So install the top bolt first:



Spin the tensioner in place and align up your bottom bolt hole and tighten both. Then press the tension arm into the tensioner and slowly release the locking pin to free the plunger and lever.



PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER
DISCLOSURE

From here it’s all backwards for re- installation. First be sure to apply plenty of sealant to your TC along these areas anywhere else is unnecessary:



Install and align up your VC and install these three bolts first, make them snug but be sure the TC can still move slightly:



Install the rest of the bolts and tighten all in accordance with the FSM.

NOTE: BE SURE THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE VC IS LEVEL WITH THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE HEAD; IF THIS IS NOT LEVEL/FLUSH WITH ONE ANOTHER YOU WILL HAVE A LEAKY VALVE COVER!

TIMING THE MOTOR
DISCLOSURE

Once you get the VC in and on and tightened up, slide on your second friction washer onto the crank. Now oil up the inside of the crank pulley for ease of installation, slide the pulley onto the crank and install your M6x1.0 bolt into the hole on the pulley. Once this is done install the crank bolt until snug, have someone get in the car, press the brake all the way to the floor and hold, then place the car in 6th gear to prevent the crank from spinning. You will then torque the crank bolt in two steps
First torque to 70.9-76.7 ft-lbthen let the bolt sit and cool for a few moments
Second is the 90* turn so.
Now you will grab your marker and draw a line on the bolt and the pulley to show where you’re starting point is (this is probably the hardest part of this entire install)



Now whilst holding the brake and the car in 6th gearyou will spin the bolt with a breaker bar as far as you can before it feels like it’s going to stop. Then let it sit and cool down for a moment the bolt should be around 45* from the marking on the pulley. After it has been a few moments repeat again until you have the bolt turned a full 90* from the original mark you made.



From here, you just go backwards. Re-install your crank sensor, remove your pulley bolt, remove TDCP, remove Cam alignment tool. The hard part is now over so put the car back together.
NOTE: be sure to add oil over the top of the chain and cams before putting the VC back on. Be sure to prime your fuel pump, and DO NOT FORGET THIS:



Take your time do your research and be sure you have EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!!
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE, ASK AWAY!!!

If you have noticed anything missing or something that should be edited please post away.
Roku

 

ROKUSEK HERE ARE YOUR PICS in an imgur album that I pilfered from... another place. They might not be in order but feel free to link to them directly if you don't want to rehost them elsewhere. For the sake of this was a ton of work I figured I'd keep this from dying.

Here's my compilation of notes from my DIY VVT/timing chain/etc replacement. Rokusek might have incorporated some of this info into his post here, but it was a lot to cross-compare so I've left my notes as is since they reference his notes and attempt to add helpful info.

I used a variety of sources for finding knowledge on parts, tools & procedures (including this thread & the FSM) but I will try to summarize the useful things I found elsewhere or discovered myself instead of linking to other sites/threads. I will also try to avoid redundancies with Rokusek's original post.

If you want a "big-picture" view of what this whole process looks like, check out the timelapses I created.

Pics hosted on Flickr, but there are changes happening over there too, might switch to imgur if the links die.

Parts/Replace Items:

The following lists includes most of the main part numbers and what I paid for each item for the sake of transparency. I found most of the parts online at ParkMazdaOEMParts.com but actually purchased some of them at a local stealership after asking them to price match (and they did for most of them). ALWAYS ASK FOR PRICE MATCHING when buying local, most dealerships are willing and it can save you 25% or more on parts costs. I bought the stuff I knew I would need online and stuff I might return locally. Prices below are before tax/shipping if applicable.

Parts I replaced:

• VVT actuator: L3K9-12-4X0C (ACTR, VARIABLE V. TIM): 105.10 (same P/N, which worried me, but had an added heat-treated spot)
• Cam sprocket bolts: L568-12-428 (BOLT, LOCK): 4.34 x2 = 8.68 (updated P/N is a flange bolt w/ a smaller head; replaces bolt/washer combo)
• Cam friction washers: L3K9-12-429 (WASHER): 7.70 x2 = 15.40 (x2; both exhaust & intake)
• Timing chain: L3K9-12-201A (Timing Chain Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L): 34.19 (my old chain didn't appear stretched when held up next to the new one)
• Timing chain tensioner: L3K9-12-500A (Tensioner MazdaSpeed3 2.3L): 57.94 (my old tensioner was out to the 8th click; new one was out to the 4th notch when everything was tightened down)
• Timing chain tensioner bolts: Hardware store (x2; only because I broke one, otherwise unnecessary)
• Crankshaft bolt: LF01-11-406 (BOLT, LOCK-C.SHAFT PU): 10.41 (TTY)
• Crankshaft friction washers: L3H5-11-407 (WASHER, LOCK): 12.81 x3 = 38.43 (x2/3; I couldn't get oil pump sprocket off to replace the 3rd)
• Crankshaft/timing cover oil seal: L3G6-10-602 (Front cover seal MazdaSpeed3 2.3L): 8.06 (was difficult to remove using screwdriver to leverage it out; I gouged the seal surface on the timing cover slightly; used a 32mm socket & mallet to lightly tap new one in)
• Fuel pump housing gasket: L3K9-10-193 (GASKET, RR. HOUSING): 4.00 (metal crush gasket, NOT the O-ring)
• Valve cover gaskets: L3K9-10-230 (Valve Cover Gasket Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L): 13.14 (big outer & small inner)
• Silicone RTV sealant: 0000-77-1217-ES (RTV SILICONE SEALANT): 7.80 x2 = 15.60 (timing cover & a few places on valve cover)
• Idler pulley bolt: Hardware store (the stock bolt head was too tall to get a socket on and so narrow that I almost completely rounded it off with a 12-pt wrench; I had to remove the PMM and jack up the engine to get a socket on the stock bolt from an angle; I replaced it with a hex head all-thread bolt from a hardware store)

Parts I did NOT replace:

• Chain guides: L3K912671 (Tensioner guide MazdaSpeed3 2.3L): 29.85 & L3K9-12-614 (Chain guide MazdaSpeed3 2.3L): 32.99 (both left & right; mine looked new @58k miles and I wanted to return them and save another $60)
• HPFP O-ring: L3K9-13-ZE5 (RING, O): 9.79 (between HPFP & housing; I removed the whole fuel pump assembly as one piece so I never exposed this O-ring)
• Valve cover bolts (x14 sleeved/collared; very expensive and they're just fancy bolts)

Parts to check for wear/replace if necessary (since you're already in there):

• Oil control valve (OCV) (I measured resistance & applied battery voltage per the FSM to check for functionality; mine worked perfectly)
• Spark plugs (I replaced mine)
• Serpentine belt (I tried to replace mine but the new one was super tight and was impossible to get on)
• Boost control solenoid (mine had a broken exhaust nipple so I replaced the whole thing for $30)
• Serpentine belt tensioner housing/pulley (mine was fine)
• Idler pulley (bearings in mine are worn & rattly, needs replacing)

Related part pics:

New VVT w/ heat-treated spot:


New chain (left) vs. old chain (right) (doesn't really look stretched but the tensioner was out halfway vs 1/4 of the way with new parts):


Left chain guide (it looks grooved but it was just visual, it felt totally smooth to my finger; I reused both guides):


New chain tensioner (w/ the pushpin-like retaining pin still in):


Replacement hex head idler pulley bolt w/ washer (left) vs. the shitty tall-head easily-rounded stock flange-head bolt (right):


This is what the OCV should look like when unpowered at full timing retard, with the spring pushing the piston from left to right, partially obstructing the left-most oil feedway (notice the FSM drawing below it). When powered with 12V at full timing advance, the piston should slide to the left, opening the left-most oil feedway and partially obstructing the right-most one.



~ ~ ~ ~ ~


Tools:

Tools I would DEFINITELY recommend:

• Official Mazda timing SST's (Or any other legit machined SS plate & TDC pin; I borrowed 2 sets and one pin wouldn't thread in all the way & the plate was just waterjetted low-grade steel and was bent on arrival)
• A HEADLAMP (I wore my Petzl Myo RXP for 3 days straight; I can't imagine working on my car without it)
• 1/2"-drive pneumatic impact gun (500+ ft-lbs max torque w/ at least 3/8" ID hose; I bought & returned this little red one from Harbor Freight)
• Universal pulley holder (for holding the crank pulley when torquing the crank bolt; I bought & returned this one from Amazon)
• 24"+ 1/2"-drive breaker bar (26" Harbor Freight one worked great, even for getting that 90 degrees on the crank bolt w/o a cheater bar)
• 18"+ 1/2"-drive socket extensions (for torquing the crank bolt through the wheel well; mine were all impact extensions which are softer and won't crack)
• ARP Ultra-Torque thread lubricant (for getting precise torque on the crank bolt/making it managable; check out this thread where [MENTION=7750]phate[/MENTION]; does torque analysis on the crank bolt with and without ARP UT lube)
• Long-handled wrench set (including 24mm; for holding cams, tightening fuel pump line nut, etc)
• 6-pt 10mm closed-ended wrench (long-handled if possible but 6-pt is the important part; you most likely won't be able to get a socket on the idler & water pump pulley bolts and a 12-pt wrench will most likely just round those suckers off)
• U-joint socket adapters (mainly 1/4"- & 3/8"-drive; there are several spots where these come in handy for dealing with pesky bolts & shitty Mazda tool access)
• Feeler gauge (down to 0.0015" or 0.002"; for ensuring crank stays up against the TDC pin)
• Large 8-9" strap wrench (for holding water pump pulley when loosening/tightening bolts; I bought & returned one from O'Reilly)
• Ziploc bags, painters tape, Sharpie paint markers (for organizing bolts, labeling ignition coils/timing cover bolt order, marking VVT position/crank bolt head)

Tools I bought but did NOT need:

• Cheater bar/breaker bar extension (I bought & returned 36" steel pipe from Home Depot)
• E8 inverted torx socket (I didn't remove the HPFP from the housing; I removed the whole fuel pump assembly as one piece)
• 1/2" ID rubber air compressor hose (some other threads said they couldn't get the crank bolt off with a 3/8" ID hose, but mine came off after 9-10 blips using 3/8" ID hose and even with quick connects on both ends)

Related tool pics:

The official Mazda TDC SST (thanks a million [MENTION=19675]TheRoyceWay[/MENTION]; ) which was machined billet SS so it was sturdy as hell (notice it is thinner where it slots into the cams but thicker elsewhere; low-quality knockoffs are usually the same thickness throughout and made of weaker steel so they bend easier):


The official Mazda TDC SST (also from TheRoyceWay) which had a fairly thin shank (this worried me about torquing the crank bolt with it in) but it threaded in all the way and set a perfect TDC position:


The knock-off TDC pin I borrowed from somebody else which had a MUCH larger shank but the threads weren't cut all the way up so it didn't thread in all the way and allowed the crank to rotate a few degrees beyond TDC (it was almost impossible to tell, however, so I might not have known if I didn't have the real SST to double-check it with; scary stuff):



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Procedure notes (in pseudo-chronological order):

Idler & water pump pulleys:

• Remove these pulleys AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE. It literally took us 2 hours (including a trip to the store) to remove these 4 bolts and about half that time to put them back on. If you can't get one of these pulleys off for whatever reason (rounding the bolt, tool access, etc), this is a NON-STARTER and you will NOT be able to continue with this job so don't waste your time removing other things if you aren't sure you can get these pulleys off. These almost made me throw in the towel after 4 hours of other disassembly.
• Realistically you should remove these 2 pulleys immediately after removing the TMIC (or FMIC piping), battery & box, and intake (but maybe you could even do it before all that). I waited until after all those, plus disconnecting the entire wiring harness, then I needed to move the coolant & P/S reservoirs, remove the PMM and jack up the engine. That would have been a lot of work wasted if I didn't have [MENTION=36219]Patty-Wack[/MENTION]; 's especially skinny Husky socket wrench for the idler bolt.
• When reinstalling the water pump pulley after putting everything back together, you MUST slip the pulley onto the pump from the TOP side BEFORE you bolt the P/S pump back in place. There isn't enough room to squeeze it in from the bottom so you'll need to remove the P/S pump again if you already bolted it on (and it has 3 very annoying bolts). Ask me how I know.

Here's why head height matters on the idler pulley bolt (this is the NEW shorter-head bolt and a very skinny 1/4"-drive socket wrench; using a 12-pt wrench just rounded the shit out of the stock bolt, hence the necessity for fitting a socket on it):


Mmm, dat tool access (ehem, Mazda):


This is the easiest of the 3 P/S pump bolts, no joke (this is an example where those socket U-joint adapters come in handy). There is one bolt to the left of this one which is completely obstructed by that black hardline (I had to use a box wrench and muscle-match the torque) and the 3rd is underneath which I had to get to from basically inside the front bumper while lying on my back. Getting a torque wrench on these is even more fun/impossible.


Strap wrench holding the water pump pulley when re-tightening the 3 bolts (the wrench is actually a flare nut wrench cuz it's sort of a 6-pt 10mm wrench and my 12-pt was in danger of rounding these bolts, too):


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Timing cover removal/installation:

• Many of the 22 timing cover bolts are different sizes AND lengths so I wrote out #'s 1-22 on paper towel and taped the bolts down onto their number as I took them out. Having a second set of hands during this was a big time-saver.
• When reinstalling the timing cover, try to get it aligned the first try and finger-thread in the 3 big bolts by the PMM to hold it in place. You don't want the RTV getting wiped off or made non-continuous by clumsily smacking the timing cover against the engine.
• When installing the 22 bolts, first install them all (following the number labels you hopefully created) and just snug them up with a socket wrench to squeeze the RTV and make a good seal. Then go back through and torque them to spec in the order specified in the FSM.

This is how I taped each of the timing cover bolts down and numbered them as I took them out (and put them back in reverse order per the FSM):


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Replacing crankshaft/timing cover oil seal:

• This is not required but it's a wear item that requires removal of the crank bolt to replace (which therefore also requires replacement of the crank bolt because it's TTY) so I replaced mine.
• This seal can be tricky to remove (even with the timing cover already removed). If you have a seal/gasket remover (it's a hook-shaped thing), use that now, otherwise get yourself a BFScrewdriver, another one with a cylindrical handle, and a rag.
• Wrap the tip of the BFS in the rag and stick it carefully through the opening of the crank seal and under the lip of the seal on the other side. Leveraging the BFS over the 2nd screwdriver's handle, carefully but forcibly pry that sucker out of there. It's pretty damn tight.

I removed the crankshaft oil seal with the timing cover in this orientation (best for prying, but you could also try hammering it out from the other side; this did NOT work for me when hammering a screwdriver into the backside; notice the BFScrewdriver sitting there):


Old crankshaft/timing cover seal (didn't look torn/worn but it's a seal so I replaced it):


Try not to gouge your timing cover when leveraging out the old crankshaft/timing cover seal like I did with a BFScrewdriver (it's a decent scratch but mine isn't leaking yet so whatever):


I used a mallet and a 32mm socket (that I have sitting around...) to LIGHTLY tap in the new crankshaft/timing cover seal (it should sit ~0.5-1.0mm below the outer surface of the timing cover per the FSM):


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Setting the chain tension:

• Make sure the cam alignment plate and TDC pin are in place when setting the tension. You don't want to destroy any valves by accident.
• Loosen BOTH the intake (VVT) and exhaust sprockets. Yes, I said BOTH. You will not be able to set the chain tension evenly if you don't loosen the exhaust cam. As me how I know.
• Replace the friction washers behind each of the cam sprockets (carefully spin the washer down the bolt threads; do NOT just push them on).
• With the crank pulley off, pull the pin on the chain tensioner. Now PUSH the left chain guide (by the tensioner) in toward the chain. It should click out another notch or 2. This is very important as if you forget this and the tensioner clicks out AFTER you've tightened the cams down, your tension will become uneven and you'll need to loosen both cams again and start over. Ask me how I know.
• Cycle the chain through a couple cycles by spinning the VVT. Remember, the crank is locked by the TDC pin and the cams are locked by the alignment plate so the 3 sprockets & chain are spinning freely.
• Tighten the exhaust sprocket first while holding the cam with a 24mm wrench. The sprocket should NOT rotate relative to the cam when you torque it down. If it does, your chain tension will become uneven.
• Now torque the VVT. The same ^^ goes for this sprocket.

Here's a long-ish video of me setting the chain tension. Note that I FORGOT to push on the tensioner arm and click the tensioner out another click or 2 after pulling the pin and before torquing the cams down, so I ended up having to loosen both cams again later and redo this (which is not ideal because technically the cam friction washers need to be replaced after every time they are torqued and loosened).
Mazdaspeed 3 VVT/Timing Chain/Etc DIY Repair - Setting Chain Tension

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Finding (and staying at) TDC:

• BEFORE reinstalling the timing cover, you want to establish TDC on the crankshaft. This allows you to visually and physically confirm that TDC has been found and retained.
• Put in your TDC pin, LIGHTLY thread on the crank bolt FINGER TIGHT, and then rotate it very slowly with a socket wrench until the crank contacts the TDC pin. Verify this by looking at the TDC pin/crank contact and then trying to push the thinnest piece of your feeler gauge between the TDC pin and the flat on the crank (my feeler gauge had a 0.0015" shim); it should NOT fit between the TDC pin & crank.
• Now grab your impact gun and zip off the crank bolt without turning the crank CCW AT ALL. Verify that you didn't move the crank by visually and physically (yes, with the feeler gauge again) confirming that the crank is still touching the TDC pin.
• This step is imperative as the crank can move slightly without you noticing and it will mess up your timing. It took me several tries to get this right without the crank rotating CCW off of the TDC pin, so be patient! This is one of the steps that could really mess up your engine if done wrong.
• You should do this now because later (after installing the timing cover) when the crank pulley is in place, you cannot safely assume that the initial torque on the crank bolt will rotate the crank up against the TDC pin. This is because the crank pulley & friction washers are sandwiched together, which should prevent the crank from spinning at all relative to the crank pulley (that's exactly what the washers' job is). You also can't see the crank anymore so you need to be at TDC BEFORE installing the timing cover and crank pulley.

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Crankshaft bolt torquing:

• The cam alignment plate and TDC pin should be intalled for this step.
• I bought, used & returned a universal pulley holder (which is very similar to the Mazda SST shown in the FSM) to go along with the TDC pin and the M6 bolt when torquing the crank bolt.
• I bought a 50mm M10 bolt to thread into the TDC pin hole (like some people did in another thread on here) to hold the crank with a bit more shaft width (giggity) but I couldn't get the M10 in the slot because the passenger axle was in the way.
• I ended up using the knock-off TDC pin to hold the crank while I torqued the crank bolt, but I had to use pliers to gently thread it in all the way (I know that's not the best idea). I first used the Mazda TDC SST to set TDC, removed that and then screwed in the thicker TDC pin until it snugged up against the crank flat (I used a feeler gauge to verify it was touching).
• I applied a liberal amount of ARP Ultra-Torque thread lube to the crank bolt threads, head & washer. This really helped make the TTY part manageable.
• I used a torque wrench with NO extensions to get the first 75 ft-lbs on the crank bolt.
• Then I used ~20" of 1/2"-drive socket extensions with a 26" breaker bar to get the 90 degrees. I did all of that 90 with just my right hand applying about half my body weight and the breaker bar head resting on my knee w/ my left hand pulling up on it slightly (remember I smothered the crank bolt in that ARP lube).
• When realigning the crank position sensor, make sure that the crank is still butted up against the TDC pin (I did this by leaving my breaker bar & 21mm socket w/ no extensions on the crank bolt sticking off to the right so gravity was torquing the crank bolt CW up against the TDC pin). I didn't make marks on my CKP sensor before removing it but that doesn't matter as long as you align the center precisely with the center of the 20th tooth when you're at TDC.
• After the crank bolt is torqued, remove the M6x1.0 bolt and the universal pulley holder from the crank pulley and remove the cam alignment plate but leave the TDC pin in place. Now try to turn the crank clockwise with your socket wrench. It shouldn't turn at all. If it does, that means your crank wasn't actually touching the TDC pin before you torqued the crank bolt down and your timing is going to be OFF (remember what I said in the "Finding and staying at TDC" section?).
• Assuming all is well, now remove the TDC pin and cycle the crank few a couple cycles and check the chain tension every few degrees. There will be tighter and looser spots but the difference should be minimal. Check out my video, below, for what my freshly-set tension looked like.

Universal pulley holder & M6x1.0 bolt holding the crank pulley in place (this was the most logical angle for the pulley holder as it needs to contact the ends of 2 slots on the pulley so there are limited orientations that work):


I wedged a random piece of wood between the pulley holder and whatever suspension bolt this was (the wood was thinner than a 2x4 I think; I covered the holder with a rag to avoid scratching it since I was returning it later):


Getting that 90 degrees only took me a couple minutes and about half my body weight of force in this position:


Crank bolt marked at 0 degrees:


Crank bolt turned almost to 90 degrees (I went a few more degrees after taking this photo):


Crank position sensor aligned & torqued down:


Here's what my chain tension was like after torquing the crank bolt (along with another description of how I set the tension):
Mazdaspeed 3 VVT/Timing Chain/Etc DIY Repair - Chain Tension After Crank Bolt Torque

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Installing valve cover & gaskets:

• The underside of my VC didn't have any serious gouges from chain slap but there were definitely some shiny teeth marks on a few ribs.
• These were the weirdest gaskets (there are 2) that I've ever seen so here are some pics. It's not hard to put these on correctly, they're just funky.
• Each of the collared VC bolts needs to be pushed into the VC from the top, then secured into its corresponding hole in the appropriate gasket. This ensures that both gaskets are held in place perfectly when reinstalling the VC to create a complete seal.
• It should be obvious which direction the gaskets go in because the holes will only line up one direction. Just to be idiot-proof, the edge with the small bumps goes INTO the VC slot. There is also a weird 3D part of the big outer gasket that also only will fit into the VC one way.
• Make sure you've secured ALL of the VC bolts into the gasket holes before reinstalling the VC. Also, don't forget the few spots that need RTV silicone on the head and make sure to tighten the VC bolts in the order specified in the FSM.

Bite marks from chain slap on the underside of my VC:


VC with both gaskets installed:


Securing the VC gaskets around the special collared VC bolts:


Ribs on the VC gaskets go INTO the slot on the VC:


The weird 3D section of the big outer VC gasket (it only fits on 1 way):



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Questions?

Ask away!

 

Most of your photos are dead now.

 

FUCK. I texted him.

 

Holy shit balls - that job would take me days upon days to do if I were to attempt it.

 

Will be working to fix the images...

 

Hey all, sorry about the lack of response here, @SeeMeGovan I have an original file that we can work on if you want to take part. PM me.

 

Pics?

 

Any updates on the images?

 

I rehosted all of Rokusek's images on imgur, but I can't edit his post. I copied my post over in it's entirety.

 

You are amazing! Can you pm me and I'll update the OP?