How To: Mazdaspeed 3/Mazdaspeed 6/CX-7 VVT The Roku Way

Wow. I did a how to remove engine on MSF and well this How To puts that to shame. Im pulling my engine and know it would be a good time to be doing this but I have no VVT issue and even with engine pulled this is a job. If do this might as well build engine. So cross my fingers I never come back to this thread. Just wanted to say THANKS for making it.

 

Pulling your engine sounds like an excellent time to recreate that how-to here, if you're so inclined.

 

funny, i wrote this threads... idk how many years ago, and here I am, YEARS later using it as a refresher to do the VVT on my MS6 Helga.

 

Old age is hell on the memory

 

I remember most all of this stuff. And I'm not that old ☹️

 

Thread got derailed and has been cleaned up, let's keep the how to thread related to the topic. The conversation that was happening is suited for the off topic section of the forum.

Rokusek, it's great that your own thread was able to help you as well.

 

Yes it is, this thread has helped a ton of people tremendously, I just hope it continues to do so for a long time. There are some things I need to correct though, some reordering of things might not be a bad idea. After i finish Helga's timing I'm gonna make those corrections.

 

I have a question, it might be a dumb question, but still a question. Is the M6 x 1 bolt the same bolt that is removed to install the TDC crank bolt/pin, or is it just a 6m x 1 bolt you had laying around?

 

No... I don't have the dimensions. Look at threads to get more info. Mazdaspeed and Ford motors of same family use same size. The bolt will bottom out into block and the projecting end will touch crank counterweight to give you the proper crankshaft position for timing.

 

This is a great question, only dumb question is the one you don't ask. This is a question I too asked myself and is one for the things I want to add info on/update in the OP.

For this step, I actually used a timing cover bolt. One of the shorter ones works well, but I do recommend having some kind of tool to hold the pulley in place. But no, this is not the same bolt.

I have this tool that was made by a fellow member.

With this I was able to use the timing cover bolt to holt the pulley in place, but use this tool to physically hold it while applying final torque.

Does that help?

 

Thank you for clearing that up for me! I have probably read through this post at least 3 or 4 times, there is a lot of good information in here. Hopefully I'll have my car back on the road soon.

 

Have you started the swap yet? I'll be happy to answer any questions and guide you through it. It is a very tedious job that can be stressful of you aren't comfortable with it. But I'm the end is a huge weight off the shoulders.

 

I ordered the kit/alignment tools, ended up going through Edge Autosports. I also bought some extra washers just in case I need them, along with the oil pump chain and tensioner/guide.
Yesterday I just took the battery out, the ECU, fuel pump and housing. I moved all the wiring harnesses out of the way and moved the power steering and coolant reservoirs off to the side.
Not sure when I will see parts yet but I plan on taking my time and making sure I don't have any issues.
If I do have questions I will probably lean on you/this forum a bit, I do appreciate the offer.

 

That's awesome! Edge is fantastic man. And yes 100% take your time. I did my most recent in about a week. DO NOT RUSH, especially if you have the ability to let the car sit.

Just work on it an hour or two a night till you get it done.

 

If you need more info I also have a bunch of how to's that are a little simplified. I used this thread and a few others when I did mine. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/timing-the-mzr-disi.8722/

 

So glad you did this, a huge help to the community and the platform. Makes doing the VVT that much easier with MUCH better pictures.

 

So, I got my timing set today which is great, but soon realized I never ordered an extra cam bolt for the exhaust side. I figured since it is recommended to replace this anytime you are disassembling the timing set, I should probably order one for that as well? Anyone know of this bolt failing when reused?

I would guess that even though it is not a TTY bolt it still has stretched some and could potentially fail. I did notice that you rolled the dice and didn't replace the exhaust cam washer or bolt, did that ever come back to bite you?

My wife has loaded me up with things to do before playing with the car so, I have time to order another bolt just to be safe, I just wanted to see what you guys think?

 

I have done... Idk how many of these. I have reused the cam bolts and cam friction washers on stock cars that we planned to build at a later date. I only reused the friction washers as the owners of those cars took the chance as you are debating. One of those motors failed before we built. The others did not however the bolts where not as tight as they should have been.

Now, I have reused cam bolts with new washers countless times with low modded cars or stock cars and had no troubles.

Considering your situation, I would not take the chance and just do it the right way. You only need the bolt and washer for the intake cam as you have no need to remove the sprocket on the exhaust cam.

And for reference, I did reuse some parts on my current MS6, when I shouldn't have, but I am doing other work that will require timing to be broken before this summer is over.

Personally, replace them as YOU probably do not want to do this again.

 

Yeah I'll probably just replace both cam bolts since I have to loosen them both to spin the chain to equalize tension. It would be my luck to have that break/come loose later. Thanks again!

 

You do not have to break the exhaust sprocket loose at all. Only the intake with the VVT on it.