How To: Mazdaspeed 3/Mazdaspeed 6/CX-7 VVT The Roku Way

LOL I just realized I was getting confused with what SeeMeGovan posted in this thread and what you posted... I was like I could have sworn I read that it was recommended to do that. Sorry for any confusion.

 

No worries, just don't see a point in replacing it if it is not necessary. No harm in it. But by no means is it required. I have a few things I need to update on the OP still for some clarification.

How far out are you being able to do this?

 

I might be able to sneak into the garage this weekend and get the disassembly done but it's most likely gonna be next weekend.

 

Ok, I'm gonna send you my cell, that way if you run into a snag you have instant contact.

 

@TheAcumen Just remember if you get someone's number from here dick pics are expected.

Tapasuck, it sucks a lot.

 

You never sent me dick pics...

Staying on topic:

One of the things I wanted to address before you start (and I will fix the OP this weekend)

DO NOT BREAK TIMING until you have put the crank at TDC and place your Cam tool.

After doing this on my 6 last weekend, reading the OP and shop manual I realized it was something that was wrong on my wording.

Anyways, you have my number, please do not hesitate to call with questions.

 

I think I'll just stand naked over a mirror and send that? You get a bit of everything.

But for real @Rokusek, dude I owe you big time! I can send you some belly button lint or old cheese? Never in my life did I image a forum interaction that went like this. You are one hell of a guy for the amount of time you gave to me over the past few days. I hope I can help you some day or at least pay it forward.

 

I like belly button lint...

All I ask is to pay it forward. This community used to be amazing and extremely helpful and that's all I want to see here.

You are very welcome for all the help, do not hesitate to ask for help or call if your stuck with something.

Always happy to help man.

Now finish getting that car back together and send me a startup/running video

 

Can you elaborate a bit on what can happen if the tensioner isn't clicked out that extra one or two slots? Just curious

 

The entire point of doing that is to ensure there is plenty of tension on the entire timing set before you torque everything down.

In regards to the section titled "Setting the chain tension".

• With the crank pulley off, pull the pin on the chain tensioner. Now PUSH the left chain guide (by the tensioner) in toward the chain. It should click out another notch or 2. This is very important as if you forget this and the tensioner clicks out AFTER you've tightened the cams down, your tension will become uneven and you'll need to loosen both cams again and start over. Ask me how I know.
• Cycle the chain through a couple cycles by spinning the VVT. Remember, the crank is locked by the TDC pin and the cams are locked by the alignment plate so the 3 sprockets & chain are spinning freely.
• Tighten the exhaust sprocket first while holding the cam with a 24mm wrench. The sprocket should NOT rotate relative to the cam when you torque it down. If it does, your chain tension will become uneven.
• Now torque the VVT. The same ^^ goes for this sprocket.

 

Is this the cam follower? I'm having a hard time getting it back into the cam housing without touching it too much.

 

Yeah, but you can touch it with clean hands, cover it in engine oil and slide it in

 

It's safe to touch the inside of the follower bucket EXCEPT the part in the very center where the internals ride against. Avoid touching the outside of it if you can.

 

Thanks guys. Can I clean it with kerosene or brake parts cleaner?

 

Use lighter fluid (naphtha) for cleaning and re-lube with engine oil before reinstalling.

 

Thanks again for all the help especially to the OP.

In this thread: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/timing-the-mzr-disi.8722/

He mentions removing the camshafts first when finding TDC as to not damage a valve. I don't believe that applies to the standard method of finding TDC with the TDC pin inserted into the block when the engine is still in the car like for this write-up but I just want to make sure before I do this step.

 

The only way you will damage the valves is if the cams don't rotate with the crank (or aren't already timed properly).

 

So I shouldn't have the camshaft alignment plate (CAP) in when removing the crank pulley bolt, correct? I'm seeing conflicting advice on this step.

I'm guessing having the M6x1 bolt threaded through will keep the crank at TDC? (planning to use impact to take off bolt). Thanks again so much.

 

Don't put torque on the big crank bolt with that bolt in place or you will likely break your timing cover.
Someone else can chime in as to proper procedure otherwise, as I can't remember.

 

It can be confusing, and it's literally been like 10 years since I did this initial write up. But, I'm always open to help out. If you'd like, PM me and I'll give you my number to call and I can walk you through and answer any questions.

Sometimes getting someone on the phone is much better than reading it.

However, when removing everything. The big thing/only thing is to have the TDC pin in place on the crank. Don't worry about the cams until you are ready to line everything back up and start to actually set timing and torque everything down. As long as the cams are generally in the correct position (TDC cylinder 1) when you put the pin in, you should be fine. The crank will move freely after timing is broken same with the cams.

The M6 bolt is only there to help keep the pulley in alignment with the crank. There are a couple tools that help with this as well.

I might need to go back through and redo this write up to make it even easier to understand.

I hope this helps.