How To: Mazdaspeed 3/Mazdaspeed 6/CX-7 VVT The Roku Way

I also have a thread on timing if that helps. Usually the more info the better. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/timing-the-mzr-disi.8722/ It seems more confusing than it is. This video also helped me a lot.

 

I love that you did this. Even I have to reference both threads.

 

Original: Thanks again everybody. Okay so I just replaced the VVT actuator and when I was reinstalling the C.A.P. I was having a hard time getting the intake cam to line up to fit the plate. When I would turn the intake cam towards the rear of the car with a wrench, I would notice some resistance, I believe it was the lobes contacting the tappets. And when I would release pressure on the wrench I would heard a clunking sound.

I don't remember this happening when I first installed the C.A.P. when I first got the timing cover off.

Update: Ok I think I figured it out. So the lobes for cylinder #3 on the intake cam is just starting to contacting the the tappets. When I turn the intake cam a teeny bit clockwise, it starts pushing down on the tappet, and I think the resistance I'm feeling is probably the valve spring pushing back? or some other part of the valvetrain. I don't think its the valves hitting the piston because cylinder #3 is at BDC if I understand 4-stroke cycle correctly.

The sound I was hearing was the 24mm wrench hitting the tappet below the hexagon nut (doh!)




Also: If the camshaft friction washers will be getting oil on them after they are installed, why is it so important to make sure they are not contaminated before installing?

 

To ensure proper torque and that they seat properly. Once they are tight, oil will probably not get to the diamond surface, only the surface you can see.

 

In the original write up it said that you weren’t able to remove the oil pump sprocket to replace the third friction washer. Isn’t that risking it from slipping time?

 

The oil pump isnt timed to the engine cycle. I think it was due to stopping the pump from rotating would be difficult. Im guessing.

 

Probably need to remove the oil pump sprocket BEFORE you remove the crank bolt.

 

How do i do that if the oil pump sprocket is cover by the timing cover?

 

Fromundah

Like, just break the bolt loose from underneath.

 

So I tried doing the crank pulley bolt but I think I may have made a mistake somewhere as I was only able to get it to about 30 degrees after the initial torque to 70 ft lbs. I also used ARP ultra-torque lube on the bolt.

When I did the initial torque I think I may have gone over 70 ft lbs, thus making is harder to get more torque on the bolt after. I also forgot to tell my friend to hold down the brake pedal (in 6th gear) while I did the initial torque. I was also using a 24" extension which was a little awkward to keep level when using the breaker bar.

Can I remove the pulley bolt without the crank coming off of TDC using an impact gun so I can use a new bolt and try again?

 

The torque lube was completely unnecessary and is probably part of the issue. You can remove the bolt, use a new one and do it again. You will just have to make sure to recheck timing with the cam plate and your TDC pin. Before you go again.

It MUST go another 90*. The bolt is torque to yield and does not need any lube or lock tite.

 

I used the ARP bolt for this very reason. It is not TTY and can be removed and used again. It has tq specs that for me were just easier. It was also cheaper but you need a 12pt socket for it.
Bolt
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=1659
Instructions
https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/251-2501.pdf

 

Ok finally got the crank bolt done. No lube this time.

When oiling the lifter that goes inside the fuel pump, should I oil the inside of it also, or just the outside? Also, should the rubber o-ring replacement for the fuel pump be oiled as well? Thanks.

 

Oil both sides of the cam follower. For the o-ring, if anything use some petroleum jelly.

 

When I put some oil over the chain before putting the VC back on, is it ok for the VVT actuator and other camshaft sprocket to get oil on them? Thanks.

 

Yes. It's just a nice precaution for ensuring the first start in completely bone dry up there. All those components are fine to have oil on them.

 

Hi Im about to do the timing chain on my cx7, just have something wanted some advices...thanks
My cx7 is 2011, I assumed its has the revised VVT sprocket, Is that absolute necessity to replace the VVT? Will it make the engine less noisy? I can see my chain stretched.
I plan to replace all the guides because those are plastic, as well as the tensioners
Thanks in advance

 

Yes, replace it all as per the OP don't cheap out

 

Absolutely you do, if you have questions do not hesitate to ask here.

When are you planning on doing the work?

 

Ok thanks. So I should replace the VVT, the chain, the tensioners, washers, guides, the oil chain and sprocket doesnt have to replace right...
Maybe I will do it in a month a so, I live in Aus and not have to order part oversea, the dealer here quote a crazy price for parts lol