How To: Mazdaspeed 3/Mazdaspeed 6/CX-7 VVT The Roku Way

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 How-To' started by Rokusek, Feb 16, 2016.

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  1. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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  2. Rokusek

    Rokusek Are you my dad? Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Rokusek, via a mobile device, Sep 8, 2023
    #62
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  3. djmano

    djmano Greenie Member

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    Original: Thanks again everybody. Okay so I just replaced the VVT actuator and when I was reinstalling the C.A.P. I was having a hard time getting the intake cam to line up to fit the plate. When I would turn the intake cam towards the rear of the car with a wrench, I would notice some resistance, I believe it was the lobes contacting the tappets. And when I would release pressure on the wrench I would heard a clunking sound.

    I don't remember this happening when I first installed the C.A.P. when I first got the timing cover off.

    Update: Ok I think I figured it out. So the lobes for cylinder #3 on the intake cam is just starting to contacting the the tappets. When I turn the intake cam a teeny bit clockwise, it starts pushing down on the tappet, and I think the resistance I'm feeling is probably the valve spring pushing back? or some other part of the valvetrain. I don't think its the valves hitting the piston because cylinder #3 is at BDC if I understand 4-stroke cycle correctly.

    The sound I was hearing was the 24mm wrench hitting the tappet below the hexagon nut (doh!)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Also: If the camshaft friction washers will be getting oil on them after they are installed, why is it so important to make sure they are not contaminated before installing?
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2023
  4. SyntheticAtmosphere

    SyntheticAtmosphere You only get ONE ride, ONE ticket, ONE time! Silver Member

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    To ensure proper torque and that they seat properly. Once they are tight, oil will probably not get to the diamond surface, only the surface you can see.
     
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  5. Sleepin6

    Sleepin6 Patients equals more psi’s Silver Member

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    In the original write up it said that you weren’t able to remove the oil pump sprocket to replace the third friction washer. Isn’t that risking it from slipping time?
     
  6. SyntheticAtmosphere

    SyntheticAtmosphere You only get ONE ride, ONE ticket, ONE time! Silver Member

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    The oil pump isnt timed to the engine cycle. I think it was due to stopping the pump from rotating would be difficult. Im guessing.
     
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  7. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Probably need to remove the oil pump sprocket BEFORE you remove the crank bolt.
     
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  8. Sleepin6

    Sleepin6 Patients equals more psi’s Silver Member

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    How do i do that if the oil pump sprocket is cover by the timing cover?
     
  9. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Fromundah

    Like, just break the bolt loose from underneath.
     
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  10. djmano

    djmano Greenie Member

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    So I tried doing the crank pulley bolt but I think I may have made a mistake somewhere as I was only able to get it to about 30 degrees after the initial torque to 70 ft lbs. I also used ARP ultra-torque lube on the bolt.

    When I did the initial torque I think I may have gone over 70 ft lbs, thus making is harder to get more torque on the bolt after. I also forgot to tell my friend to hold down the brake pedal (in 6th gear) while I did the initial torque. I was also using a 24" extension which was a little awkward to keep level when using the breaker bar.

    Can I remove the pulley bolt without the crank coming off of TDC using an impact gun so I can use a new bolt and try again?
     
  11. Rokusek

    Rokusek Are you my dad? Motorhead Platinum Member

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    The torque lube was completely unnecessary and is probably part of the issue. You can remove the bolt, use a new one and do it again. You will just have to make sure to recheck timing with the cam plate and your TDC pin. Before you go again.

    It MUST go another 90*. The bolt is torque to yield and does not need any lube or lock tite.
     
    Rokusek, via a mobile device, Dec 20, 2023
    #71
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  12. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Motorhead Silver Member

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    I used the ARP bolt for this very reason. It is not TTY and can be removed and used again. It has tq specs that for me were just easier. It was also cheaper but you need a 12pt socket for it.
    Bolt
    https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=1659
    Instructions
    https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/251-2501.pdf
     
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  13. djmano

    djmano Greenie Member

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    Ok finally got the crank bolt done. No lube this time.

    When oiling the lifter that goes inside the fuel pump, should I oil the inside of it also, or just the outside? Also, should the rubber o-ring replacement for the fuel pump be oiled as well? Thanks.
     
  14. Rokusek

    Rokusek Are you my dad? Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Oil both sides of the cam follower. For the o-ring, if anything use some petroleum jelly.
     
    Rokusek, via a mobile device, Feb 1, 2024
    #74
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  15. djmano

    djmano Greenie Member

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    When I put some oil over the chain before putting the VC back on, is it ok for the VVT actuator and other camshaft sprocket to get oil on them? Thanks.
     
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  16. Rokusek

    Rokusek Are you my dad? Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Yes. It's just a nice precaution for ensuring the first start in completely bone dry up there. All those components are fine to have oil on them.
     
    Rokusek, via a mobile device, Feb 10, 2024
    #76
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