P0012 Dead End

Alright so I know there’s a few threads on here about this but I haven’t seen anybody with my direct circumstance.

Long post incoming…

Permanent Code P0012

I have a fresh built engine that had been built by a reputable shop. Mazda OEM VVT kit was installed at the time of build. I’m currently 250 miles into my everlasting break in period. Car runs great but is somehow tossing P0012. I have a Snap On Zeus that is showing the code to be permanent every time I think I have solved the issue.. I have looked at what I consider to be all the obvious issues. So here’s a list of everything I’ve done to try and solve this. Some of it was a long stretch I know but I’m really hoping to not have to redo the entire timing myself.
•Replaced VVT Solenoid with a brand new one. TWICE
•Checked chain slack at TDC.. It was tight and no signs of wear
•Sanded down the area that the camshaft position sensor mounts to on the valve cover since my valve cover was painted
•Replaced Camshaft Position Sensor with a new one TWICE
•Aligned the crank sensor while engine was at TDC. 20th toofer
•Cleaned the filter under the solenoid
•Replaced Oil Pressure Sensor
•Confirmed all bridge bolts were to spec
•Checked for any wiring issues or shorts
•Multiple oil changes and everything looked fine..
•Checked pickup tube and everything was Gucci

Mod List
•Corksport Balance Shaft delete and baffle plate
•Corksport CST4
•JBR 3.5 Intake
•VTCS Deleted
•Engine is built with Wisceo Pistons,Manley Htuffs,Supertech OE valves
•AEM HF fuel pump
•Autotechs
*Ultimate Racing HF catted down pipe
•Corksport Catback Exhaust
•Damond Mounts
•Damond PCV plate and Catch can
•Mishimoto M line FMIC

Tuned By Erik @ Dramatune

hoping to not have to replace timing components but I do have a kit ready to go if needed. I’d like to be 100% sure that the components are my issue before doing that. I have obviously deleted the codes and they always come back after two drive cycles.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Wiring go the sensor checks out too right? Voltmeter for a possible break?

 

Unrelated to your error but I wouldn't let dramatune touch my toaster let alone my car

 

I am shooting in the dark...with verification of clean basket filter in VVT cam cap.. Wondering if oil pressure is low? Can you double check actual engine pressure? The pressure switch is only really telling above about 10 psi... at least on mine with a clapped out oil pump, crank bearings..I had a hot oil idle of 10-15 which didn't trigger idiot light..
If system pressure isn't high enough to keep VVT at high rpm position, and since you have replaced twice...going to guess VVT can't be commanded to move.. no ecu commanded oil pressure = VVT internal spring pressure which is low rpm operation..
Have you had limp mode fault? P0012 after code clearing, cold motor (oil) idle only. Code reappear? Maybe a drive cycle synopsis and others can give more help too?
Edit-1 forgot to mention..on cold start drive cycle...ecu will command a stroke of control of solenoid and associated valve position change and if that faults to a point ecu determines is damaging...Limp mode and actual shutdown after idle / throttle can't keep engine running for clutch starts. Happened to me many times before I figured out my specific issue. My VVT was completely broken and could move through mechanical limits by hand...