P0193 and stuttering

I am having a bit of a weird issue with my car and throwing code P0193
A couple weeks ago the car just started stuttering regardless of how fast or slow I was going and the code P0193 showed up on the scanner. I ended up getting Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor 0261545074 online to see if it would fix the issue but it actually made it worst and the car stopped turning on. (the only mod the car has in a K&N short ram intake with a little wall.)

I took it to a local mechanic where he put back the original fuel pressor sensor and "cleaned" the intake filter and suddenly the car started running again BUT the mechanic did not hit boost enough to see if it had any further issues. As I took it for a spin and hit WOT the car starts to buck/stutter... I took off the intake filter and suddenly the car was working like it was suppose to without the stutter....I ran it for 3-4 pulls, went home and put the filter on as I didn't want to damage anything further.

I drove the car for a week without going over 60% throttle and it ran ok. Once the COLD weather hit it just started bucking/stuttering just driving lightly down the road again. Once it warmed up the car stopped but then I got the code P0193 again along with a P2177 System too lean off idle Bank 1. I am having trouble finding an legitimate Fuel Pressure Sensor to replace the OEM one. Does anyone know what could be going on?

Today I cleaned the contacts of the ground cable like another user told me to do but it still bucks/stutters... At full boost the car shortly stutters/bucks and all of sudden just launches at full force... I have no idea what's going on.

 

Check your spark plug gap. 0.027

 

Thank you, I will do this ASAP.

 

"K&N short ram intake"
Is the MAF housing OEM size? Did you retain the OEM inlet pipe to the turbo? Are you running any sort of tune?

Recommend a dry flow filter, clean your maf sensor, and verify the intake you're running is OEM spec if you're rocking the OEM tune.

 

Yes almost everything but the K&N intake is stock. I switched over to a dry flow filter. I will clean the MAF sensor as suggested, thank you.

 

An update on installing another fuel rail sensor and it still gives me the same issues. Fuel pressure was reading at 450 on idle and on boost around 1750-ish. Car is still stuttering at WOT, I will be installing the new spark plugs with .026 gap on Monday.

 

Hey brother I had the same issue about a month ago now. I checked everything replaced sensor and relief valve and went over everything. Turns out when I moved the harness out of the way I must of pulled the hpfp wire and it came loose from the harness side. I ended up getting another harness. And problem solved.
Good luck and I hope you get yours sorted

 

So far I have tried everything stated above and nothing seemed to fix it yet. I have even tried two different fuel rail sensors. Which harness are you referring to? Do you have a picture of it so I can check mine to see if its good. Thank you!

 

I had something very similar here:

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/p0193-and-replacing-fuel-pressure-sensor.12668/

I had replaced the fuel pressure sensor, but the issue turned out to be the ground near the HPFP. I cleaned the plate and connector up a lot (some sanding) along with using deoxit and the issue never came back.

 

I cleaned this ground here in the photo attached. Am I cleaning the right ground?

 

Yes. Maybe an unnecessary question, but did you remove it and clean the side which makes contact? And also the plate which it contacts?

 

Yes I cleaned both sides as best as I could and today I cleaned the plate a bit more to see if it helps.

 

I accidentally posted on the wrong post. So I bought that fuel rail sensor you recommended and the weirdest thing happened. I installed it just fine.. Ran the car and it felt fine.... I went home and parked it. Later that day I started up the car and let it warm up and the check engine light came on and I ended up getting the code P2188 System too rich at idle bank 1. Is the sensor I got defective?

 

That seems doubtful it is defective. Maybe you could start a new thread with your new error code? My only thought would be to check that the throttle body is working properly. Also to clear the code and see if it keeps coming back.

Edit: maybe clean your MAF sensor also.

 

Thank you, I ended up clearing the code and putting the new MAF sensor I had. The weird thing about all this is that the car is actually running BETTER than before but the code showed up randomly LOL. I honestly don't understand, its not even bucking anymore hahaha.

 

Hello friends,
I'm having a similar issue, stutter in the upper RPMS and was thinking it was spark or coil, kept telling me it was cyl 1 misfire. but after driving a bit, i got a new code for crank position. I dont know if this was one of the sensors you replaced, but maybe something to keep an eye out for.

 

Did you resolve your issue @UncleTurbo ?

I've gone through some struggles recently starting with the same P0193 code, getting the sensor replaced, then getting some weird stuff I will post about separately. As part of the weird stuff debug, I took TMIC off to have a look in the turbo area and after I had P2188. It turned out to be 15 year old hoses that have the imprint of the hose clamps, and the mechanics had not placed these back in the exact same way. I took both hoses from the TMIC completely off (clamps were stuck to the hose on the turbo side), cleaned everything well, put them back in the correct way and the codes went away.

 

Sadly no, Its still on going. I got stuck till this weekend to even get a chance to look at it and get some logs. (Rain, work, ECT kept me from it) I did change the plugs to oem heat and got some new oem coils for it and that helped. Changed out cyl 1 injector and that took care of the misfire there, and replaced the oem gasket with the CS intake manifold gasket.

HOWEVER...
I now have P0302... the same problem as Cyl 1 has jumped to cyl 2. But, I believe its my injectors. The ones I purchased are supposed to be correct P#, cleaned ultrasonic inside and out, and flow tested. I now believe NONE OF THAT BS! I think what I was sold is either oem Mazda 3 injectors, or, MS3 injectors that are just cleaned on the outside with new o rings. Every time I start the car after its sat for the night, it chokes its self down and takes 3-4 times to actually start. Fuel PSI is low and then jumps up, making me think those injectors are leaking into the head and cause the misfire.
I have taken some datalogs and will be putting them up shortly.
Thank you for the advice though. I will also look into this !

 

It may seem like snake oil, but if I were concerned about injectors I would run a bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner. It’s cheap. And it works (under certain circumstances, at least).

 

How well charged is your battery a weak battery can cause some sputtering at idle like you are describing