How to: RaiderFab 2nd Gen Mazdaspeed 3 Bumper Fitment Fix

****If you have ANY questions about the instructions, do not proceed until you contact RaiderFab! There is a chat option on raiderfab.com, email raiderfabusa@gmail.com, or message on social media, PRIOR to drilling holes or making any modification which cannot be undone.****

****Final Bracket Design has 1 slot near the headlight area for use. Use the back fenderwell area bolt location to install the fenderwell latch pin**** email raiderfabusa@gmail.com with any questions!****

UPDATE December 2022. RaiderFab is now a Quik Latch Distributor and will be selling the full kits directly in a matter of weeks! Will have black latches on initially, and will get all colors once some sales come in. Sign up on the website to be the 1st to know when open for sales!

https://raiderfab.myshopify.com/products/polished-2010-2013-mazdaspeed-3-bumper-fitment-solution

Quik-latch.com made a YouTube video, Check it out!

Last week @Sho and I helped install the @Raider Fab kit for a Gen 2 speed on @Shockerms3's car. I'd suggest reading through the entire guide before beginning just so you have an idea of everything that needs to be done.



Tools Needed:

10mm wrench
Rachet with 10mm socket
Flat head screw driver
Paint Pen
Unibit drill bit

Step 1.
Remove bumper tabs using the flat head screw driver. I didn't take pictures of that but if you're ordering this kit, you should probably know how to take the bumper off.

Step 2.
Set Bumper aside for drilling later

Step 3.
This is the OEM plastic bracket that holds the bumper on and we will be removing that. Remove the two black bolts first and there's a little clip on the back side that you can use the flat head to wiggle out.

Below is a picture of the clip.


Side Note:
The first picture is behind the plastic bracket and the second shows the orientation of the bracket. It's pretty straight forward but figured it wouldn't hurt to add it anyways.



Step 4.
I laid out driver's side bracket on the ground to show where the OEM bolt and the supplied studs go. Essentially the left bolt goes in the same spot but the right bolt is replaced by the longer threaded stud. The shorter threaded stud goes on the left slot of the new bracket. Same for the passenger side, everything is just mirrored.


Step 5.
On the driver's side working our way left to right we have the stock bolt and a spacer. The spacer goes between the car and the supplied bracket, then just thread the OEM bolt through.


Step 6.
Next is the left slot on the bracket, before putting the stud through the slot screw one nut on and slide one of the smaller washers on. Then slide the stud through and I used the larger washer on the back side along with another nut to secure it. We slid the stud all the way to the top of the slot then tightened it down. I used a wrench to hold the back side while I tightened the front with the ratchet.

Below is a reference for how many threads were showing on the back so you know how far to screw the stud in before tightening.


Step 7.
The next stud threads right in to the OEM bolt hole on the right side. On the front side we used the large washer, spacer, bracket hole then the lock washer provided. We removed the lock washer several times during the install which made the hole on the washer larger. We used the screwdriver to push the "teeth" down more so it locked like it was supposed to. Lastly we used one of the supplies nylon nuts on the back side to secure it in place.



Step 8.
Ensure the studs are sticking out appropriately with the latches attached. You can see the fenderwell stud is pretty much spot on while the headlight stud is sticking out too far. We had to go back and adjust to shorten the length. If you follow Step 6 then you should be fine but it doesn't hurt to double check.


Step 9.
This is where our friend Scott took over because we didn't have the guts to drill into someone else's bumper. I was actually gone getting food during this part but these are the pictures they took. This is the passenger side so you don't get confused since all the other pictures are on the driver's side. Scott started by using a paint pen and dabbing the ends of the studs then test fitting the bumper so he would know where to drill. In the picture the right stud slid down from not being all the way tight so just make sure to tighten the stud against the bracket so it doesn't slide during the test fit.

Step 10.
Next comes the fun part, drilling. He used a unibit drill bit to drill 3/4" out on each hole. Take your time!! Drill in slow increments and check often. It's a lot easier to drill out more if needed but if you drill too much then your SOL. These are the spots that Scott drilled out for reference.

You can test the hole size by putting in the latches. This also gives you a reference point on where the holes should be.



Raider edit: another option: Following my how to steps of a ball of claybar on the ball of the latch pin, punching the bumper and then step drill bit making sure it's centered works. Just like Gen1 fix. If you need to move the hole, it's easy. One step at a time. Pretty much like the OP.

Step 11.
Secure the latches to the bumper and place the bumper back on. Make sure everything lines up and you have just finished the install!



Step 12.
No more floppy bumper. These pictures were taken a couple of hours outside of Cleveland and Steven is on air ride so his fenders are a little messed up from airing out with wide wheels so if this works on his car then it'll work on yours. Oh and there's my sweet daily in the background of the second picture...



Let me know if you have any questions regarding the install and I'll update the guide if necessary.

 

Nice update showing the RaiderFab near-tire location with the front slot mounting point! My how-to shows using both slots, if you wanted to go that route instead. You'd need slightly different hardware though (including two short studs instead of a short and long), which is shown in that thread. Both routes have been proven:

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...mper-bracket-how-to-for-genpus-complete.4158/

 

Thanks again guys!

****Final Bracket Design has 1 slot near the headlight area for use. Use the back fenderwell area bolt location to install the fenderwell latch pin**** emailraiderfabusa@gmail.com with any questions!****

Brackets are now available any time on the MSO Store!https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?pages/store/

 

pictures no longer come up

 

Working on it now. Should be back shortly. Photobucket sucks
[doublepost=1499186380][/doublepost]Pictures are back up, sorry some of them aren't cropped any more. If I get a chance later today I'll re-crop them. Hopefully Imgur doesn't sell it's soul too.

 

Where did you want installed pics of this posted? I did mine a couple weeks ago. I think you could get rid of the rear slot (the one you taped over), useless for 90%+ of us. and maybe save on production costs in the future. i used the aluminum spacers in the back, nothing in the front. works like a champ.

 

Personally, I like the look of that slot's location more that right by the fender arch. Of course, I had to use that slot because my holes were pre-drilled in my bumper, but if I had to do it again, I'd use both slots again--IMHO, it looks cleaner. Regardless, it's always nice to have installation options.

 

I think spacers are only needed in the back. Will resolve that and the slot. Mounting in the fenderwell area allows a wider area of latches holding it flush. Not sure if it will save $, but may cover the spacer costs we faced.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[doublepost=1499296249][/doublepost]Another pic

 

my next question is what if we only have one latch per side and it is for the head lamp. Would we use the bolt that is removed instead of the stud?

 

Yessir!

 

You have to remove the old black plastic bracket that the bumper cover used to snap into, so you will need both latches or the fender will now be floppy.

 

So stupid question, but where do the springs go?

 

they go on the stud between the bracket and the bumper latch. They are optional. The exposed stud on the front was too short for me to use the spring on, so I only have them on the rear. Pic isn't a speed, but shows how the spring goes

 

Another stupid question, what's the purpose of it? Like this?

 

the weird washer is upside down and needs to be up past the threads on the stud. It's purpose is to help pop the latch off when you push the center button. Totally optional. here is another pic that may help with spring orientation.

 

So am I being retarded here or what? I can't get it any more flush.
[doublepost=1502469809][/doublepost] Maybe my car is retarded and I don't need a spacer?

 

Are you using spacers? if so, take the front spacer off and see what happens

 

Yes I was using a spacer, I edited the post and posted a picture without a spacer. Guess my car is stupid and doesn't need them.

 

I just needed spacers on the rear.